Milady Chapter 20: Chemical Texturizing

Chemical hair texture services

Give you the ability to permanently change the hairs natural wave pattern and offer your client a variety of styling options that would not be possible otherwise

Cuticle

Tough exterior layer of the hair

Cortex

Responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair

pH

An abbreviation used for potential hydrogen

pH scale range

0-14

Neutral

pH of 7

Acidic

pH below 7

Alkaline

pH above 7

Natural pH of hair

4.5-5.5

Chemical texturizers

Raise the pH of hair to an alkaline state in order to soften the hair shaft

Amino acids

Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur

Keratin proteins

Long, coiled polypeptide chains, which in turn are comprised of amino acids

Salt bonds

Hydrogen bonds Can be broken by water, whereas ____ ____ are broken by changes in pH

Hydrogen bonds

Are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling), and they reform as the hair dries or cools

Rod

Size and shape of ___, and method of wrapping, determines size and shape of curl

Concave rods

Most common type of perm rod

Straight rods

Equal on diameter along their entire length or curling area

Loop rod

Aka, circle rod

Double flat wrap

Perm wrap, one end paper placed under and one over strand of hair being wrapped. Both papers extend past hair ends. Provides most control over hair ends, and keeps them evenly distributed over entire length of the rod

Single flat wrap

Similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper placed over top of the hair strand

Panels

All perm wraps begin by sectioning hair into _____.

Base sections

Subsections of panels, the hair is divided into for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section

Mark or break the hair

Caution should be used with on-base placement because additional stress can ________.

Croquignole and spiral

Two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the rod are

Croquignole perm wrap

Wrapped from the ends to the scalp on overlapping concentric layers

Spiral perm wrap

The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of rod

True

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction

Reduction reaction

A reaction In permanent waving that is due to the addition of hydrogen

Reducing agent

Commonly referred to as thio is used in permanent waving solutions

Thioglycolic acid

A colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in perm solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by concentration of thio

Alkaline waves

Aka cold waves, were developed in 1941, have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temp without adding heat

Glyceryl monothioglycolate

The main active ingredient in true acid waves and acid-balanced waving solutions

Permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer

Three separate components of all acid waves

7.8 and 8.2

Most acid waves found in salons today have a pH level between

Acid balanced waves

Modern acid waves, have a 7.0 or neutral pH

Ectothermic waves

Create an ectothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing

Endothermic waves

Activated by an outside heat source, usually. Conventional hood-type hair dryer

Weak or over processed hair

Will be too weak to hold a firm curl

Thio neutralization

Stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form

Hydrogen peroxide

Most common neutralizer

Basic permanent wrap

Aka straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases

Bricklay perm wrap

Similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticable splits, and to blend the flow of the hair

Weave technique

Uses zigzag partings to divide base areas

Double rod wrap

Aka piggy back wrap

Chemical hair relaxing

A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into straightener or smoother form

"Thio"(ammonium thioglycolate) and sodium hydroxide

Two most common types of chemical hair relaxers

Relaxers

Extremely alkaline and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly. Most relaxers contain the same ingredients used in depilatories.

Japanese thermal straightening

Sometimes called reconditioning or TR, combines use of thio relaxer with flat ironing

Hydroxide relaxers

The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all of these

Differently than

Hydroxide relaxers break disulfide bonds --(the same as OR differently than)-- thio relaxers?

Lanthionization

The process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond

Metal hydroxide relaxers

Contain only one component and are used exactly as they are packaged on the container; no mixing is used

Sodium hydroxide relaxers

Commonly called lye relaxers

Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide relaxers

Often advertised and sold as no mix-no lye relaxers

Guanidine hydroxide relaxers

Contain two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use

No-base relaxers

Do not require the application of a protective base cream

Concentration of hydroxide

The difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers parallels the_________.

Sufficiently relaxed strand

Will remain smooth, if the curl returns, continue processing.

Virgin relaxer

1/4in-1/2in away from the scalp

Normalizing lotions

Conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing

Thio relaxer

Do not apply this relaxer or soft curl perm on hair that has been previously treated with hydroxide relaxer