Cosmetology

for restorative arts final

Naturalistic goal

natural, non-cosmetic effect

• color should appear to come from within the skin

Ornamental goal

cosmetic embellishment

• done only if asked to

Ornamental Cosmetics

commercially prepared female makeup

• not used on dead body

Pigments of the skin (3)

Melanin: brown

• is determinative pigment of all races

Carotene: yellow

Blood: red

Complexion

color and texture of skin

Complexion influenced by:

• age

• gender

• health

• degree of exposure to the elements

Affected by: moisture content of superficial tissues

Florid

healthy pink complexion

Ruddy

red complexion

Sallow

yellowish complexion

Swarthy. dusky

brownish complexion

Complexion deviations

abnormal skin colorings

Bronze complexion deviations

Bronze: copper looking

can be caused by:

• addisions disease

• hodgkins disease

• tuberculosis

• uremic poisoning

Purple (crimson) complexion deviation

can be caused by:

• postmortem stain

• ecchymosis

• purpura

Deep yellow complexion deviation

Caused by:

• jaundice

• uremia

Green complexion deviation

Caused by:

• putrefaction

• green jaundice

Grey complexion deviation

• gangrene

• putrefaction

• formaldehyde gray

Red cosmetic is used for:

• heighten ruddy or florid complexion

• reproduce warn area of the face

• create minor shadows on receding surfaces

brown cosmetics are used for

• supplies dark tones of skin

• darken depressions

Internal coloring method

injection of dyed embalming fluid

• gives skin pinkish tint

  • may appear blotchy if unevenly distributed

External coloring method

application of cosmetics to skin

Cream external colorant

semi-solid consistency

• can be oil or water based

• can be translucent or opaque

Pros of cream colorants

• helps prevent dehydration

• allows for choice of density

• covers discolorations

• covers and mixes with wax

Cons of cream colorant

• can look pasty and fake

• can color hair

• can clump

• easily rubs off

• needs application of powder to dry

• stains clothing

Liquid external colorant

pigment particles dissolved or suspended in a vehicle

• consistency can be thick to thin

• can be translucent or opaque

Pros of liquid cosmetics

• does not cake or clump on skin or hair

• does not easily rub off

• does not give pasty appearance

• quickly dries

• easily removed from hair (not dried)

cons of liquid colorant

• limited color choice

• does not cover discolorations

• dehydrating if alcohol based

• does not cover wax (besides airbrush)

• can collect in deep pores and recessed areas (can make them look older)

Powder cosmetics

fine, loose particles of solid pigment

• used to dry and set cream cosmetics

• makes cosmetic adhere to skin better

• tinted powder can be used to add additional color

Transparent external colorants

skin can be seen through cosmetic

translucent external colorants

does not cause sufficient diffusion to eliminate perception of images behind it

• does not hide dark discolorations

Opaque external colorants

allows no light to pass through

• considered a concealing cosmetic

foundation

complexion cosmetic

• basecoat applied as first layer of cosmetic

blush/rouge

cheek color

• applied to cheeks and other warm areas

Lip color

restores color to mucous membranes

mascara

used to darken eyelashes

eyeshadow

used to color upper eyelid

eyeliner

applied to area where eyelashed meet eyelid

eyebrow pencil

fills in eyebrows

density

thickness of applied cosmetics

• density varies with situation

  • low density (translucent) is best

  • high density (opaque): covering discolorations

cosmetics should be done:

• after dressing

• before hairstyling and casketing

warm areas of the face

• cheeks

• chin

• ears

• mucous membranes

• forehead eminences

• eyelids

Warm areas of hands

• knuckles

• fingernails

• cuticles