midterm textiles quiz

Fibers

obtained from natural sources or synthetic manufacturing

Yarns

made by twisting fibers into long strands

Fabric

made my weaving or knitting yarns

Clothes

made by assembling fabrics.

Weaving

Fabric construction method that interfaces two or more sets of yarns

Knitting

Fabric construction method that forms a series of loops of yarn

Lace

patterned, openwork, delicate fabric

Netting

mesh material with open spaces

Non-woven

Fabrics formed without using weaving or knitting processes, but instead through methods
that entangle or bond fibers thermally, mechanically or chemically

Leather/hides

Animal skins with hair removed

Fur

Processed animal skins that still has its hair

Finishing

Additional chemical or mechanical treatment applied to change fabric’s appearance or properties (Dyeing, printing, sizing, mercerizing, softening, brushing, sueding, pleating, embroidery etc)

Warp yarns

Run down the length of the fabric, along the straight grain. This is the strongest direction of the fabric and offers minimal stretch

Weft Yarns

Run across the width of the fabric, in the cross grain direction. Less strong direction of fabric, but offers a bit more stretch

Selvedge

Fabric edge along the length

Bias Grain

Diagonal across straight and cross grain, provides maximum stretch, but not very strong.

On grain

Warp and weft yarns are exactly perpendicular to each other

Warp beam

cylinder on which warp yarns are wound

Heddles

Wire eyelets that hold yarn in place

Harness

Frame that holds heddles, which can be raised or lowered to create a shed

Shed

Where weft yarn is inserted

Shuttle

Boat shaped device that holds the weft yarn and carries it back and forth

Reed

Comb like device that pushes weft into place

Cloth beam

cylinder on which finished woven fabric is wound

Fabric Face

Side of fabric facing up

Griege Fabric

Fabric that has not been dyed or finished

Sizing

Compounds applied to yarns to improve luster, weight, smoothness or strength

Thread Count

Number of warps (ends) X weft (picks) in 1" sq of fabric Higher the thread count > more yarns per
inch > higher the fabric quality

Plain Weave

Most basic weave, where weft passes under and over alternate warp, forming a criss-cross construction

Basket Weave

2 or more yarns are bundled together and woven in warp and weft directions

Ribbed Weave

Thicker yarn used for warp, and relatively thinner as weft- creating ribbed effect

Seersucker Weaver

two warp beams are used- one held at normal tension, and one held loose. As fabric is woven, loose warp creates permanent puckered effect that cannot be ironed

Twill Weave

Has visual diagonal lines, stronger than plain weaves

Right hand twill

diagonal direction runs from lower left to upper right, most common

Left Hand Twill

diagonal direction runs from lower right to upper left

Satin Weave

Created by allowing weft yarns to float over 4 or more warp yarns

Dobby Weave

More complicated weave woven on a multi harness loom, Characterized by small, repeated geometric patterns. Often has long floats, therefore subject to snagging

Jacquard Weave

Creates beautiful and complicated patters, using jacquard looms. loom originally used punch cards to control each warp yarn independently.

Pile Weave

Characterized by raised loops (uncut pile) or tufts (cut pile) .Created by 3 sets of yarn - warp, weft
and pile yarn.

Felting

Non-woven sheet of matted materials. Fibers are condensed and tangled by combination of heat, moisture, and pressure. No bonding adhesive is used

Macreme

Knotting chords together by hand

Neoprene

synthetic rubber

Colorants

agents that produce colors (dyes, pigments)

Mordants

Dyer carrier’ helps dye adhere to fabric and improve color fastness

Dye

Coloring matter absorbed into textile fibers via chemical bonding, dissolved into solvent

Pigment

Adheres to fabric with binder, Do not dissolve in water or absorbed by fiber.

Natural Dye

Poor colorfastness. Need mordants for improving color fastness.

Mauveine

First synthetic dye created by William Perkin

Synthetic dyes for cellulosic fibers (cotton, rayon, hemp)

Reactive dyes, Vat dyes, Azoic dyes

Synthetic dyes for protein fibers (wool, silk, mohair, feathers)

Acid dyes, Chrome dyes

Synthetic dyes for synthetic fibers (polyester, acrylic, nylon)

Disperse dyes, Cationic dyes

Solution Dyeing

Dyeing done at pre-fiber stage, pigments added before fiber extrusion. Only for synthetic fibers

Fiber dyeing

Color added at fiber stage, before spinning. Relatively expensive

Yarn Dyeing

dyeing occurs after fibers have been made into yarn

Fabric Dyeing

most commonly used in the industry, a.k.a piece dyeing

Garment dyeing

finished product is dyed

Resist dyeing

creates a pattern and a ground by keeping dye from certain fabric or fibers

Batik

type of resist dyeing that uses wax as a resist

Ikat

type of resist dyeing by tying warp yarns to create patterns

Discharge dyeing

A negative image can be created on dark color fabric by removing color

Courses

horizontal rows of knits

Wales

vertical columns of knits

Gauge

Number of stiches per unit width across knitted fabric. Higher gauge implies more stiches per inch, implies finer texture

Weft knitting

fabric is knitted horizontally along courses

Jersey

a.k.a plain knit, economical to produce, tends to ladder

Fleece

jersey with thick and heavy surface achieved with piles or by napping

Ponte de roma

double knit fabric, smooth on both sides, used for structured clothing like dress pants and jackets

jacquard knit

Patterned jersey knits created with stitch or color variation, Float loops at back may snag

Velour knit

Jersey knit with cut pile on purl side

Rib Knit

Jersey knit with alternate knit and purl stitches (creating vertical stripe effect)

Warp Knit

Fabric is knitted vertically along wales.Yarn loops run along fabric length. Complex type of knit.Fabric is
less likely to unravel.

Tricot knit

A type of warp knit characterized by its smooth texture and ability to stretch in both directions, often used for lingerie and sportswear.

Tulle knit

Kind of tricot knit fabric, Fine, hexagonal mesh structure Used for millinery, trimmings,
veils, embrroidery to form lave, and dresses with voluminous transparency

Raschel Knit

Similar to tricot knit fabric, but available in wide variety of patterns and textures, often with 3D effects.
Made of textured yarns. Often resemble crocheted fabrics or woven fabrics

Flatbed knitting machine

Knitting machine that produces flat fabric, warp and weft knitting

Circular knitting machine

Knit machines produces tubular fabrics. Mainly weft knits. Typically faster production than flat knitting, but fabric is more likely to get twisted because of circular motion

Fully fashioned

Complete garment is made by increasing or decreasing number of stiches to create desired shape.

Cut n sew

Knitted fabric is cut to desired shape and sewn together.

Fair Isle

knit style using 5-7 colors used to create complex horizontal patterns

aran

knit style characterized by 3-d motifs

argyle

knit style with multicolored diamond shaped patterns

Intarsia

Flat knit fabric with intricate patterns. Both sides of fabric are alike