Art + Fashion p1

Giacomo Balla, Suit, 1930

Futurist fashion. like paintings.

forced lines, dynamism, optically distroy boundaries that we assign to clothing, designs deconstruct cloths, attack conservatism of male dress especially suite for being too bourgeouis. futurist. . Wearer with agency insead of clothing metamorphise according to mood, time of day, season, weather, pro war. Agressive.

forbade german colors in favour of Italian ones. Dress as a. couldt get a hotel room. futurist ideas tainted by their support of Muselini and  faschism. infulential for fashion designers.

Marcel Duchamp, Rrose Selavy, 1921

New york Dadaism dressed as Rose Selavy. In new york they wanted to escape the war. less political more conceptual. female Persona. Hat and ferline coat donnated by fellow artist's partner Jermaine. Photo is a composite of people and genders that can only exist in a photo. Duchamp, coat by Jermaine Evelaine, hands of Jermaine. portrait of a trans person.

pun on toast to life. satire of society women used as fashion model used as fashion models. Ironic and playful Gender fluidity composes a complezxity about gender when the roles were strict.

when art stars occur men fem women masc.

 

fashion based on use. 3 types. production dress, wearers profession. protective clothes for hazardous occupations. sport jerseys.

physical exercise important in post revolutionary Russia. PE patriotic.

communist thought Bourgeoise were lazy and unfit. Sport Jersey represented a communization to indicate egalitarian values. ideological communication. everyone on the same team.

sports leveled the playing field. bold colors to be noticed, loosed fitting to encourage running around. ideolical, strengthen physical body and social body (uniformity).

 

Sonia Delaunay, Vest, 1928

clothing extension of painting, living quality, person becomes dynamic and center of attention, shapes change as a person walks around.

she had a boutique had wealthy clientele, combined poetry and dress. cultural hybridity and synchronism, asian, african, middle eastern, traveler. new women.

liberated dress from the academism of the couturiers, she was an independent instead of following fashion houses.

Oskar Schlemmer Triadic Ballet costuemes 1924

 

Bouhouse, School of art craft and design started in Germany who embraces architectural tequniques to embrace unity of the arts through architecture and previously Performance.

used stage to investigate basic elements of space. form color sound, movement, light aspects of people working in arch. looked at mechanisation, combining art and tech in arch lead to this and was a central element of the bouhouse.

mechanical devices in vogue. creating stage persona of machines and robots instead of people . reduced the body to major geometric forms. like puppets. bright colors of the costumes. influence of the circus \/ toys.

mobile architecture. triadic, 3 parts. motivated by remote control. stage person. costumes. triatic 3 dancer, 3 part of symph, dance, costume, music.

Meret Oppenheim Glove 1985

 

women surrealist.

leather clove with veins of interior body on the exterior of the glove. cultivates strangeness and enstrangement. objects with life and energy.

materisals as charged entities unto themselves. skin covers internal workings unto the body. transperant skin. human animal transfer, dead cow leather to live human flesh.

clothing as a second skin but instead of protecting and hiding body, exposing it and making it transparent as if the body is morphing into somehting else.

Atsuko Tanaka, Electric Dress, 1956

 

Japan. Gutain Group. movement where painters and sculpters creations of art in public. actualisation fo spirit and matter. performative acts. raw matertial, artists bodies. everyday world industrial materials. early works in new media and tech art. used artist bodies

fluorescent and incandescent lights. light bulb. cords lights , switches. lights were dynamic. updates kimono to active lights, electricity, live entity, living and tech, early cyborg, mech and bilogical.

tech is visible on purpose for this. artist in the dress. made to be worn but you cant move. containing. adopting tech but be confined by it.

female member of the movement.

Yoko Ono, Cut Piece, 1965

 

performance on a stage, theatricality, artist kneeling on stage dressed in normal clothes w scissors. invited audience to cut a piece of clothes. clothing metaphor for the body and fragility. cutting clothes like cutting skin.

scissors fashion making tool. but here used o destroy clothing. feminist activism. violation of womens bodies, by male gaze and weapnized gaze. time of civil rights. calls forth objectification and dehumabizsation.

tests the aggressiveness of audience. some are gentre. some are agressive to decloth her, predatory. so called passivity. may be stoic. where sitting still draws attention. Rosa park. Japanese on American Soil. Gathered and put into camps and cut off during war. clothing shredded during WW2. Sense of agency as she sets the parameters and conclusion.

Helio Oiticica Parangole, 1966

 

Brazilian. Series of fabric cultures. bright colors to be worn to become mobile sculptures. dancing inherit act while wearing.

He collaborated with Samba school to work with them. Draws upon festive and Carnval. kinetic and dynamism, interactive. He talks about how people have an identity shift when people wear this.

They take up public space. gender neutral gay positive he is gay. political edge, brazil in 1960s, Gov dictatorship no free speaach no fun or leisure of the body.

verbal statements couldn’t be made. celebration of freedom as a political statement.

Suzanne Lacy, In Mourning and in Rage 1979

 

Performance. clothes public spectable as activism. costumes involve long black hoods and red drape cloak  around shoulders. in line on LA steps of city hall. designed to get the publics attention and so are striking. outfits designed to target media. to get publics attention. triggorred by coverage of hillside strangler in area. serial murdere recently killd 10th murder. protest ploice innefectiveness. not upfront and transparent about the killings this and other violence against women. women denied info to protect themselves with lack of informations. Used this to inform people about what could be done to save women and change police practices for improvement. for progressive movement. dramiatic monumental prescences. took what would have been private whichis victimization and made it into public record memorialize raped and killed eomen. space for them to engae in consiousness raising and networking. multiple goals. impact social progress. save women change police practices. towering figues monumental presences cant be ignored. infuenceb by sufforogette parades where women advocated for women to get the right to vote by dress in costumes and unconvet behavoiur like smoking in public. 

Silvia Kolbowski windows of Harry Winston Inc, 1990

original jewels on the left, employee taking it down and returning an immage of a similar jewel. similar to backlit photos. store tech. retail system displaying  functioning. ritual. security as a form of performance. conceptual project exposing how retail and marketing operate. to leave them overnight is too tempting. photograph is supposed to be sempting. temptation is accesptable but there is a line.

Barbara Kruger, Selfrideges installation, 2006

New york based artist. critic of media. commissioned be a strore. how critical and effective could this be. her syle of photograph. using. subve anti advertising. reconfigure slogans to accusatory. russion productavists. her work reflects mass b=meida back upon itself. culture

and idiologty as well as power. directly speaks to the viewer. interpolates viewer.  Message of a promois of transformation of consumerism. are these ironic are shoppers in on the crit, does it change anything. visualize subliminal messages. humerous intervention.

Tom Sachs, Chanel Guillotine (breakfast nook) 1998

symbol of french revolution. violence. into bourgois furniture. violence of revolution became normalized like breakfast. similar to an industrial form of making clothing. tests the power of a brand. can it convert anything into something desireable. fashion and faschism relate. implicit violence in each. fashion companies enlist a conformity. there is a forcefuless in consumerism. cosmetic companies a part of patrolliam industry. they produced chemicals used in makeup and amunition. directors were Nazi sympathizers. fashion workd intimatley connected to faschism. this contiues as fashion uses 3rd world sites. jux of consumerism and repression.

Art Guys, The Clothes Make the Man, 1999

Sylvie Fleury, Agent Provocateur, 1995

French artist. series of shopping bags on a floor. conspicuous consumption. artist went into the stores and purchased smth and did this. seeing together, bags show diff in bags. logo store title. differences in design quality and weight. others fold over and are of lesser status. more expensive bags take up more space. cheapness of bags show different class positions. carrying around a bag is free advertising. power of a brand giving u an identity. I shop therefore I am. title, undocover police agent insights illegal acts to discredit the position of the group. She becomes that as she creates this work.

Surasi Kusolwong, Golden Ghost, 2014

From Thailand. pulled together thousands of materials some garbage some new. hid 12 gold necklaces. ppl would weigh through them and conduct a treasure hunt. like a playground. relaxing. some more thorough than others. fluffy material, fable lure of glod. golde is purity, rare, value. jux by the act of searching like your looking for a deal or something in salvation army. modern capitalism. garbage to gold. desperate ppl in 3rd world stiuation. title, is anything realy there, is the scam that gold doesnt truly bring what you want.

Sarah Charlesworth, Objects of Desire, 1983

conceptual post modern artist. 2 photos. isolate single items of clothing. Gene Harlows dress, right is a set of bondage gear from stomaschism. isdolates decontexualises and forgrounds 2 distinct cultural items, dress and bondage gear. fashion opperates on conventions. both bodies removed. no identity. isolates clothing. implicates elements of exess and hypersexuality. right, dress is power, beauty and charm, lit and printed in a sculptural way. bodage, glamourous, shiny. equivilence of glamour and bondage. powerful glamouress dress and powerless one. dress is object of desire. ppl want to be glamouress hollywood star. misunderstands bondage. agency in bondage. inverse relationship. left,  trap of objectification and sexualisation, person wearing it overlooked.

Karen Kilimnik, High Cheek Bones, 1993

celebrity worship. Kate moss in shoot with top hat. level of critique through being a fan. accepts celebrity aura. transforms through idiosynchrocies. amateaur. innocence naivatay. showing way of working through by processing through narration. sepperation between original and copy.

Hans Haacke, The right to Life, 1979

First gen of institiuition crit in advertisment. corporation against itself. based on an adeverstiment. Breck girl, opular in 1970s.

words of corporation against itself. all american average quintensential female icon for middle class sensibility. ppublic face of product for empowerment and beauty. shampoo. corporation carried lack of respect for woment manufat=ctiong process abusiva and harmful to the women. submit to unhealthy working conditions, harmed their chances of haveing children. get a lower paying job or become sterilised. dark glamour.

Melanie Pullen, Main Hall, 2005

Photographer. take haute coutour fashion. stage prof models in crime scenes. recreates death scenes with models in haute coutour clothing to restage and reimagin the death. uses stories and photos of scene to restage it. finore dramatic lighting. asque angle, sublime settings. lit compellingly, monumanetal setting. erotisizing death, bordering on mysogony, tests the limit of glamour. can violent acts be glamour. references violences that everyday life brings models. looks at notion of romantic dream. dying young and beautiful. process has environmental damage. compelling and raise issues about fashion and dark glamour.