Oceanography

Flashcards

Crest

Highest point of a wave

Trough

Lowest point of a wave

Wavelength

Distance between two consecutive troughs or crests

Wave Height

Distance from the crest to the trough

Frequency

The reciprocal of the wave period

Fetch

The amount of open water wind blows through

Tsunami

Large wave caused by earthquake or volcanic eruption

Wave period

The time it takes for two consecutive crests or troughs to pass a point

Rip Current

An area of rapid seaward-flowing water

Longshore transport

The movement of sand and sediments down a beach

Wave reinforcement

When the crests of two waves collide, resulting in a larger wave

Tide

The rhythmic pattern of rising and falling sea surfaces

Gravitational Pull

The force that causes tides, primarily from the Moon and Sun

Gravitational Pull from the moon and sun

What causes tides?

Spring Tide

Tides with a large difference between high and low tide, occurring during full and new moons

Neap Tide

Tides with a small difference between high and low tide, occurring when the Sun and Moon are at right angles

Semidiurnal

Tidal pattern with two high and two low tides of approximately the same height each day

Flood Tide

Rising tide, water moving toward the shore

Ebb tide

Falling tide, water rushing back toward the sea

Slack water

Period of time between flood and ebb tides

Tidal Range

Difference in water level between successive high and low tides

Amplitude

The vertical distance from crest to average surface level or still-water level

Wave direction

The direction in which a wave is traveling

Wave speed

The speed of the wave in a certain direction

Wave frequency

The number of wave crests that pass a fixed point per unit of time

Wave period

The time it takes for one complete wave to pass a fixed point

Wavelength

The distance between two consecutive crests or troughs