Textiles Flashcards

Flashcards for textiles revision

Staples

Short fibres eg all natural fibres

Filament fibres

Long continuous lengths made from manufactured or synthetic fibres eg silk

Yarns

Made by twisting staple or filament yarns together.

Filament yarns are smooth so not good insulators.

Staple yarns are hairy so good insulators.

Fancy yarns

Yarns made from either or both staple and filament yarns to add interesting textures to fabrics

Bouclé

A fancy yarn meaning curly in French

Slub yarn

Yarn with varying thickness along its length, adding texture

Chenille yarn

Soft and fluffy yarn with fibres sticking out from its core for warmth

Bonded fabrics

Made up of a top fabric glued to a lightweight second fabric to add strength

Quilting

Consists of 3 layers stitched together - top layer, middle sponge layer, and lightweight inner layer. Adds aesthetic appeal, strength, and insulation

Biomimicry

When designers take inspiration from nature

Stella McCartney

Sustainability is at the forefront of her brand, using recycled materials and tailoring.

She uses recycled materials where possible and her signature style is feminine lingerie.

She produces high quality fashion with low enviromental impact that enpowers women.

Laura Ashley

Known for long Victorian-inspired dresses and expanded business to coordinate a range of natural fabrics.

She utilises prints in her designs.

Progressive bundle production

Product parts are organised in bundles and passed along the assembly line for task completion.

Line production

Machines are set up in a straight line and work is organised in bundles

Cell production

Cells may produce entire products or specialist parts

Fashion forecasting

Market researchers who predict future fashion trends years in advance

Trend setters

Individuals with a strong sense of style who trigger new trends

Image makers

Specialize in creating looks for clients or corporate images

Shape memory alloys

Alloys that can return to their original shape when heated

They have excellent elasticity.

An example is nitinol.

Its used on braces wires, stents for veins and bone staples.

Polymorph

Thermoforming polymer used as a modelling medium, soft when heated and solidifies on cooling

Photochromic

Change colour as a result of change in light intensity of UV

Eg sunglasses.

Thermochromic

Change colour in response to heat

They can be used for food packaging to indicate when an ideal temperature has been reached.

Used in sports clothing.

Micro-encapsulation

Microscopic particles or droplets applied to materials containing oils, treatments or fragrances released through skin contact

Biometrics

The study of the structure and function of living things

Biomimicry

Takes inspiration from the natural world in order to design sustainable solutions

For example the spurs on the burdock thistle were the inspiration for velcro.

Conductive fibres and yarns

Flexible fibres and threads made from carbon, steel, and silver that can conduct electricity

Wearable electronics

Electronic devices integrated into textiles that can communicate wirelessly

They rely on conductive fibres to conduct electricity.

Heat storage materials

Materials that change from one state to another by absorbing, storing, and releasing heat

Sun protective clothing

Closely woven fabrics that block harmful UV rays

Breathable materials

Fabrics with a permeable membrane that manages the flow of moisture

Gore tex is an example.

Microfibres

Fine engineered fibres with specific properties for set purposes

Tactel,Modal and Tencel are all microfibres.

Market pull

A new product is developed as a result of market demand.

Consumers always want upgraded products.

Product life cycle

Introduction - product lands into the market

Growth - sales steadily increase

Maturity - sales reach their peak

Decline - sales drop off

Obsolescence - when a product doesnt sell because its no longer desired

Obsolescence

When a product no longer sells or sells at a discounted rate because it's no longer desired

CAD

Computer aided design

CAM

Computer aided machinery

Finishes

Chemically / chemically applied to a product to enhance aesthetic properties, prolong fabric life or improve functionality.

Colouring and surface decoration

Physical finishes that change the appearance of fabric e.g. dyeing, printing or painting

Calendering

Mechanical finish that smooths and flattens fibres to give a lustrous finish

Embossing

Same process as calendering but it leaves an engraved design on the fabric

Glazing

Similar to calendering, but resins or stiffeners are added for a more permanent finish

Mercerising

Chemical finish that causes fibres to swell and shrink leaving a lustrous fabric, only applies to natural fibres

Brushing

Fabric is exposed to wire brushes that raise the fibres to give it a fluffy appearance to improve insulation

Stain resistance

Chemical finish that prevents stains from permanently discolouring fabrics

Eg teflon and scotch-guard.

Flame retardancy

Chemical finish that prevents fabrics from burning or burning too quickly

Moth proofing

Uses a chemical process that repels moths and their larvae and stops them feeding off and destroying wool fibres

Crease resistance

Chemical finish where resin is applied to stop fabrics from creasing

Water proofing

Chemical finish where silicone is sprayed onto the fabric to stop water from penetrating through the fabric, not a permanent finish. Coating fabrics with PVC or PVA does make it waterproof

Shower proofing

Chemical finish that will only repel a very light exposure to moisture

Shrink resistance

Chlorine based chemical finish which stops fabric from shrinking by stopping scales on wool fibres from locking together

Anti-static finish

Chemical finish that makes fabrics more comfortable by stopping electrostatic charge

Hot notch markers

Markers used to transfer critical points on a template

Fabric spreading machines

Machines that automatically lay out several layers of fabric on long cutting tables

Hand cutting templates

Straight, round or band knives are used for this when laser cutting is not an option

Automated die cutters

Used to cut small complex shapes from small layers of fabric

eg small pieces found in bras

Laser cutters

Can cut intricate shapes in fabric that cannot be done by hand

Additive manufacture

Used to print 3D shapes, layer by layer, to create a prototype or finished product

Stock forms

Readily available to designers, manufacturers etc. Refers to the width of the fabric based on the width of the loom it was made from.

Standard widths include

90cm , 115cm, 150cm, 200cm, 240cm.

Common names for stock are velvet, denim and jersey.

For home sewers, textile fabrics are bought off the role in 10m lengths or multiples of 10.

Threads

Sew fabrics together- polyester thread is strong and suits most purposes. Glossier thread is used for decorative purposes and conductive threads are used for functional reasons

Trims

Can be decorative e.g. lace, ribbon, braids etc. Can also be functional e.g. tapes, cords, elastic etc

Dyeing

Fabric is fully immersed in water containing the dye which changes the fabrics colours

Natural dyes work well on natural fibres but synthetic fibres need chemical dyes.

Dyes need to include mordant to ensure the dye fixes to the fabric permanently.

Types of dye

• Piece - a length of fabric is dyed one colour.

• Dip - a part of fabric is dyed which causes a gradual effect.

• Random - small sections of the fabric are dyed. No regularity to the design.

• Batik - hot melted wax is applied in pattern then immersed in dye. The wax resists the dye.

Painting

• Felt tip - the specialist felt pens draw directly on fabric and it needs to be heat fixed.

• Fabric paint - specialist paint needs to be heat fixed.

• Silk paints - paints give a watery effect. They can be used with a gutta outliner which the paint cannot pass through. 

• Dimensional - paint applied through a piping tube to give a raised effect.

Screen printing

Involves the use of screens to apply a pattern to the fabric

Roller printing

Similar to screen printing but the rollers are engraved with the design and leave the pattern on the fabric

Discharge printing

Works with screen printing but a bleaching agent is used to destroy some colour so the design is paler

Inkjet transfer

Also referred to as heat transfer. Works in the same way as an ordinary printer but with specialist paper

Polymers

Fibres that have a molecular structure made up of smaller units bonded together

Thermosetting polymers

Can be heated and formed into a specific shape but on cooling, these polymers cannot be reheated or reshaped making them difficult to recycle

• Clips and buckles can be made by this.

• Plugs on electrical equipment are made from thermosetting polymers.

Thermoforming polymers

Can be softened by heating and formed into a required shape. On cooling, they retain the new shape and can be reheated and reshaped to make recycling possible.

Polyester, acrylic and nylon work well in the process because they won't melt.

PVC, polythene and polystyrene are also thermoforming polymers but aren't as widely used in fashion garments

Tensile strength

Refers to the force needed to break a fibre

Elasticity

The extent to which a fibre will stretch before breaking and how well it recovers

Absorbency

The fibres ability to take up or soak in moisture without feeling wet

Durability

The fibre of fabrics ability to withstand wear and tear when subject to friction

Insulation

The ability to trap air and retain heat to act as an insulator

Flammability

How easy a fibre or fabric burns

Water repellency

The ability to repel water

Anti static

Static is the electrostatic charge that builds up through some fabrics

Resistant to acid and bleach

The ability to resist damage through exposure to acid or bleach

Resistant to sunlight

Ability to reflect UV rays to prevent damage

Weaving

The interlacing of two sets of yarns at right angles

Warp yarns

Yarns that run the length of the fabric

Weft yarns

Yarns that run across the fabric

Twill weave

Identified by diagonal lines and is strong

Satin weave

Has a very shiny side caused by the warp yarns floating over the weft yarns. It drapes well but snags easily

Pile weave

Has a raised surface caused by the loops of yarn that stands up. This can be cut to create plush fabrics

Weft knitting

Formed by rows of loops interlocking horizontally across the fabric. It's made from one continuous line, unravels easily and ladders or runs if cut

It stretches easily but can loose shape and its made by machine / hand.

Warp knitting

Formed from yarns interlocking vertically along the length of the fabric. It's difficult to unravel and doesn't ladder when cut

• It has stretch but still holds its shape well. 

• It lies flat when cut and can only be made by machine.

Non woven fabrics

Made directly from fibres and are cheap to manufacture, cheaper to use because there's no grain, but are weaker than knitted or woven fabric

Felted fabric

Made from wool. The scales on wool fibre matt together when exposed to heat, moisture and mechanical action

Needle felts consist of synthetic fibres matted together mechanically using barbed needles.

Bonded fabrics

Have a top fabric that is laminated to a thin layer of lightweight woven fabric using adhesive eg faux leather.

Laminated fabrics

Consist of two or more layers of fabric held together either by adhesives or a thin layer of thermoplastic film

Gore - tex is an example that has a breathable hydrophilic membrane.

Gore - tex is used for high performance clothing because it lets out moisture but repels wind and rain.

Geo-textiles

Permeable woven or bonded, natural or synthetic fibres. They are used with soil to support drainage and protection against erosion

Aramids

Kevlar has excellent heat and corrosion resistance and high tensile strength. Withstands extreme conditions, bullet proof and resistant to a knife attack.

Nomex will withstand extreme conditions.

Its resistant to heat and flames.

Global production and their effects on cultures and people.

• Manufacturing affects society and people's moral and ethical beliefs.

• Global manufacturing gives consumers lots of choice, but at a cost to the environment and jobs in western society. 

• Some manufacturing companies have more ethical approaches and treat workers with decent wages and working conditions. 

• Socially responsible businesses also support environmental causes and openly disclose costs.

Weaving and knitting

• Weaving and knitting are the two types of fabric construction. 

• Woven fabrics are more stable.

• Knitted fabrics have the ability to stretch. 

• The properties depend on the tightness of construction.

Plain weave

Strong and stable

Strength

The higher the number of interlacing yarns, the stronger the fabric.

Weight

Fabric construction and thickness of yarn affect the weight of a fabric.

Cost of fabrics

• The cost of a fabric depends on its width, fibre content, type of weave and finishes. 

• In industry fabrics and components are bought in bulk so they are cheaper than what individuals can buy in a fabric shop. 

• The cost of a product is based on the cost of all raw materials. 

When calculating the cost of material for the product, you should consider: 

• Bias cutting of the template increases waste. 

• What's the most economical fabric to use? 

• How templates should be laid out. 

• Pattern matching.