Material Culture in History Final Exam Review

chiton

garment worn in Ancient Greece, comprising a large rectangle of linen draped around the body, held at the shoulders with brooches and under the bust with a girdle

toga

a garment worn by male Roman citizens, comprising a semicircle piece of wool cloth draped around the body

peplos

a woman's garment made from a rectangle or tube of fabric folded around the body, with an overhang above the waist, and held in place by brooches and a belt

jerkin

a close-fitting jacket for men, worn over the doublet, and usually sleeveless, but with "wings" over the armholes

Mantua

a woman's gown, originally with an unboned bodice and an overskirt drawn back to show the petticoat, later becoming more structured, worn over wide panniers

breeches

in medieval times, the upper part of men's long hose; later, men's fitted pants ending at the knee

codpiece

initially a flap at the fork of men's long hose or trunk hose to shield the crotch; in the 16th century ________ were padded and protected from the hose

stomacher

a stiff, triangular panel, often heavily embroidered, worn over the chest and stomach, at the front of an open bodice

panniers

also known as side hoops, these were pads or frames attached to the hips and hold the skirt out at the sides; they evolved into large oblong hoops

doublet

a close-fitting padded jacket worn over the shirt, usually by men; _______ could have a buttoned front

ruff

a detachable pleated collar in linen and/or lace starched into shape and sometimes supported underneath

farthingale

an underskirt with wicker, whalebone, or rag hoops sewn in to hold a top skirt in a particular shape

justaucorps

a man's knee-length coat, close-fitting on the body but with flared skirts, and with large turned-back cuffs

cravat

a neckcloth for men, said to have originated in Croatia, today made from patterned fabric (usually silk), with a pleated section to go around the neck and tucked into the open neckline of a shirt

bustle

a metal frame or padded shapes worn under a woman's dress at the back to support the top of the skirt

the gay nineties

period of history referring to the 1980s associated with the Gibson girl

belle époque

a period of high artistic or cultural development preceding WWI

the gilded age

a period of economic growth as the US jumped to the lead in industrialization ahead of Britain (similar to the Industrial Revolution)

Edwardian era

corresponds to the reign of King Edward VII in Great Britain, whose short-lived governance followed Queen Victoria's long reign (1901-1919); consisted of elegance & luxury among the rich

hourglass silhouette

wide bust, narrow waist, wide hips

s-shape silhouette

silhouette that, when viewed from the side, mimics the shape of the letter "s" (using an s-bend corset that forces the model to be slightly leaned forward with padding on the butt [somewhat the first draft of the bustle])

mono-bosom

the pigeon-breasted shape of a blouse

leg-o-mutton sleeve

a sleeve that is very full from the shoulder to the elbow & fitted from elbow to wrist (also called gigot sleeve)

boater hat

stiff straw hat with flat-topped crown, straight brim, and habana of Petersham, or grosgrain ribbon, for casual summer wear

bloomers

baggy knickerbockers worn by women for cycling & other sports; also loose knee-length women's underpants; invented & named after Mrs. Amelia Bloomer

cycling for women

became commonly accepted that cycling was a pastime which women could participate in as well as men

spats

cloth or leather coverings for the uppers of men's shoes, worn by the military & as formal wear

gaiters

a garment similar to leggings, worn to cover or protect the ankle and lower leg

knickers

loose-fitting trousers gathered at the knee or calf

mail-order catalogs

catalog of products that can be ordered through the mail and allowed women to keep up with fashion trends without traveling to Paris

gibson girl

a young woman typifying the fashionable ideal of the late 19th & early 20th centuries

Charles Frederick Worth

English fashion designer who was known for popularizing the bustle & designing crinoline gowns

tea gowns

a semi formal gown of fine materials in graceful flowing lines worn especially for afternoon entertaining at home

motoring

to travel in a car

duster

a light, loose-fitting, long coat that was worn by women who went motoring to prevent dust and dirt from getting on their dresses

cartwheel hat

a hat with. wide-brimmed circular or saucer-shaped design that typically has a low crown

tailor-made

a term for garments made by a tailor to fit a specific person; in particular, garments for men or masculine-style clothing for women

cottage loaf hairdo

modeled after a cottage loaf and displays a bun situated on the crown of a full pompadour

art nouveau

a style of decorative art, architecture, & design that was characterized by intricate linear designs & flowing curves on natural forms

Paul pioret

French fashion designer known as the "King of Fashion" who freed women from corsets and introduced Harem pants to women's fashion

hobble skirt

a long, slim skirt that was very narrow at the ankles, and sometimes included a decorative band at the knees

harem pants

loose, baggy pants for women, gathered at the ankles and worn under a tunic; inspired by Eastern dress & the costumes of Ballets Russes

Mariano Fortuny

fashion designer known best for his dress & textile designs

Madeleine Vionnet

woman famous for pioneering the revolutionary "bias-cutting" technique

bias-cut

a diagonal across the grain of fabric, at 45 degrees to the warp & weft; cutting on the bias can enable a garment to stretch

straw hat riots

a riot in 1922 that occurred in NY at the end of the summer as a result of men wearing straw hats past the unofficial date that was deemed socially acceptable

the triangle shirtwaist factory fire

killed 146 New Yorkers in 1911, and stemmed from poor working conditions that led to strikes & changes in work conditions (probably caused by a cigarette being thrown into a basket of fire)

the titanic

the famous cruise ship that sank in 1912 after hitting an iceberg in the Atlantic Ocean

Burberry Trench Coat

a design born from function to protect the military during WWI

war crinoline

this style featured wide, full mid-calf length skirts, and was described as practical (for enabling freedom of walking & movement)

denim (de nimes)

a cotton twill fabric made of one colored thread & one white thread, used to make work clothes such as jeans

Isadora Duncan

dancer & choreographer who took fashion inspiration from Ancient Greece, wearing Greek tunics often

the Spanish Flu

influenza that caused the pandemic in 1918

the age of chic

a combination of feminine & "modern" industrial inspired designs, also referred to as art deco

roaring 20s

period of rapid economic growth & social change during the 1920s in the US, called "roaring" because of the exuberant, freewheeling popular culture of the decade

the jazz age

the 1920s in the US characterized as a period of carefree hedonism, wealth, freedom, & youthful exuberance, reflected in the novels of writers such as F. Scott Fitzgerald

the Charleston

a lively dance of the 1920s that involved turning the knees inward & kicking out the lower legs

suffragettes

women seeking the right to vote through organized protest

flappers

fashionable young women intent on enjoying themselves and flouting conventional standards of behavior

plus fours

knickerbockers with a puffed overhang ("plus four inches") at the knees; notably worn by golfers and popularized by British King Edward VIII

Oxford bags

very wide, baggy pants for men, often associated with students at Oxford University, UK; revived for both sexes in the 1970s

bob haircut

a short to medium length haircut, in which the hair is usually cut straight around the head at about where the jaw is, but no longer than shoulder-length

Ziegfeld follies

a series of elaborate theatrical revue productions on Broadway in NYC

cloche hat

close-fitting hat for women, with a slightly flared brim giving a bell shape; especially fashionable in the 1920s

harlem renaissance

a cultural, social, & artistic movement that emerged in the early 20th century, centered in the Harlem neighborhood of NYC, celebrating African American culture & identity

duke ellington

highly influential American composer, pianist, & bandleader, best known for his contributions to jazz music music, especially during the Harlem Renaissance, where he helped elevate the genre and showcase its cultural significance

cab calloway

American bandleader, singer, & all-around entertainer known for his exuberant performing style & for leading one of the most highly regarded big bands of the swing era

Charlie Chaplin

an English comic actor, filmmaker, & composer who rose to fame in the era of silent film

rudolph valentino

nicknamed The Latin Lover, was an Italian actor based in the United States who starred in several well-known silent films

beaver coats

beaver coats & fur trims were worn

art deco

an artistic style that emerged in Paris in the 1920s, the name deriving from the 1925 Exhibition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs, it influenced many areas of art & design, including fashion, and featured streamlines shapes inspired by aerodynamic machines, and geometric designs

coco chanel

French fashion designer and businesswoman who is famous for her timeless designs, trademark suits & little black dresses

louise brooks

an American film actress during the 1920s noted for her seemingly effortless incarnation of corrupt sensuality in silent-picture roles during the 1920s

Clara bow

an American actress who rose to stardom during the silent film era of the 1920s & successfully made the transition to "talkies" in 1929

Josephine baker

American-born French, dancer, singer, & actress who symbolized the beauty & vitality of Black American culture, and she was the first black woman to star in a major motion picture

Joan crawford

an American actress who started her career as a dancer in traveling theatrical companies before debuting on Broadway, she built an image as a nationally known flapper by the end of the 1920s

talkies

a movie with a soundtrack, as distinct from a silent film

prohibition

the prevention by law of the manufacture & sale of alcohol, especially in the US between 1920 & 1933

the Stock Market Crash

a sharp decline in the US stock market values in 1929 that contributed to the Great Depression of the 1930s

flour sack or feedbag clothing

flour sacks were worn as clothing because of hardship; the flour companies heard about this & began to produce feed bags with prints on them

marlene dietrich

German actress who wore men's clothes (like a tuxedo)

Jean Harlow (the blonde bombshell)

the original blonde bombshell who had a pale powdered face, with red lips & a beauty mark that was drawn in a different spot every time (her signature); she also bleached her hair using really dangerous chemicals

elsa schiaparelli

created trompe l'oeil sweaters (knitwear used to trick the eye), shocked the world with her "shocking pink" line, created unique hats (like a high heel), & her collab with Salvador Dali led to her lobster dress

surrealism

avant-garde movement in art & literature which sought to release the creative potential of the unconscious mind, for example by the irrational juxtaposition of images; example: Schiaparelli's high heel hat (object is removed from its expected context)

trompe l'oiel

trick of the eye

Letty Lynton

Joan Crawford wore a dress that was nipped in the waist with puffy sleeves that symbolized the return to romanticism in __________ (drama film)

Amelia earhart

created a clothing line of flying apparel for women in aviation

shirley temple

most famous child in the 30s who wore dresses with either a high waistline, or none at all, emphasizing a round tummy like a toddler's (still dresses like a toddler between the ages of 7 and 10); she brought a lot of smiles to people & they did look-alike contests with their children

utility clothing

type of clothing that was a part of a government-run scheme to produce & sell better quality clothing at reasonable prices during WWII

L-85 restrictions

limited the amount of fabric used in clothing to help conserve materials & production time during WWII; made possible the production of at least 15% more garments out of the same yardage cloth

ration fashion

clothes rationing was necessary to permit the government to redouble its resources on the war effort

Claire McCardle

fashion designer who created sporty, casual, and practical easy-to-wear dresses; one example: the pop-over dress, which was a wrap dress that was meant to be popped over pants, bathing suits, or the bare skin

nylon riots

series of disturbances at American stores created by a nylon stocking shortage caused by a shift in manufacturing from using nylon to make tights and using nylon to make parachutes and other war materials

Dior's New Look 1947

this new fashion line was known for its lavish sense of exaggerated femininity & marked a welcome departure from wartime austerity; some women believed that this line was not only impractical but also anti-feminist