MEN'S TOILETRIES

0.3-0.4 mm/day; 0.27mm a day

0.3-0.4 mm/day; 0.27mm a day

The rate of growth of facial hair is up to ? while pubic and armpit hair grows for about ?

PSEUDOFOLLICULITIS BARBAE (RAZOR BUMPS)

This occurs when hairs curve back and re-enter or grow under the skin after shaving, leading to painful inflammation and scarring

skin irritation

The most common problem associated with shaving is

SHAVING

is the act of removing hair from the body, typically using a razor or electric shaver

• blade sharpness

• angle of incidence of blade

• pressure exerted on blade

• beard wetting and lubrication

The degree of irritation is dependent on factors such as

• Preparation of the beard: 4 minutes at 49°C

• Application of a good shaving aid

• Sharpness of blade

• Angle of incidence of blade

• Pressure exerted on the razor

An effective shave is dependent on

LATHERING SHAVING CREAM

creates a rich lather that helps to soften the hairs and prepare the skin for shaving

have some free fatty acid; pH is about 10

Formulations based on stearic acid alone = do not give sufficient lather

Satisfactory ratio 25% Coconut oil = 75% Stearic acid

Ingredients: Stearic acid, Coconut oil, Potassium hydroxide (50%), Sodium hydroxide (100%), Glycerol, Water, and Perfume

Potassium soaps: are more readily soluble than sodium soaps and they help to generate foam more quickly

contain 30-50% of soaps.

Sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide ratio: 1:5

Glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol = 10-15%, a humectant that minimize drying out of the cream and to make the cream slightly softer.

A small percentage of free fatty acids in excess of the calculated amount of alkalis needed for neutralization:

• Ensure complete saponification

• Help to overcome the harshness of soap on the skin

• Act as plasticizer, and to contribute to the characteristic pearlescence of these products.

FORMULATIONS:

• Water: Acts as a solvent and helps create the lather when mixed with other ingredients.

• Stearic Acid: A saturated fatty acid that contributes to the cream's lathering and stabilizing properties.

• Glycerine: A humectant that helps to retain moisture and soften the skin for a smoother shave.

• Coconut Oil or Glycerol Monostearate: These ingredients help provide lubrication and contribute to the creamy texture of the lather.

• Essential Oils or Fragrance: Used for scent or to provide additional skin benefits, such as soothing or antimicrobial properties.

• Potassium Hydroxide or Sodium Hydroxide: These alkaline substances are used in the saponification process to turn fats into soap, contributing to the cream's cleansing properties.

• Aloe Vera, Vitamin E: additional components to soothe and moisturize the skin, reducing irritation and promoting healing post-shave

Certain Disadvantages:

• Potassium Chloride: lead to corrosion in aluminum tubes, and borax is now subject to legislative control

• Electrolytes on Calcium and magnesium: must be avoided because of incompatibility with alkali soaps.

Certain Advantage:

• Sodium borate: have been used both to stabilize the product and prevent infections arising from cuts during shaving.

LATHERING SHAVING STICK

This type of product contains a much higher level of soap (about 80% compared to creams, 35%). Of this 20- 25% are made from coconut or palm kernel oils. Other ingredients are glycerol 5-10% and water 8-10%

The fatty acids ratio and sodium/potassium ratio are similar to those of the lather shaving cream

Soap chips are molded to the desired shape using a soap plodder

AEROSOL SHAVING FOAM

The most popular shaving aid today

Aerosol can is filled with soap solution, the concentrate, together with liquid propellan added under

The propellant (mixture of chlorofluorocarbons) is now replaced by 'ozone-friendly' hydrocarbons (3%). On shaking, it becomes temporarily emulsified in the concentrate (97%)

convenient to use, as it can be dispensed directly onto the skin without the need for additional water or lathering

Filling: 97% of above concentrate, 3% hydrocarbon propellant

POLYMERS such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose are also useful for increasing viscosity (body) of the products.

MENTHOL is widely used at about 0.1% as a cooling agent. One disadvantage is that its strong odor is difficult to mask; and another is that above a certain threshold it causes a burning sensation.

LUBRICANTS such as silicone fluid or mineral oil (at 1-2%).

PRESERVATIVES and COLOR are not normally necessary, but can be added if required.

ALLANTOIN is sometimes used at 0.05% to promote healing of wounds.

AEROSOL BARRIER PACK

Consists of a pressurized can or container with a pouch or bag inside, which holds the product (e.g., shaving foam). The propellant is filled between the can and the pouch, keeping the product separate from the propellant. This is designed to separate the product from the propellant and surrounding air until the moment of use. This prevents any unwanted reaction between concentrate and propellant and allows foam to be dispensed consistently throughout the life of the product without a drop in pressure as the contents are used up.

Preserve the product's quality, extend its shelf life, minimize the need for preservatives, and reduce the risk of contamination

more environmentally friendly than traditional aerosol cans, often using compressed air or nitrogen as propellants

POST FOAMING GEL

is a skincare product applied after shaving to soothe and hydrate the skin

Compartmentalized packaging (barrier pack 13)

The gel, a soap-based system, stabilized with a water-soluble polymer blended with lipophilic ingredients

It contains hydrocarbon with a suitable boiling point

When gel is manipulated between the hands, the heat from the skin, aided by mechanical action, vaporizes the hydrocarbon component transforming the gel into a dense creamy foam

Filling: 97% of above concentrate, 3% isopentane

The dispensing of a clear product is part of a trend for clear products which is indicative of mild skin-caring attributes while the generation into a dense creamy foam conveys rich moisturizing properties.

BRUSHLESS SHAVE CREAM

Oil-in-water emulsions and similar to vanishing creams

The level of oils and emulsifying agents tends to be higher in shaving creams

Have a pH of 7.5-8.5; cause less irritation than later shave creams

Disadvantages:

• more product is required per shave; difficult to rise from razor;

• beard-softening action is less effective due to slower uptake of water;

• leaves skin greasy

SHAVING OILS

They are blends of naturally occurring oils either alone or in combination with emollient ingredients such as fatty, esters, silicone, or hydrocarbon oils to provide a lubricating effect during shaving

Small amount of product is required prior to shaving

They are normally clear liquids so do not provide a marker on the face like a foam or lather.

DRY SHAVING PREPARATIONS

Pre-shaving preparations for use with electric razors

The proportion of razor blade users (wet shavers) to electric razor users (dry shavers) is approximately 70:30

Shaving with an electric razor is efficient if the hair is stiff and dry

removal of the film of perspiration from the face by the use of an alcoholic pre-shave lotion

Alcohol also imparts a mild astringent effect which tightens the skin

It is generally known that electric shavers do not cut the beard as close to the skin as razor blades in wet shaving.

Astringents can be increased using:

• Zinc phenosulfonate

• Aluminium chlorhydrate

• Lactic acid

These preparations sometimes contain emollients to reduce the drag of the cutting head against the skin.

Lubricants: such as Silicone oils, help to reduce the friction between the skin and the blade.

AFTER-SHAVE PRODUCTS

Intended to degreasing effect of soap and surfactant used in shaving products results in the familiar after-shave skin trauma

To Cool and refresh the skin and exert a mild astringent effect

Protect it from bacterial infection while it recovers from the slight injury

Clear lotions: most popular type; 40-50% of ethanol and appropriate level of water

Other ingredients used are various combinations of: propylene glycol (humectant); menthol (cooling agent); witch hazel (astringent); quaternary ammonium compounds (biocides); di-isopropyl adipate (emollient)

AFTER-SHAVE GEL

Form of a gel that can be made by using a combination of a carboxyvinyl polymer (A) and a base (B)

it will hydrate, calm, and cool irritated post-shave skin.

The stiffness of the gel can be altered by varying amounts of the polymer and triethanolamine addition

QUICK-BREAKING AFTER-SHAVE FOAMS

dispensed from the aerosol as a foam which, on application to the skin, breaks easily

They have declined in popularity since they were first introduced

One example of a formulation in which the triclosan acts as an antiseptic

AFTER-SHAVE BALM

useful for shavers with sensitive skins, after-shave products with high levels of alcohol can be more irritating than refreshing.

These are oil-in-water emulsions, similar to vanishing or moisturing creams

They may contain no alcohol, or only a low level

AFTER-SHAVE POWDER

Not popular but useful for those with certain skin conditions such as acne

It is based on talcum powder to give a smooth, matte appreance, with additives such as menthol for cooling effect, colour, and bactericide

Additives:

• Menthol - cooling effect

• Cetrimide - color and a bactericide

PERFUME

oil concentration: more than 20%

would last the longest among all other types: usually 6-8 hours

Eau de Toilette

fragrance concentration: between (5% -15%) 10%

one of the most popular types of fragrance available

cheaper than the Eau de Parfum

normally last 2-3 hours

Eau de Parfum

oil concentration: between 15- 20%

would last for about 4-5 hours

Eau de Cologne

has a much lower fragrance concentration: 2%-4%

cheaper than those above

lasts for up to 2 hours

Eau Fraiche

quite similar to Eau de Cologne

scent will last for up to 2 hours

has an even lower fragrance concentration of only 1%-3%

1. Fougère

2. Oriental

3. Chypre

Masculine Fragrance classified into three major categories:

Fougère

warm powdery character

either specific fresh or woody or ambery twist

Oriental

heavy character

either skewed to amber or spice-like overtones

Chypre

common with fragrances for females

consists of woody, leathery, fresh and citrusy notes

BODY ODOR

primarily results from the interaction between sweat and bacteria on the skin’s surface. Sweat itself is odorless, but when it comes into contact with bacteria present on the skin.

• SWEAT SECRETION

• BACTERIAL INTERACTION

• ODOR RELEASE

Process of Odor Production

• Hygiene Habits

• Hormones

• Diet

• Clothing

• Medical Conditions

Factors Influencing Odor Production:

OUTDOOR GOING MEN

INDOOR GOING MEN

Deodorant Selection

Outdoor Going Men

Long-lasting and sweat-resistant deodorants are essential

Look for products labeled as "sport" or "active" formulas

Formulas often contain higher concentrations of active ingredients like: aluminum compounds to control sweat and odor effectively

Indoor Going Men

May prefer deodorants that prioritize odor control without necessarily focusing on sweat protection

These individuals might opt for milder formulations, such as natural or aluminum-free deodorants

Deodorants rely on ingredients like: baking soda, activated charcoal, or essential oils to neutralize odor without blocking sweat glands

• HYDRATION

• SUN PROTECTION

• OIL CONTROL

• ANTI-AGING

• SHAVING RELIEF

Here are some reasons why skincare is important for men:

• Oil-Free Cleanser

• Gel-Based Moisturizer

• Salicylic Acid Toner

• Oil-Control Face Mask

• Mattifying Sunscreen

FOR OILY SKIN:

• Hydrating Cleanser

• Rich Moisturizer

• Gentle Exfoliant

• Hydrating Face Mask

• Emollient Sunscreen

FOR DRY SKIN:

• Balancing Cleanser

• Lightweight Moisturizer

• Dual-Action Toner

• Clay-Based Mask

• Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen

FOR COMBINATION SKIN:

HAIR LOTION AND TONICS

With a light fixative effect; use as daily application to keep the hair tidy

Help to grow hair on balding heads

When used regularly, it would help to keep the scalp in good condition

Friction produced by the fingers on the scalp, or by the use of a fairly stiff brush, would stimulate the blood flow to the hair follicle and thus contribute to their better condition

based on mixtures of water and denatured ethanol

FORMULATIONS:

• Bay rum: contained rum as a solvent for the bay oil, but this was later replaced by an ethanol/water mixture

• Oil of Bay: 80%

• Oil of Pimento: 20%

• Genetics - male hormones

• Stress or anxiety

• Follicular damage

• Excessive production of sebum

Factors responsible for male-pattern baldness:

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN HAIR LOTIONS AND TONICS

Materials which act as rubefacients - stimulate growth in hair follicles & bring blood to the skin surface

Cantharides (0.1%), Capsicum extract (allowed for external use at 2.5%), Pilocarpine (not allowed in cosmetics), Quinine (0.2% as a base), Ammonia (allowed at 6%), Resorcinol (0.5%, actives must not exceed 1%), Salicylic acid (external use in liquids at 0.05%), Turpentine oil and Rosemary oil.

Sulfur and some of its derivatives - antidandruff, hair growth, and maintaining scalp

Colloidal sulfur: antidandruff agent

Nutrients which are claimed to help cell synthesis:

Vitamins A and E, Vitamin B group, Vitamin F; Pontotheic acid and panthenol

ANTI-DANDRUFF LOTIONS

Classified as hair tonics which corrects or alleviates seborrhea must contribute to a healthier condition of the scalp and reduce the tendency for hair loss

Control dandruff and reduce itching and scaling of the scalp

They may be oily or non-oily depending on the particular form of dandruff which is being treated

Using a purely alcohol-based product: it is used to correct a greasy condition

Including some oily material: it reduces the degreasing action of alcohol to an acceptable level

Oleyl alcohol: may be varied according to the degree of oiliness required

Sulfur preparations have a fungicidal action when applied externally

Combination of sulfur and salicylic acid is also used

Methyl-p-hydroxybenzoate (0.15%, preservative) and perfume (0.2%)

Polythionic acids and their salt: acceptable form of sulfur therapy solutions

Quaternary ammonium polythionates are also suggested for treatment to combine the properties of sulfur and those of quaternary ammonium compounds

Lotions can also be prepared with quaternary ammonium compounds, provided the concentration of the solution must be controlled to prevent over dosage, since this is likely to cause irritation.

• They should be formulated to give 0.01-0.02 g of active material per application.

• They are used with fatty acids to prepare conditioning creams

The recommended dosage in tonics is 0.1% for piroctone olamine and 0.3% for climbazole: Highly effective antidandruff agents and offer the possibility of formulating clear products because of their high solubility characteristics in surfactants and alcohol.

These lotions tend to be drying on the skin and dosage should be kept low and controlled

• Dried colloidal sulfur: an effective ingredient in antidandruff formulations

ANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOOS

Prevention of dandruff

Based on quaternary ammonium compounds: used successfully for the treatment of seborrhoea

Using conventional anionic detergents: incompatibility with a resultant loss in efficacy.

Using with nonionic or amphoteric surfactants: foaming would not be good and additionally, in the latter case

FORMULATIONS:

Zinc pyridine thiol-iV-oxide (ZnPTO) as the active agent along with conventional shampoo detergents

Related salts and (ZnPTO): strong antibacterial effect in addition to slowing down the rapid turnover of epidermal cells

Zinc salts: requires formulation in a system containing a rheological additive such as magnesium aluminium silicate

Magnesium aluminium silicate: provide sufficient viscosity to enable the salt to be uniformly suspended in the formula

• NOTE: Only opaque shampoos are possible

Piroctone olamine as an antidandruff agent (0.75%), allows the formulation of clear products which are aesthetically elegant as well as being efficacious

Climbazole that also allows formulation of clear shampoo (0.7-1.0%), another antidandruff ingredient, although the required process in formulating with this material is less straightforward.

The conditioning shampoo that cleans the hair while also conditioning it to a degree that is sufficient for men's hair

HAIRDRESSINGS

are preparations intended to give good control, good set and luster to the hair without making it greasy

Users of brilliantine apply water before the brilliantine

The Ideal product:  An emulsion which combines the properties of water and oil.

Lotions and gels can also impart the properties of these two materials.

Oil aids in combing and provides gloss, but it does not provide a proper set without the addition of water

a) Pomades and Solid Brilliantines

b) Liquid Brilliantines

c) Non-greasy Hair Creams

d) Emulsion-type Hairdressing

e) Aerosol Hair gloss

FORMULATIONS:

0.5% tincture of tolu or benzoin: for the deg ree of opacity

Carboxyvinyl polymer (Carbopol 940): more acceptable aqueous gels can be prepared

Neutralized Carbopol 940 with triethanolamin: gives a gelled product

Additives: water-soluble lanolin derivatives

Pomades and Solid Brilliantines

made of mineral or vegetable oil, thickened with one or more waxes, and hence semi-solid

Products based mainly on petroleum jelly tend to drag and are dull in appearance

Liquid Brilliantines

intended to leave a thin coating of oil on the hair without the greasy look of a pomade

They are simple mixtures of mineral oil and alkyl myristate

Non-greasy Hair Creams

Improve the condition and/or to style the hair

Early type were made with gum tragacanth

Good fixative properties but tended to give a dull effect on the hair

Impression of dandruff: can be reduced by using a polyol and a small quantity of an oily material

It essential to use a preservative to prevent microbial decomposition of the mucilage

Emulsion-type Hairdressing

These emulsions might be oil-in-water or water-in-oil

Gum tragacanth was used to make the first non-greasy hair products

Applied water-in-oil emulsion in hair: does not lose its water as easily as oil-in-water emulsion and It gives an immediate gloss effect with ease of combing

Applied oil-in-water emulsion in hair: the hair is duller with the outer film of water, which reduces the glossy appearance.

Gloss effect of the oil becomes evident only after the water has evaporated

Oil-In-Water Emulsion-type Hairdressing

The hair is duller with the outer film of water

Suggested preservative(s) mixture, methyl paraben 0.15%; ethyl paraben 0.02%, but tests for microbiological status must be carried out

Gel

microgel, is clear due to the microscopic size of the oil droplets (small).

aqueous polyethylene glycol gelled with a cellulose thickener: are miscible with water and are less greasy than hair creams, but do not give gloss to the hair

Water-In-Oil Emulsion-type Hairdressing

gives an immediate gloss effect with ease of combing

Lotions

based on resin solutions in a volatile solvent such as ethanol, were also offered

presence of a plasticizer was essential to make the resin more flexible and less brittle

These materials included luster aids for gloss without making the hair too greasy

good balance between thermal stability for adequate shelf-life and mechanical instability

If this emulsion breakdown is not rapid, the emulsion will remain white when rubbed on the hair

Required balance: calcium soaps are used as emulsifiers

Cholesterol or wool-wax alcohols: up to 0.5% can increase the thermal stability

Preparation of lime water: 1% concentration of calcium hydroxide in deionized water

Freshly prepared lime water: should contain not less than 0.15% w/v of calcium hydroxide

Aerosol Hair Gloss

A modern, simple formulation which imparts sheen without a heavy oily feel follows

Hair Color Restorers

Products that are based on sulfur and a lead salt and are used to restore the original color to grey hair

When applied, the sulfur is deposited on the hair shaft gradually darkens with the formation of lead sulfite.

Lotions were used at one time, but these had poor stability

The product is applied daily to build up the color until the required shade is obtained

Modern Hair-Styling Products

Setting/styling or setting/conditioning gels can be applied to give a wet look or combed through the hair to give a dry appearance

Mousses can be formulated to give light hold and styling or firm hold and styling, etc.

VITAMIN A

aids in the formation pf protective barrier over the skin and speeding skin cell renewal. It can also help the skin’s natural defenses last longer

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR MEN

It cleans the hair and gives a slight degree of conditioning which is sufficient for men's hair

A combination of silicone and the other emollients are incorporated into the shampoo formulation

These products can be opaque or clear

NOTE ON HAIR LOSS AND BALDNESS:

Minoxidil is the only material which has emerged in recent times as a hair promoter.

A powerful vasodilator

Increased visible hair on the vertex of about one-third of male subjects with male-pattern baldness

AFTER-SHAVES

Fragrances for men are generally called ? in order to link them to a very masculine activity and so be more acceptable to the male user

TRUE

All fragrance products are fragrance compounds blended in aqueous alcoholic mixtures which may also have a low level of an emollient ester

TOP NOTES

Top layer of a fragrance

Scents you detect first after spraying a perfume.

It sets first impressions and shapes a fragrance’s story.

Evaporate quickly, lingering around for only the first 5-15 minutes.

Gives off an initial scent and it consists of lighter and smaller molecules.

HEART NOTES

Considered the “heart” of the fragrance

To retain some of the top notes aroma while also introducing new scents to deepen the experience.

Serves as a buffer for the base notes, which may not smell as pleasant on their own

Make up around 70% of the total scent.

Last longer than top notes

BASE NOTES

Form the foundation of the fragrance

Help boost the lighter notes while adding more depth and resonance

Very rich, heavy and long-lasting fragrances.

After about 30 minutes and work together with the middle notes to create the fragrance’s scent.

Their scent lingers the longest and can last for 6 hours or more

• Sunscreen

• Moisturizing gel

• Protective barrier lotion

• Facial cleanser

• Shower gel

• Moisturizer for sensitive skins

Formulations as part of a total men's range includes:

AHA's (alpha hydroxy acids)

exfoliate the top layers of skin