Exam 1 (Chapters 1-3)

apparel

textiles used in clothing

converter

an individual or organization that buys greige goods, has the fabric dyed or printed

dyeing

the process of imparting a solid color to textiles

exclusive brand

also known as a captive brand, is a national brand with distribution through one retailer

fabric

made from yarns and are either woven or knitted

fair trade

indicates that a product was produced without labor exploitation, by using environmentally sustainable practices, and that the producers received fair prices for their product

fiber

the smallest part of the fabric; fine, hairlike substances that are categorized as either natural or manufactured

finished goods

products that have completed all aspects of the production process, and which are being held for sale

greige

unfinished fabric

importer

a company that buys fabric or manufactured textile products from a foreign mill or other supplier and bring it to the US

industrial products

the textiles used in such items as luggage, flags, boat sails, bandages, disposable dust filters, and so on

interior textiles (soft goods)

the textiles used in furniture, bath, kitchen, and bedding

jobber

a company who helps dispose of excess or surplus merchandise for the mill

market planning

the process of organizing and defining the marketing aims of a company and gathering strategies and tactics to achieve them

mill

a company that owns textile machinery and makes fabric

overrun

occurs when a mill produces more dyed, printed, or finished fabric than the order specifies

overseas agent

a person or company that represents an exporter or importer in the countries overseas where they conduct business

over-the-counter

the purchase of fabrics sold in retail stores

pound goods

very short pieces of fabric (often containing pieces of less than one yard in length); they are sold by the pound and not by the yard

printing

the process of imparting designs to textiles (dots, florals, stripes, etc)

private label

a retail brand in which apparel or other sewn products are manufactured specifically for a retailer and sold exclusively by that retailer

put-up

the term used to indicate the way fabric is packaged when it is sold

recycling

the action or process of converting waste into reusable material

remnants

usually 1-10 yard pieces of cloth

retail

the sale of goods to the public in relatively small quantities for use or consumption rather than for resale

sewn products

a textile part or cut parts that are assembled using a sewing machine

shorts

pieces of fabric shorter than 40 yards in length

sourcing

the act of getting something, especially products or materials, from a particular place

vertically integrated mill

a mill that also produces their own yarn and performs the finishing processes required after the fabric has been created

yarn

continuous threadlike strands composed of fibers that have been twisted together

international trade

textiles have always been a key trade product that has played a key role in the development of many nations, including the US. Because of the significant role in society, it is heavily regulated by trade agreements. The textiles industry is a global, interconnected, complex system

General Fields of Textile Products

the textile industry is segmented into three large groupings: apparel, interior textiles, and industrial textiles

textile industry production segments

fibers, yarns, fabrics, dyeing, finishing, marketing, retail

sources of fabric

primary and secondary

polymer

a very large molecule made by connecting many small molecules together

textile

a term originally applied only to women fabrics, now generally applied to any flexible material that is composed of thin films of polymers or of fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made of films, fibers, yarns or fabrics

coloration

any dyeing or printing process used to add color with dyed or pigments to a textile

end use

the application or function for which a textile is designed or for which it is ultimately used

smart textiles or smart fabrics

sense and react to the environment or stimuli of an electrical, chemical, thermal, mechanical, magnetic, or other nature

abrasion resistance

the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to fabric durablility

absorbency

the ability to take in moisture

cover

the ability to occupy or cover an area

crimp

the bends and twists along the length of a fiber

dry spinning

a technique used to harden manufactured fibers where the fiber solution, mixed with a solvent, is forced through the spinnerette into warm air

elasticity

the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation) and then return to the original length when released (recover)

epitropic fibers

fibers that conduct electricity

fibrillation

when stiff fibers splinter along their length due to abrasion

filament fibers

fibers of long continuous length

flameproof fibers

will not burn

flame-resistant fibers

have a relatively high ignition temperature and slow rate of burning; they may also be self-extinguishing

flammability

the ability to ignite or burn

flammable fibers

relatively easy to ignite and sustain combustion

flexibility

the capability of a fiber to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking

hand

the way a fiber, yarn, or fabric feels when handled

hydrophilic

fibers that are able to absorb water easily

hydrophobic

fibers that have difficulty absorbing water and are only able to absorb a small amount

hydroscopic

fibers that absorb moisture without feeling damp

luster

refers to the light reflected from a surface

manufactured fibers

fibers that are manufactured through the use of science and technology; designed to resolve particular problems and answer specific needs

melt spinning

a technique used to harden manufactured fibers where a solid material is melted to form a liquid solution that is forced through the spinnerette and into cool air

natural fiber

fibers found in nature, either in animals or plants

pilling

the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a fabric that are tangled together in the shapes of a tiny ball called a pill

resiliency

the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased, twisted, or distorted

specific gravity

the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at 4 degrees elsius

spinnerette

the device used to form the filaments of manufactured fibers

staple fibers

fibers whole length are measured in inches

static electricity

a stationary electric charge, typically produced by friction, which causes sparks or crackling or the attraction of dust or hair

strength

a fiber’s ability to withstand stress

thermoplastic

the ability of fibers to withstand heat exposure

tow

heat setting non-crimped fibers into a crimped configuration

wet spinning

a technique used to harden manufactured fibers where the solution is forced through the spinnerette and then into a liquid solution

wicking

the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another

acetate

**type**: staple

**abrasion resistance:** poor

**absorbency**: fair, weaker when wet

**elasticity**: poor

**flammability**: flammable

**flexibility**: high

natural or __manufactured:__

**pilling**: none

**resiliency**: fair

**strength**: poor

**static**: low

**wicking ability:** low

**shape**: round with striations on the surface

**weight**: medium

**end uses:** lining fabric, lingerie, graduation gowns, ribbons, backing fabric for bonded materials, and cigarette-filter material

important notes:

* excellent drape
* luxurious hand
* cheap
* needs to be dry cleaned
* casual creases may become permanent or excessive shrinkage may occur when exposed to heat
* subject to gas fading

acrylic

**type**: staple

**abrasion resistance**: fair

**absorbency**: hydrophobic, weaker when wet

**elasticity**: good

**flammability**: flammable

**flexibility**: high

**natural or** __**manufactured**__:

**pilling**: common

**resiliency**: good

**strength**: fair

**static**: common

**wicking ability**: high

**shape**: round shape with a smooth surface

**weight**: light

**end uses**: sweaters, blankets, carpeting, children’s garments, outdoor products

**important notes**:

* replaced wool
* washable
* lightweight with good drape
* fabrics are warm yet lightweight
* excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering

Carbon Fibers

**type**: filament

**abrasion resistance**: poor

**absorbency**: poor

**elasticity**: poor

**flammability**: flame proof

**flexibility**: poor

**natural or** __**manufactured**__:

**pilling**: non

**resiliency**: high

**strength**: high

**static**: none

**wicking ability**: NA

**shape**: circle

**weight**: light

**end uses**: plastic reinforcement in industrial uses, bridge components, aircraft structure, sporting goods, brake discs

**important notes**:

* not used for clothing

cotton

**type**: staple

**abrasion resistance**: good

**absorbency**: hydrophilic, strength increases when wet

**elasticity**: poor

**flammability**: high

**flexibility**: high

__**natural**__ **or manufactured**:

**pilling**: none

**resiliency**: poor

**strength**: good

**static**: none

**wicking ability**: poor

**shape**: flat twisted tube

**weight**: medium

**end uses**: apparel, interior furnishings, industrial areas, blouses, jeans, jackets, towels, sheets, trousers, t-shirts, sneakers

**important notes**:

* fair drape
* soft hand
* resistant to alkalies but is weakened by resin chemicals
* compromised when exposed to acids

Flax

**type**: staple

**abrasion resistance**: fair

**absorbency**: hydrophilic, stronger when wet

**elasticity**: poor

**flammability**: high

**flexibility**: high

__**natural**__ **or manufactured**:

**pilling**: none

**resiliency**: poor

**strength**: excellent, strongest of plant fibers

**static**: none

**wicking ability**: high

**shape**: like bamboo

**weight**: medium

**end uses**: lace, sheets, linen, clothing, twine, rope

**important notes**:

* good hand
* good luster
* poor drape
* absorbs moisture quickly and dries quickly
* washable
* vulnerable to mildew and silverfish

silk

**type**: filament

**abrasion resistance**: fair

**absorbency**: hydrophilic, loses strength when wet

**elasticity**: high

**flammability**: moderately flammable

**flexibility**: high

__**natural**__ **or manufactured**:

**pilling**: none

**resiliency**: fair

**strength**: high

**static**: little

**wicking ability**: high

**shape**: smooth, elongated wedge

**weight**: medium

**end uses**: dresses, ties, scarves, blouses, decorative pillows, washable sheets

**important notes**:

* excellent drape and luxurious hand
* thinnest of the natural fibers
* can be washed or dry cleaned
* poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight
* can be attacked by moths
* turns yellow when washed with bleach
* weakened and made harsher by alkalies such as those found in strong soaps
* degrades over time

Wool

**type**: staple

**abrasion resistance**: good if coarse

**absorbency**: hydrophilic and hydroscopic, loses strength when wet

**elasticity**: good

**flammability**: flame resistant

**flexibility**: high

__**natural**__ **or manufactured**:

**pilling**: problematic

**resiliency**: good

**strength**: high

**static**: very little

**wicking ability**: medium to high

**shape**: round and scaly

**weight**: medium

**end uses**: overcoats, suits, sweaters, carpets, luxury, upholstery, felt fabric

**important notes**:

* natural crimp
* wrinkles come out if the garment is hung in a moist atmosphere
* hand is fair to excellent
* good drape
* makes warm fabrics
* excellent insulation due to the fiber’s natural crimp
* poor luster
* felting occurs in the presence of heat, moisture, and agitation
* vulnerable to moths
* dissolved in bleach

grading

the process of judging a whole fleece for fiber fineness and strength

sorting

the process of breaking up an individual fleece into its different qualities

where does the best and worst quality wool come from?

best: the back, sides, and shoulder

worst: lower legs

what is the best grade of wool and why?

merino because it has the most crimp, best drape, most strength, best resiliency, best elasticity, soften hand, and most scales

angora

* comes from the angora rabbit
* very slippery due to its shape
* often blended with other fibers

alpaca

* durable, silky, very lustrous
* used in sweaters, ponchos, and craft items

camel hair

* weak fiber
* wool-like texture
* has scales but they aren’t as defined as wool so it does not felt as easily
* mainly used for overcoats

cashgora

* comes from the breeding of cashmere and angora goats
* similar to both cashmere and angora
* used for less expensive overcoats and suits

cashmere

* extremely fine
* outstandingly soft
* the goat is not sheared; instead, a combing process is used to collect the fibers
* end uses include scarves, throws, sweaters, suits, and coats for the luxury market

llama

* weaker than camel hair and alpaca
* still fairly strong
* end uses include sweaters and blankets

mohair

* comes from the angora goat
* strongest of the specialty animal fibers
* very good abrasion resistance
* most resilient natural textile fiber
* little crimp with flat scales, resulting in a slippery and smooth hand
* light luster
* used in fashionable specialty clothing, luxury throws, and velvet fabric for furniture

qiviut

* from a musk ox
* straight, smooth, and has hardly any scales
* resists shrinking and felting
* odorless with no lanolin
* second most expensive

vicuna

* finest and softest of all wool and specialty fibers
* quite weak
* very fine scales, with a smooth hand and high luster
* three times warmer than wool
* almost no lanolin
* hypoallergenic
* rarest and most costly of the specialty fibers
* the animals have not been domesticated

yak

* compared to cashmere at substantially discounted prices

bamboo

* bast fiber
* sustainable because no agrichemicals are required when it is farmed and little water is necessary
* not extensively used by itself because it has a coarse hand
* when it is regenerated from bamboo pulp, in a process similar to making rayon, it has greater appeal

hemp

* bast fiber
* grows easily and quickly
* required little or no pesticides
* resembles linen but is coarser and harsher
* strong and lightweight
* very little elongation
* used in canvas, sailing ships, and was later used to make the first Levi’s jeans
* is now often used in twine, rope, and cordage

jute

* bast fiber
* coarse and harsh
* good resistance to microorganisms and insects
* has moderate dry strength but low wet strength
* low elongation
* retains its shape when made into items such as sacks
* shorter than most bast fibers
* inexpensive
* fair abrasion resistance
* used for burlap fabric for bagging, fabric for interior furnishings, carpet, backing, and cordage

ramie

* bast fiber
* aka china grass
* fine, absorbent, and quick-drying
* most resistant to mildew and rotting
* strongest of all plant fibers
* slightly stiff and has high natural luster
* low elongation
* similar to flax
* end uses include apparel for the mass market, some interior furnishings, ropes, and industrial threads

sisal

* leaf fiber
* taken from the yucca or cactus plants
* rough, coarse, and woody
* used for cordage due to its strength, durability, and resistance to degradation from saltwater
* used in a natural or bleached state to produce mats or rugs
* may be used for wall coverings

micron system

the international system of units (SI) uses metric units for indicating measurements

a micron is equal to 1/1000 of a millimeter or 1/1000 of a meter or 1/1000 of an inch

µm is the symbol used

what invention allowed for manufactured fibers to be produced?

x-ray technology in the 20s and 30s