CTech 41 Mod 1.2 Silk Roads

2nd century B.C.E. – 15th century

How long was the Nusantra (Silk Roads)?

Malong a andon

Rarest type of malong due to its craftsmanship and material

Maritime Silk Roads

• Right in the middle, India dominated the Indian Ocean trade for centuries.

• Its influence reached the Khmer kingdom and SEA archipelago (Nusantara)

The Indian Ocean had predictable monsoon winds, hence, ships was a favorable mode of transport, and they can carry loads of goods.

Why was the Maritime Silk Road more successful than the Silk Road?

Hindu-Buddhism

Through the cultural diffusion in the Maritime Silk Roads, what religion was India able to spread in Southeast Asia?

Cotton

was also a mystery to Europeans, and was a luxury good as well.

What fabric does India have that China doesn't have?

Sari

In India, there is a silk or cotton fabric that is draped over the body. What is it called?

Bindi

is a coloured dot or, in modern times, a sticker worn on the centre of the forehead

Kurti

It is a button-down top usally worn by Indian women

Choli

It is a cropped top usually worn by India

Dhoti

• fabric covering for the lower body.

  • can be a skirt or pants

Pagri

It is a turban worn by men and women that is symbol of honor

Lungi

• men's skirt usually tied around the lower waist below the navel

• has side seams, tubular

Sbai

In Thai ensemble, what is the shawl called?

Na-Nang

the two front pleats in Sinh (Thai skirt)

Sinh

wrap around skirt in Thai women ensemble

CHONG KHBEN

unisex draped pants in Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand

Kemben

Indonesian sarong dress wrapped on the chest

Sarong

Indonesian wrap-around textile

MAKUTA

symbol of divinity in Hinduism & Buddhism

MANGKUT

royal crown in Thailand, Cambodia, Bali, etc.

MOKOT

Royal ballet of Cambodia, many variants

PATOLA

• double ikat developed by the Salvi (weaver caste) of Gujarat, India

• woven by two people

• even the weft is also dyed

ILLUSTRATIONS

design on paper first, grid-like

DOUBLE IKAT

textile technique where both the warp and weft threads are tie-dyed before weaving, is a tradition found in Bali (Indonesia), Okinawa (Japan), and Patan (India). 

HANDLOOM

tilted up, woven by two people

TEMPLE CARVINGS

geometric motifs inspired the Patolaand often depict religious themes and narratives.

WEFT IKAT

• another rare ikat technique, seen on this Thai sarong

• Only the weft has color

MALONG A ANDON

• blurry motifs vertically and horizontally

• double ikat

Islamic Renaissance

• Begain in the 8th century

• The Umayyad conquest reached Spain, which expanded the Silk Roads onto Europe.

• Technologies from Asia were introduced, which revolutionized Europe’s textile industry

Under the Spain under Islamic rule for 700 years, Islamic art doesn’t depict humans and animals because of Quran’s passage about graven images.

Instead, abstract and geometrical.

Why do Islamic art doesn’t depict humans and animals?

Al Andalus

Spain under Islamic rule for 700 years

SIRWAL

• baggy pants

• originated from Turkish horse-riding nomads

VEILING

tradition of many ancient cultures; sign of honor and status for women

HIJAB

headscarf, visible face

NIJAB

full veil, eyes are seen

KEFFIYEH

men’s headwrap

Abaya

Muslim oversized dress

Aurat

• refers to the nakedness by the Muslims

• hair, arms and legs should be covered

SHIRWAL KAMEEZ

• ensemble of pants and a tunic

• usually worn by Indian men

PUNJABI SUIT

• from Northwestern India

• Also known as Salwar Kameez

• usually worn by Indian women

Kebaya Panjang

long, worn by nobility

KEBAYA

• worn over the kemben, adoption of Islamic values

• upper garment

PERANAKAN

Chinese diaspora

• generally refers to a person of mixed Chinese and Malay/Indonesian heritage. Many Singapore Peranakans trace their origins to 15th-century Malacca, where their ancestors were thought to be Chinese traders who married local women

QABA

has a Turkish origin

• one of the essential parts of the dress of the clerics or mosque leaders

• long coat or robe

BAJU MELAYU (1459-1477)

• decreed by Mansur Shar of Malacca (1459-1477)

• The national dress of Malaysia and Brunei is typically worn during official events and functions.

SONGKOK

Muslim cap

BAJU

Ming collared top

• traditional Malay long-sleeved and high-collared shirt worn by men

SAMPIN

Sarong wrap

• a traditional Malay skirt-like adornment worn with the "Baju Melayu" (Malay attire) during formal occasions

SELUAR

matching pants

• traditional trousers worn with the "Baju Melayu" and other Malay attire.

BAJU KURUNG

• ensemble for women

• national dress of Malaysia

TUMPAL

Triangular motif

• Indonesian name for a triangular motif

• This triangle motif's meaning is divinity, knowledge, and power.

SONGKET

brocade with metallic threads

• a tenun fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Brunei, Indonesia, and Malaysia.

• It is hand-woven in silk or cotton, and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads.

  • The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect.

COASTAL BATIK

• Indicative of the multi-cultural maritime trade in Nusantara

• Representational motifs, except people and animals because it is haram (forbidden) in Islam

INLAND BATIK

• Little influence from seafaring merchants, hence, the indigenous motifs.

• Earth tones and abstract patterns.

Parang

Oldest batik motif

CANTING TULIS

equipment to trace the pattern with wax in Batik dyeing

CAPPING METHOD

stamping the wax on the cloth

CAP STAMP

innovation in the 19th century that is used in capping method

BATIK IRENGAN

• black style

• associated with magic

PEOPLE OF THE BANGSAMORO

indigenous communities with Austronesian ancestry who practiced Islam since the Medieval period

SAKLAY

shawl worn on the shoulder of the people of Bangsamoro

BAJU LAPI

long-sleeved blouse of the people of Bangsamoro

• known as Badjuh Lapih (men's upper garment) and Badju Lapi (female upper garment) are usually paired with a Sawwal, a pair of Yakan fabric trousers with vertical stripes

JANGGAY

refers to the long metallic nails of the Tausug

• usually metal or aluminum fingernail extensions used to accentuate the movements of the Pangalay dance.

Malong

tubular textile with various uses like skirt, cloak, bag, etc. in Maranao

royal colors

What does gold and magenta colors represent in Maranao’s Malong A Landap?

BALUD MALONG

Malong that has aquatic motifs which represent home and culture in Lake Lanao

Fine-thread malong, with ikat on selected parts only

OKIR

has an indigenous origin

SILK THREADS

has a Chinese origin

PATOLA IKAT

has an Indian origin

GEOMETRIC

has an Islamic origin

Larger looms

What was developed during the Medieval period to accommodate demand of cotton and silk?

SPANISH SILK

industry brought in by the Muslims

SPINNING WHEEL

Medieval invention from India and China

long sleeves and pants

What is the usual combination of clothing of people of Bangsamoro?

PIS SIYABIT

a traditional Tausug headcloth tapestry from Sulu, Philippines, known for its vibrant geometric patterns and intricate weaving technique

• Islamic geometric patterns

• Full of symmetry, rotation and tessellation

DARHATA SWABI

was a Filipino weaver from Parang, Sulu known for pis syabit, a traditional Tausūg cloth tapestry worn as a head covering by the people of Jolo.

SAWAK PEYAT

richly woven pants worn by both men and women of Yakan

OLOS

women’s wrap over pants

LAMBUNG

refers to the white collar of badju (blouse) worn by Yakan women

SEPUTANGAN

• A head cloth worn by the People of Yakan of Mindanao.

  • The warp and primary weft are of cotton and the supplementary weft is silk.

SINELU’AN

intricately woven fabric with very small motifs

• The woven cloth used for the trousers (sawal) of Yakans

• It has tiny diamond designs arranged in columns between stripes resembling the sections of the bamboo.

TANYAK TANYAK

face paint worn by wedded couple in the culture of the Yakan

OKIR

curvillienar motifs inspired by nature, seen in this spinning wheel

SARIMANOK

also known as papanok in its feminine form, is a legendary and mythical bird of the Maranao people, who originate from Mindanao

MALONG A ANDON

patola ikat + tapestry + pinilian weave

LANGKIT

In Maranao, this is the vertical band that closes the malong

• a strip of multi-colored fabric woven to bind pieces of textile or embroidered to complement the malong's appearance or pattern

checks and stripes

What is the usual designs of malong for everyday wear?

Bombyx mori

also known as silkworm, is a Lepidoptera insect famous for producing silk and is the backbone of the silk industry