Waves, Tides
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6 Terms
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What makes a wave "dispersive"?
Different wavelengths travel at different speeds.
2
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Why are shallow-water waves non-dispersive?
All wavelengths have the same speed (c = √gh) due to depth dependence
3
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Why are deep-water waves dispersive?
Longer wavelengths can penetrate deeper into the water column and travel faster
4
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What distinguishes capillary waves?
Restoring force is surface tension.
5
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What generates internal waves?
Disturbances in density-stratified water (e.g., tides flowing over topography).
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Why are internal waves slower than surface waves?
They experience a reduced effective gravity (due to density contrast).
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