branding: axiological level (+ basics)

why do brands exist?

market polarisation: growing divide between low-cost and high-end, shrinking middle market
consumers seek meaning and value in purchases → align with brands that resonate with their identity 

brands:
material characteristics (product commercialisation)
immaterial characteristics (storytelling/narratives)

brand’s tangible value/brand valuation 

quantifying how much brand contributes to overall value
used in mergers and acquisitions
done by firms that evaluate future earnings and market position
but subjective! 

intangible value/brand equity

consumer loyalty, brand awareness, perceived quality, associations
focuses on emotions and behavior
strong brand equity → customer preference, premium pricing, competitive advantage
different ranking methods (ex. unaided awareness)

brand identity: Kapferer

what is a brand?

composition of all discourses around it
by all subjects active in its generations

specificities are based on being a semiotic instance, a way to segment and give meaning in a structure way
semiotic: logo, colors, signs etc

different dimensions of a brand 

brand identity = make sense of discourses around brand and rank it
Semprini’s ranking framework:
- codification level (visible)
- narrative level
- axiological level (hidden)

limitations of Kapferer’s prism

brands need consistent identity but fashion thrives on seasonality & coded plays
brand meaning is top-down but fashion brands correlated with audiences & culture
identify facets are prescriptive but fashion subverts norms

who’s in charge of branding?

corporate marketing executives
creative communication agencies
social and cultural life
also designers, creative directors

→ control is atomised, not concentrated

marketing & culture & society

consumer culture theory / what makes fashion brands different?

time 
very calendar based industry, fashion weeks
also different business models based on speed of production/distribution

creative directors 
product not as central as creative vision 
brings symbolic aura
allows brands to form emotional bonds, buying lifestyle/fantasy
“narrative capital” of brands, products turn into symbolic goods 

creative vision at different levels
brand level: brand codes, narrative and values
retail level: brand culture, product, customer experience, retail operations

3 dimensions of brand model

codification level (visible)
narrative level
axiological level (hidden)

shows how brand generate meaning
navigating many messages put out by brands
tool to differentiate what is superficial from what builds stability of brand 

another version of the model

axiological level

philosophical study of value
understanding deep level of brand meaning through its unshakeable long term core values
root of the brand’s meaning and mission, their ideology/ethics

eg. Saint Laurent:
female empowerment with suit, but can also be sensual
culture and taste through bookstores/sushi restaurant
mission to expand into lifestyle and become tastemakers

eg. Ami Paris:
French culture, Parisian dream, romanticism
idea of simplicity, innocent fun love

core values & brand category are first element of differentiation

fashion categories

heritage maisons (continuity, ritual, legacy, exclusivity, archives)
contemporary designers (personal expression, anti-conformity, community)
accessible luxury (Parisian cool, democratic, versatility, urban, every day, inclusive)
craft driven brands (quiet excellence and consistency, craft, not seasonal storytelling)
mass market (trend access, affordability, responsive to culture, functional)
conceptual brands (critique of conventions/trends, idea primacy, collective authorship)
collab/community/hype brands (tribe, co-creation, expression, scarcity as cultural signal)

financial growth and profit

each campaign and launch is an investment 
private equity companies invest in big brands to grow them and then sell their stakes
eg L Catterton in KIKO Milano 

performance vs brand marketing

“If rest of operations are not in place, little point in investing in great marketing.”
campaigns can be great but if stock/retail/sales staff/operations aren’t right it doesn’t align
optimise performance marketing to be able to invest in branding marketing

performance: incremental, short term, measurable
brand: long term, brand image