2.4 - Design processes

P2 - Design + making

Iterative design

a cyclical approach to the design and development process

the design process

aims to create new and original ideas

• gathers info to inspire new ideas

• finds most effective way to make prototypes

• circular/iterative process - not linear

• further research and modifications carried out several times to produce success

stages of a circular design process

• research carried out

• inspirational materials gathered

• design brief confirmed

• further research carried out

• design criteria established

• ideas generated

• ideas modelled and developed

• ideas tested and evaluated

• ideas investigates

cycle repeats

designer investigations

• context of design

• needs of target market

• forecasted trends

• need to consult with specialists

• assessment of existing products

research gathered by designers

• design features of former products

• mood boards to inspire a feeling/aesthetic

• work of other designers

what is done with research data gathered

analysed

• ensures investigations are relevant to context

• ensures it provides a good source of inspiration for possible designs

use of inspiration

used on mood/theme boards

• should be illustrated with inspiring images that will generate ideas for design work

• can include sketches and fabric samples

• evokes design theme

methods for generating design ideas

• quick sketches

• detailed drawings by hand/using computer software

• experiments with fabric swatches/colours/textures

• sampling different working techniques

• trying potential materials

• making 3D models out of paper, fabric of CAD

generation of ideas

must be mindful of brief and specification

• should take creative risks to generate innovative ideas

purpose of illustration

records design work - communicates design concepts and final ideas

• can include suggestions = textures, materials, decorative techniques

• can provide evidence of suitable manufacturing technologies

• e.g. sublimation printing

modelling

the development of 3D shape, proportion and scale

• using paper, calico or computer software

purpose of modelling

used to test out ideas and firm decisions about design ideas

• often uses inexpensive and readily available materials

• sometimes model on fabrics similar to the final product

purpose of planning

initial designs are evaluated against a design brief, best are kept

• development plan exists to keep investigations focused on design criteria

• works out how a successful prototype can be made

• seats out possible materials, components, techniques and processes needed

evaluating and testing against design criteria

• test for strengths and weaknesses

• most effective by third party opinions = clients, suppliers, experts, customers

• biased views help judge design aspects

prototype development - pattern/template drafting

use

• an existing commercial pattern

• block templates

• pattern drawing software

• shapes traced from an original product

• moulage techniques

lay pieces on fabric and cut around them

pattern notations/labels

• reference number

• section identification

• grain line

• fold line

• centre back/front

• cutting line

• balance marks/notches

• adjustment lines

• fitting line/seam line

• balance circles

pattern reference number

identifies the design

• e.g. V1735

• commercial patterns = include manufacturers name and possibly a designers name

section identification

identifies the pattern piece

• e.g. skirt front, trouser back, collar

grain line

straight line with arrows either end

• shows direction the pattern piece should be placed

• e.g. along the grain line parallel to the selvage

fold line

line in arrows perpendicular to the line

• needs to be lined with the fabric fold

• creates a symmetrical shape when cut out

centre back/centre front

a dashed line midway between the shoulders

• always straight and vertical

cutting line

solid line

• different line styles for multi size patterns

• e.g. dash-dot-dash or short dashes

balance marks/notches

triangle cut into the fabrics

• e.g. for the placement of a curved sleeve edfe to an armhole

• single notches = front section of a garment

• double notches = back section of a garment

• notches often cut into seam allowance to save fabric - alterations are difficult

adjustment lines

2 horizontal, parallel lines

• placed in the best position for lengthening or shortening

• where it will not effect garment shape

fitting line or seam line

indicates seam allowance

• usually 1.5cm unless stated otherwise

balance circles

matching points

• e.g. for pocket placement, sleeve alignment, matching points on a dart

use of block patterns

can use block patterns instead of commercial to create prototypes

• blocks = commonly used shapes e.g. skirts or sleeves

• can be traced onto paper and adapted to create the desire prototype shape

• dont have a seam allowance - easier to add to modified pattern

pattern master

ruler with straight and curved edges

• for measuring shapes, seam allowances and drawing patterns

pattern adaptation - pattern drawing software

basic block patterns can be printed out

• can be developed and extended using dot and cross paper

pattern adaptation - using a mannequin

pattern pieces can be tested on a mannequin to check features

• e.g. pleat position

• can be altered if necessary

pattern adaptation - using a commercial pattern

existing pattern provides the basic shape

• can be redrafted into the desired shape

• creates a new pattern

pattern adaptation - using existing products

sections of a garment can be laid out an the shapes can be traced to make a pattern piece

• pattern master can be used to make the seam allowance

moulage

moulding fabric around a mannequin to work out garment design and pattern pieces

use of moulage

templates can be developed from the fabric pieces draped across the mannequin

• fabric can be draped across the body

• e.g. to understand how fabric folds and gathers

• similar process to draping

use of darts

dispose excess fabric to create shape

• e.g. around the bust/hip

• can alter size/position to create a good fit

• can use curved seams to create shapes - e.g. princess seams

yoke

a shaped section placed at the back of a shirt or at a hip level in a skirt

• double layered often

• supports the lower section of fabric

• e.g. a gathered skirt can be set into a was it-hip yoke

toile

a test version of a garment

• made of cheap fabric like calico or recycled fabric

use of toiles

made to see how the garment works and what improvements need making

• made without fastenings and other components

• not hemmed

• only test essential features

• several toiles made throughout the design process until the design is finalised

products need to be

• fit for purpose

• the right price

• appealing to the target market

• fashionable

• exclusive and original

iterative design in a commercial context

• iterative process

• continual cycle of sampling, testing, analysing and refining the design

• until final prototype is ready for manufacture

use of methodologies when designing

• different methods used to create new ideas or develop existing ones

• method chosen on product type, target market, client and budget for designing

information sources to guide designers

• commercial trend forecasts

• catwalk and celebrity trends

• sale of current products

• trade shows - e,g. premiere vision

• social media, fashion magazines, trade publications

collaborative working

design team with range of skills work to make a final prototype

• freelance/in-house designer

• product developer

• pattern designer/cutter

• pattern grader

• sample machinist

• garment technologist

design team - freelance/in house designer

produces designs

• illustrates and summarises the design requirements

design team - product developer

plans how the design can be manufactured

• tests suitable fabrics and components within the budget

design team - pattern designer/cutter

takes the design and creates a pattern

design team - pattern grader

develops the patter to provide a range of sizes in proportion to the original pattern

design team - sample machinist

sews the first prototype using the pattern

• according to the expected manufacturing process

design team - garment technologist

ensures the product

• can be manufactured within budget

• fits well

• agrees to the clients specifications

cycle of prototype testing before commercial manufacture

• testing against design criteria

• showing the proposal to the client

• asking consumers for feedback

• consulting with experts

• providing a sample to exhibit on the catwalk

season collections

• spring/summer and autumn/winter

• seasons dictate colour palettes and materials

• e.g. spring - fresh, pastel colours, sheer fabrics

• e.g. winter - dark colours, thick fabrics

style cycles

styles come in and out of fashion cycle over the years

• variations in styles are more frequent

• modern manufacturing techniques can respond to customer tastes and demands more quickly