Waves

How are waves formed?

When wind blows over the surface of the water and transfers energy through friction to create an orbital rotation of the water that ripples into a wave

When do waves break?

When they enter shallow water

How do waves break?

They move more elliptically and friction causes the bottom of the wave to slow down and the top of the wave travels faster, eventually resulting in the wave toppling over

What does it mean if a wave is refracted?

It bends

When do waves refract?

When it approaches an irregular coastline

Where does the water concentrate and disperse when waves are refracted?

Concentrates on headlands and disperses in bays

What does wave refraction create?

It creates currents like longshore drift in bays and transports sediment

Where does wave refraction cause to erode the most?

Headlands

Where does sediment get deposited during wave refraction?

Bays

What does wave refraction maintain and shape?

Coastal features such as headlands and bays

What is a wave crest?

The highest point of the wave

How is wave refraction illustrated at headlands and bays?

The wave crest nears the coast and drags shallow water near the headland so that portion of the crest in deeper water moves forward while the shallow water is delayed by fractional drag

What are the 2 types of waves?

Constructive and destructive

How do waves impact sediment?

Waves transport and deposit sediment at different coasts