Technical Design - Exam 2

Hem

Turns under a raw edge and secures it to the garment

Lockstitch Machines

Most frequently used sewing machines that use a top thread and bobbin thread that interlock together

Chainstitch Machines

Sewing machine that uses looper threads instead of bobbins. These are larger cones of thread, making them a faster machine that makes stitches that look like chains.

Safety Stitches

Combines a row of overedge stitches with a row of straight lock stitches or chainstitches, creating a very durable seam.

Coverstitches

Covers top and bottom of seams of flat seams (FS class). Very strong and stretchable, but uses large amounts of thread.

Stitches per Inch

SPI

Seamline

Place marked on the pattern piece where the stitching line will be to bring the seams together

Seam Allowance

Distance from the seamline to the cut edge (raw edge) of the fabric

Seam

Stitched joint between two or more pieces of fabric

Busted Seam

A plain seam where the seam allowances have been pressed open and are flat

Superimposed Seams

Created by stacking fabric plies and sewing together near the edges

Enclosed Seams

The second most common seam type that requires two separate stitchings, join and topstitching. Fabric plies are sewn face sides together, opened out, and topstitched.

Plain Seams

The most common seam type, general seaming.

Reinforcing Seams

Stayed Seams: Taped seams, Strapped seams, and Stripped seams

French Seams

Seam within a seam, a narrow seam encased in a wider seam. Good for thin, lightweight, or sheer fabrics.

Lapped Seams

Constructed by joining all thicknesses from the face side. Seam allowances of two or more fabric plies are sewn together (fabrics extend in opposite directions).

Flat Seams

Joins fabrics along the edges, butting them together, or overlapping them slightly.

Bound Seams

Requires a separate piece of fabric that encompasses the edge of one or more plies of fabric. This can only be used at the edge of a garment.

Stayed/Stripped Seams

Tape covers the join the seam.

Stayed/Strapped Seams

Strip is used to cover a raw seam. Can be used inside to cover raw edges or outside as a decorative trim over a seam.

SSa

Plain Seam

SSe

Enclosed Seam

LSbm

Mock Flat Felled Seam

SSae

French Seam

SSab

Taped Seam

SSag (decorative)

Strapped Seam

SSf (neckline)

Stripped Seam

LSc

Flat Felled Seam

FSa

Flat Seam

BSe

Bound Seam

101

301

301 Twin Needle

304

401

401 Twin Needle

406

504

505

512

Mock Safety Stitch

514

516

602

605

EFa

Single-fold hem

EFb

Double-fold hem

EFc

Blind-stitched hem

EFu

Spaghetti straps

EFh

Belt loops

OSa

Topstitching