Coastal Systems and Processes

Constructive wave

A type of wave with strong swash and weak backwash that deposits material

Destructive wave

A wave with strong backwash and weak swash that erodes beaches

Dynamic equilibrium

A state of balance within a coastal system, where inputs and outputs of sediment are equal over time

Fetch

The distance over which the wind blows uninterrupted across the sea surface

High energy coastline

A coastline exposed to strong waves and wind where erosion exceeds deposition, forming cliffs. arches, and wave-cut platforms.

Low energy coastline

A sheltered coastline where wave energy is low and deposition exceeds erosion, forming beaches and spits.

Rip current

A narrow, fast-moving flow of water returning seaward through breaking waves a localised high-energy current.

Sediment budget

The balance between the inputs, outputs, stores, and transfers of sediment within a coastal system.

Sediment cell

A stretch of coastline where sediment movement is largely self-contained which helps manage coastal processes more effectively.

Tidal range

The vertical difference between high and low tide which influences the level of wave action on the coastline.

Wave refraction

The bending of waves as they approach the coast, concentrating energy on headlands and reducing it in bays.