Coastal processes

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23 Terms

1
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The "newest" body of water considered an ocean is the:

Southern Ocean

2
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__________ is a relatively small body of saltwater that is surrounded by land on three sides and opens to a see or ocean.

a gulf

3
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________ refers to the concentration of dissolved solids in water, measured in parts per thousand.

salinity

4
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When water has a salinity of greater than 35 parts per thousand, the water is considered:

brine

5
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Fluctuations in sea level associated with adjustments in the hydrologic cycle are called _________ change.

eustatic

6
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A former glaciated valley along the coast that is flooded by rising sea level is termed:

a fjord

7
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When the gravitational pull from the moon pulls directly on the water body and is perpendicular to the sun, it is called a(n) _______ tide.

eustatic

8
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The transport of sediment by longshore current is called:

longshore drift

9
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. The moon's gravitational pull is responsible for ____% of the ocean's daily tides

8.2

10
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A brackish body of water that lies behind a baymouth bar is called:

a lagoon

11
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The high spot of an individual wave is called:

a wave crest

12
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The surge of water from breaking waves onto the beach is called:

swash

13
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The processes through which sediment is transported and deposited in the shore zone are called:

littoral processes

14
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___________ is the nearshore zone that is regularly uncovered through the tidal fluctuations and movement of surf.

the foreshore

15
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_______ is a linear bank of land that extends into a bay made by the deposition of longshore sediment.

a spit

16
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________ is a spit that entirely closes a bay.

a baymouth bar

17
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An elongated bar of sand that forms parallel to the shore that is not connected to the shore and stretches for some distance is called:

a barrier island

18
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A low wall built at a right angle from the shore out a short distance into the water is called:

a groin

19
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This is a resistant marine ridge or mound consisting largely of compacted coral together with algal material and biochemically deposited calcium carbonates.

coral reefs

20
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________ is a long stone or concrete structure used to create a permanent opening for a channel by reinforcing both sides of the passageway.

a jetty

21
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A spit that reaches an island or sea stack is called a what?

tombolo

22
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___________ is a small ridge on the bottom of the ocean that typically separates the offshore and foreshore.

the offshore bar

23
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____________ is the part of the beach that lies between the beach ridge and the foredune.

the foreshore