Chemical Texture Services

Permanent waving

chemically straightening or curling permanently

Why study chemical texture services?

- allows stylists the opportunity to offer clients options to change the texture of their hair

- knowing how to perform these services accurately, safely and professionally will help build a better clientele

- chemical services are among the most lucrative and repetitive services in the salon

- understanding is need so the hair is not damaged or harming yourself or clients

Chemical Texture Services

causes a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

Ex: permanent waving, relaxing, curl re-forming

When was the first perm machine invented? by who?

1907, Charles Nessler

When was the first preheated perm method introduced?

1932

When was the cold wave introduced?

1941

What did the cold wave do when invented?

replaced virtually all predecessors

when was neutral and acid - balanced waves introduced?

1970

How does chemical services affect the cuticle?

not directly involved; must soften and swell cuticle and penetrate for service to be effective

Cuticle

tough outer layer of the hair; surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage

Cortex

- middle layer of hair; located beneath the cuticle

- responsible for hairs strength, elasticity, color and shape

Microfibrils

several polypeptide chains cross-link with color and shape to create ting, thread link fibers that twist around each other to make larger bundles

Macrofibrils

dozens of microfibrils twist

Fibrils

microfibrils intertwine

Keratin is a _____ ____?

amino acid

- made up of long coiled polypeptide

Medulla

aka pith or core; innermost layer of hair, usually missing in some fine types of hair

pH

potential hydrogen; represents the quantity of hydrogen ions and measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance

Amino Acids

compounds made of carbon, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, hydrogen

Peptide bonds

aka end bonds; chemical bonds that join 2 or more amino acids together in long chains. NEVER INVOLVED IN CHEMICAL ACTIONS OF SALON

- if even a few bonds are broken the hair becomes weak and damaged

what is the strongest chemical bond?

peptide bonds

polypeptide chains

formed by peptide bonds linked together

keratin proteins

make up about 97% of hair's structure

side bonds

disulfide, salt and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together

Salt bonds

weak, physical, ionic side bonds resulting from an attractive between negative and positive electrical charges

- 1/3 of hairs strength

- broken by change in pH

Hydrogen bonds

weak, physical, ionic side bonds resulting from an attraction between opposite electrical charges, easily broken

- broken by water or heat

- 1/3 of hairs strength

Disulfide bonds

formed between 2 cysteine amino acids

strong, chemical covalent side bonds; located on neighboring polypeptide chain

- bond joins two sulfur atoms, one from each of the polypeptide chains are strong, chemical, covalent side bonds

- can be broken with boiling water, WE can only break them with redox

- can be broken with boiling water

- 1/3 of hairs strength

What does alkaline solution do to the hair?

soften and swell the hair, opens the cuticle, letting solution penetrate the cortex

What does acid solution do to the hair?

far less swelling of the hair than alkaline solutions

Reduction

When waving solution is in the cortex, breaks the disulfide bond through a chemical reaction

What does reduction do? for permanent waving?

- adding or removing oxygen

- in perms, it adds hydrogen

Thioglycolic acid

- colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor

- most common reducing agent

Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

- the addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid

- alkaline and active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents

Alkaline waves

aka cold waves; because they process at room temperature

- developed in 1941 using ATG

- coarse, thick or resistant hair

- pH between 9.0-9.6

- active ingredient: waving lotion + neutralizer

Acid waves

- Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) is main ingredient

- has a low pH

True Acid wave

- for extremely porous, damaged hair

- 3 components: waving solution, activator, neutralizer

- pH of 4.5- 7.0

- introduced in early 1970's

- require heat to speed processing

- Endothermic

Acid Balance wave

aka modern acid wave

- pH of 7.8- 8.2

- active ingredient: Glyceryl monothioglycolate

- processes at room temperature

- firm curl

Exothermic waves

creates a exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution+ speeds the process

3 compounds: permanent waving solution, activator, neutralizer

- reducing agent: ammonium thioglycolate

- pH of 9.0-9.8

- processes at room temperature

- coarse, thick, or resistant hair

Endothermic waves

-activated by outside heat; usually conventional hooded dryers

- will not process properly at room temperature

Ammonia-Free waves

- perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as rapidly as ammonia

- active ingredients: aminomethyl propanol (AMP) or monoethanolamine (MEA)

- very little odor

Thio-Free waves

Use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine as primary reducing agent

Low-pH waves

perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites presents an alternative to ATG

- as low as 6.5-7

- very weak, does not provide a firm curl

- normal, fine, damaged hair

- endothermic

what percent of disulfide bonds break during wave processing?

50%

what is the strength of the wave based on?

the concentration of its reducing agent

when does over processing happen?

within the first 5- 10 minutes

When do you do a test curl? what are you looking for?

take a test curl at 10 minutes; looking for a strong "S" formation

How do you get good processing?

Good saturation

What makes overprocessed hair?

If too may disulfide bonds are broken

- wont hold a firm curl

- hair at scalp is stronger than ends

What makes underprocessed hair?

If too few disulfide bonds are broken

- hair will not be sufficiently softenened

- hair at scalp isn't as curly as ends

- more processing time is required

what determines the size of the curl

the size of the rod

physical change in perms

wrapping the hair around the rod

chemical change

application and processing of waving solution and neutralizer

key components of a successful perm

- the correct perm rod and wrapping method is crucial

what are the active ingredients of alkaline and acid solutions

neutralizer and peroxide

what is another way of referring to a reducing agent, and how is it used

thio, in perming solutions

what does thio contain

thiol which is a particular group of compounds, along with carboxylic acid