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Ethnography of political T-shirts
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Pol T-shirts
Function as ethnographic objects
Circulate across left-wing and right-wing movements
Are widely accessible and central to digital activist economies
Can convey simplified, misleading, or even incorrect political narratives
Operate at the intersection of activism, consumption, branding, and identity
merchandise attempts to detach stigma from certain identities while reinforcing others
Follow-the-thing methofology
Cook et al,
Objects have social lives (Appadurai, 1988)
To understand meaning, researchers must follow objects across their entire trajectory
Meaning emerges through the interplay between people, things, places, and practices
Rejects bounded, single-site ethnography
Encourages ethnographic travel across space and time
Focuses on non-linear commodity chains
Following the T-shirt
Design and production
Distribution (online and offline)
Consumption and everyday use
Disposal or reuse
different T-shirts require different research strategies, depending on ideology, circulation, and context.
Fieldwork
The ethnographic project was intentionally fragmented and multi-sited, reflecting the object’s mobility.
Object interviews and object diaries
Written contributions
Screenshots tracking T-shirts in digital spaces
Studying objects is a powerful way to study politics
Ethnography offers many methodological choices
For exams: students must be able to design a research project from a research question
Ethical challenges and access
Researching politically extreme groups raised several issues:
Lack of existing networks
Deep mistrust toward researchers
The framing of the far-right as “distant” or “other”
Privacy, consent, and safety concerns
Positionallity
Open vs Covert
Impossibility of full political neutrality
Difficulty communicating across deep political divides
Empathy, complicity an emotional ethics
Ethnographic encounters often blurred lines between:
Empathy and political sympathy
Understanding participants and appearing to support their ideology
Body and presence in the field
Being young and female reduced perceptions of threat
Bodily presence itself carried ethical weight
Gender politics influenced interactions and safety
Possible methdological solutions
- Fragmented and multi-sited approach
- Flexibility
- Solving tensions of political relationality
- Helping build trust
- Debunking common assumptions
- Rethinking ‘depth’ in the field