MATERIALS part 2

Disperse Dyes

Also known as Acetate dyes. Originally developed for acetate fibers. Fume fading caused by exposure to nitrogen in the air.

Developed Dyes

Can withstand frequent washing. Tub-fast colors Dyes that do not bleed

Reactive Dyes

Water-soluble organic dyes. Produces excellent penetration and leveling

Sulphur dyes

Made by reaction of sulphur with organic compounds. Used only on vegetable materials. Produces full colors and includes blues, greens, maroons, oranges and yellows

Vat dyes

Fastest dyes for cotton, linen and viscose and cuprammonium rayon. considered as the most satisfactory of all dyestuffs

Solution Dye

Man-made fibers are dyed in solution before filament is formed. Excellent colorfastness but disables flexibility for the final design.

Fiber Dyes

Also known as Stock Dye. fibers are dyed before yarns are spun and woven into fabric

Yarn Dye

Yarns are dyed before they are woven into checks, plaids, stripes on herringbone designs

Piece Dye

Also known as Dip-dyeing. Cloth is dyed after fabrication

Jig dyeing

Fabric passes back and forth through a stationary dye bath. "shower"

Winch, Reel or Beck Dyeing

Fabric is continuously immersed without strain to the fabric. "Bathtub"

Pad dyeing

Fabric is run through the dye bath and then between rollers which squeeze the dye deeper into the yarns of the fabric. "dye bath + rollers"

Cross Dye

Fabric of two or more fibers are placed in a dye bath containing two or more difference dyes. Fiber will dye based of affinity

Solid Dye

One fiber is dyed one color.

Union Dye

Technique mixes dyes for fabrics made from two or more fibers so that fibers will dye the same color

Structural Design

Type of Fabric design - produced DURING the process of making the fabric. Yarn type and arrangement. Weaves and Knits. Lappet and Swivel designs structural weaves using extra yarns.

Applied Design

Type of Fabric design - Placed on the fabrics AFTER they have made.

Printing

Done to add colors and designs to fabric surfaces

Block Printing

Oldest method of fabric design. Carving of design on wood, rubber or metal block. Block is then pressed down firmly by hand until design is trasnferred

Stencil Printing

Design is cut on a cardboard, wood or metal. Color penetrates only on the cut portions

Burn-out Printing

Acids are used to take out fibers to create design. Fibers are bruned leaving a lacy desgin. Eyelest are created through this process.

Discharge or Extract Printing

Color is discharged or removed from the fabric creating the design. Chemicals are used to remove the colors. Employed when a light design is required against a dark backgorund

Roller Printing

Machine counterpart of hand-block printing. Designs are engraved on rollers as the fabric passes between them. Used for vast quantities of fabric.

Duplex Printing

Creates a design which appears on the face and back of the fabric stimulating a woven pattern. Reversible. Use of duplex machine or roller printing machine.

Resist printing

Resist paint is stamped on the fabric creating a design. Fabric is then immersed in a dye bath leaving the design unaffected

Resist Paint

A resinous substance that cannot be penetrated when the fabric is immersed in a dye bath.

Batik Printing

An example of resist printing where fabric is pile-spread with Paraffin or wax. Waxed areas remains in the original color, while the rest of the fabric adopts the color of the dye.

Tie Dyeing

Fabric is tied in knots to create folds that form a barrier for the dye which results to a pattern

Photo Printing

Fabric to be printed is covered with chemicals that are sensitive to light. Any photograph can be printed on the fabric

Plisse Printing

Chemicals are used to produce the puckered design. Fabric passes between rollers which permit a caustic solution to contract certain areas of the fabric. Results to a puckered design of the fabric

Warp Printing

warp yarns are printed usually with the use of rollers before they are woven into a fabric. Results to a soft and vague like effect. Used for expensive cretonnes and upholstery fabrics.

Screen Printing

Can create large designs with elaborate effects and variety of colors. Design is first drawn or silk, nylon or metal screen. Lacquer coating is applied to all parts of the screen on which the design does not appear.

Transfer Printing

Process of transferring prints from pre-printed release papers to fabrics. Papers are printed with disperse dyestuff. When heated, colors transfer to fabric

Free-Hand Painting

Simplest method of fabric design. Designs are put in the fabric by painting the color directly to the cloth with the use of a brush. Slow and laborious, done for special purposes

Applique

Applying one piece of fabric to another larger piece the nis stitched down

Embossed Designs

Raised designs found on the surface of the fabric. Produced through special machines that permanently presses the designs with the use of heat, moisture and steam.

Flocked Designs

Flocks are made to stick to the fabric. Fabric is printed with an adhesive then flocks are dusted to it

Flocks

Tiny piece of fiber

Glued or Pasted Designs

Cut out designs are held to the fabric surface by the fabric of glue or adhesive

Moire Designs

Have a watered appearance

Leather

A processed skins and hides of mammals, reptiles, fish, and birds

Cattle Hide

Skin of a fully grown cow

Bend

Center portion of the hide. It is the best quality hide.

Calfskin

Hide of a young animal

Bonded leather

also known as reconstituted leather. Composed of 90-100% leather fibers. Bonded together with a latex binders. Creates a look and feel similar to leather but only a faction of the cost, not as durable as leather.

Bycast Leather

Split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied on surface and then embossed

Full-Grain Leather

also knwon as Full-top grain leather. Genuine original grain of hide. Surface has not been altered in any way so it shows the full natural hide.

Top-grain Leather

The Second highest quality. Split layer is separated away making it thinner and more pliable than full-grain leather. A finish coat is added which results to a colder, plastic feel with less breathability

Corrected-Grain Leather

has had artificial grain applied to its surface. Imperfections are sanded off and an artificial grain is impressed into the surface

Split-Leather

Created from the fibrous part of the hide that is left. Once the top-grain has been separated, the inside layer is finished as suede.

Buckskin

also known are Brained Leather. LEather that has undergone a type of tanning process that uses animal brains to alter it. Supple, suede-like hide that is smoked to prevent rotting.

Patent Leather

Leather that has been given a high gloss finish. Coated with lacquer on the final finishing process

Shagreen

Also known as Stingray leather. Used in furniture production since Art Deco. Originated from France

Slink

Leather from the skin of unborn calves. Soft and highly valued.

Tanning

Used to preserve the hide. Puts life back into leather by replacing the natural gelatinous materials found in the skin. Makes the leather strong, supple and enduring

Mineral Tanning

Tanning solution is based on chromium salts. Makes hide accept dyes well. Doest not discolor or lose shape in water.

Vegetable Tanning

Tanning solution based of tree bark and water. Makes leather have a heavier feel and distinct smell. Tends to discolor in water

Combination Tanning

Produces a hide that is quite supple. Limited acceptance of dyes

Finishing

Colors the leather and helps protect it from hard wear

Aniline Dyes

Translucent and does not contain opaque pigments. It does not obscure the natural grain pattern and surface imperfections. Dye penetrates through the depth of the hide completely

Semi-aniline Dyes

Contain some pigments. Helps ensure uniformity in color among many hides.

Bamboo Fabric

Made from the pulp of bamboo grass. More sustainable than most textile. Anti-bacterial to some extent

Birdseye

Small geometric pattern with a center dot resembling a bird's eye

Bonded

Two or more fabric layers held together with adhesive or a fusible layer.

Bark Cloth

Fabric that simulates the bark of trees. Printed with large vines, leaves and florals

Berber Fleece

Made when fabric is brushed with wire brushes to pull the material together and fluff it up. End fabric has a looped, soft pile with large air pockets that serve as insulating properties

Boucle

French word for "buckled" Fabric has a ring appearance formed by drawn-out loop yarns on the face of the goods. Kinky appearance.

Bedford Cord

A cord cotton-like fabric with raised edges in the lengthwise direction. Has high strength and durability used for upholstery and work clothes.

Bengaline

Sturdy warp-faced fabric with pronounced cross-wise ribs formed by bulky and coarse pile yarns. Originated in Bengal, Inda

Batiste

Mercerize; made of cotton or cotton blends. Name after Jean Baptiste

Broadcloth

Tightly woven plain weave with a cross weave. A dressy fabric and must be handled with care. Form fitting and drapes well.

Brocade

A rich Jacquard woven fabric of an all-over interwoven design of raised figures of flowers with the pattern emphasized by contrasting surfaces or colors done in low relief. Derived from the French word meaning "to ornament"

Calico

One of the oldest cotton staples from Calcutta, India. Usually have small floral patterns which is resist printed onto a while or contrasting background

Buckram

a ply yarn scrim fabric with a stiff finish. Used for interlinings in garments

Bull Denim

Twill weave cotton denim fabric that is soft but as tough as nails. More durable and heavier than regular denim.

Burlap

Also known as Gunny. A plain weave coarse fabric made from Jute or Hemp. Used as carpet backing

Brocatelle

Tightly woven jacquard fabric with a warp effect in the figure giving a puffed appearance. Heavy fabric with high relief

Cambric

Soft and white cotton that is calendared to produce a sligh gloss. Originated in Cambrai, France.

Canton Flannel

Twill which is brushed to produce a soft nap at the back. Heavy, warm, strong, and absorbent. Named after Canton, China.

Canvass

A rugged, heavy material mad from plyed yarns. Has an even weave that is heavy and firm for heavy duty purposes.

Challis

Softest fabrics made. Very lightweight with a printed delicate floral pattern. Named from Anglo-Indian term, Shalee, meaning soft.

Chambray

Made from cotton fibers with blue warp and white filling that gives mottled colored surface

Cretonne

Unglazed chintz

Chevron

Broken twill creating a design of wide V's across the width of the fabric

Chiffon

Strong fabric inspired of its gauzelike, soft, flimsy appearance.

Chintz

Resin glazed, can withstand washing, cotton fabric printed with bright figures and large flower designs. Named from Hindu word meaning spotted.

Chennile

Woven from Chenille yarns and has a fuzzy pile that looks hairy. Named from the French word meaning "Caterpillar"

Coated

Fabrics that have been coated with lacquer or substance to make them long lasting or impervious to liquids.

Corduroy

A cut pile cloth with narrow to wide wales that run in the warp directions of the goods. Warmest cotton fabric because of the wales that serve as insulated cushion of air

Damask

A firm, glossy Jacquard patterned fabric similar to brocade but flatter and reversible. First brought to the western by Marco Polo from Damascus

Crewel

Chain stitch embroidery made with fine, loosely-twisted two-ply worsted yarn on a plain weave cotton fabric.

Denim

A rugged, serviceable staple cotton cloth recognized by left-hand twill on the surface. Originally used for work clothes.

Jeans

Refer to the end material of processed denim

Crinoline

Lightweight, plain, weave. stiffened fabric with a low yarn count. From the French word "Crinol" meaning horsehair and lin for linen, stiff.

Crushed

Any fabric that has been treated to have a permanently crinkled, crushed or rumpled appearance.

Crushed Velvet

Any velvet with an irregular pattern of nap going in different directions

Crepe

A lightweight fabric characterized by a crinkly surface produced by hard twist yarns

Crinkle

Fabric with uneven surface created by the use of caustic soda that causes it to shrink unevenly

Dimity

Thin, sheer cloth in which cords or stripes may be woven into the fabric. Has a crisp texture and is used for bedspreads

Dotted Swiss

Sheer fabric embellished with small dot motifs that may vary in color. From Saint Galen, Switzerland