1. Introduction to Cosmetic Product Development

cosmetic products

___are an important element in human society. However, cosmetics use has implications for health hazards; hence, modern cosmetic technology is searching for naturally derived cosmetics.

• skin physiology and

• in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and

• products, physical chemistry,

• chemical analysis, quality, and

• stability of a cosmetic product

Research in the development of skin and hair care ingredients and formulations has delved into various areas of particular interest, including studies ino a scope of pharmaceutical science

pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries

strong collaborations between __would mean a quality, effective, and more stable cosmetic product developed

cosmetic science

a multidisciplinary applied science that develops, formulates, and produces cosmetics and personal care products. It also studies regulations and how to assess products’ safety, performance, and quality

cosmetic science

the study of the effects that raw materials and mixtures can have on parts of the human body like hair, skin, lips, and nails. In recent years, cosmetic scientists and associated workers have been trying to advance the field positively.

cosmetic science

area of study focused on the development of products designed to improve the look and feel of skin, hair, nails, and other surfaces of the body

cosmetic chemists

The industry's most popular cosmetic and body care products were not created accidentally. ____precisely and painstakingly formulated cosmetic products with a deep understanding of the role of chemistry within product creation.

principles of cosmetic chemistry

The ___are necessary to properly blend ingredients to create a product without exposing the body to dangerous toxins or causing unwanted side effects.

• polymers, colors, emulsions, surfactants

• research into development of new materials and formulations

• temperature, mixing speed, production time

• quality control and oversight for consumer satisfaction

• product engineering using chemical engineering

• chemical bonds and interactions between substances

branches of cosmetic chemistry

cosmetology

the art and profession of applying makeup

cosmetology

the art and science of beautifying the hair, nails, and skin.

cosmetology

include hairstyling (haircutting and coloring), aesthetics (skincare), make-up application, nail care (manicures and pedicures), and other beauty treatments.

cosmetics

“Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting structure or function.” (FD&C Act)

cosmetics

colloquially known as makeup or make-up; are generally mixtures of chemical compounds, some being derived from natural sources, many being synthetic...

✓Skin moisturizers

✓Lipsticks

✓Nail polishes

✓Shampoos

✓Hair coloring

✓Deodorants

✓Antiperspirants

✓Perfumes & Colognes

✓Toothpaste

✓Mouthwash

✓Eye and facial makeup

✓Facial foundations

✓Facial cleansers and toners

✓Hand soaps

✓Body wash

what are the examples of cosmetic products

4000 B.B

what year did the Egyptians applied Mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore), a bright green paste, and kohl, a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper, lead, ash, and ochre, to their faces?

Mesdemet

(made of copper and lead ore), a bright green paste

kohl

a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper, lead, ash, and ochre

4000 B.C.

what year did they use red clay, henna, perfumed oils and castor oil?

red clay

they applied a mixture of __and water to their lips and cheeks. And the nails weren’t left out, either

henna

dye them orange or yellow.

castor oil

what did they used as protective balsams?

1500 B.C.

what year did China and Japan, rice powder was used to paint faces pasty white?

1000 B.C

what year does Greece use these:

• chalk or white lead face powder

• ochre clays laced with red iron

Greece

they used chalk or white lead face powder to have a white look

ochre clays laced with red iro

In Greece: Women used __ for lipstick

100 A.D.

what year in Rome?

• barley, flour and butter

• sheep’s fat and blood

barley, flour, and butteR

In Rome, people put ___ on their pimples

sheep’s fat and blood

IN Rome, they use __ on their fingernails for polish

100 A.D.

They took mud baths.

100 A.D.

Men frequently dyed their hair blond.

100 A.D

Used skin creams made of beeswax, olive oil, and rosewater

19th Century

Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors.

1935

Due to the influence of movie stars, the Hollywood “tan” look emerges.

Max Factor of Hollywood

in 1935, ____ developed and introduced pancake makeup because of the adjustments required for photographing faces for a film.

1985- Present

there is a diversity of new looks, cosmetics, and beauty aids. They form an industry of over $20 billion in sales annually.

1985- Present

rise of Cosmeceuticals

20th century

the popularity of cosmetics increased rapidly. Girls increasingly use cosmetics at a young age, especially in the United States

20th century

Due to the fast-decreasing age of make-up users, many companies, from high-street brands like Rimmel to higher-end products like Estee Lauder, cater to this expanding market by introducing flavored lipsticks and glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly packaging, and marketing and advertising using young models.

skin

the primary substrate of cosmetics

skin

cosmetic chemists and pharmacists are concerned with its topology, morphology, composition, and its surface energetics

1. epidermis

2. dermis

3. subcutaneous fat/ tissue

what are the layers of the skin

epidermis

the superficial layer of the skin and provides the first barrier of protection from the invasion of substances into the body

dermis

the tough but elastic support structure that houses nerves, blood vessels, lymphatics, and cutaneous appendages (pilosebaceous units, eccrine, and apocrine sweat glands)

dermis

inner layer providing structural and biochemical support of the epidermis

subcutaneous fat/ tiissue

important layer and plays a role in shock absorption, energy storage, and maintenance of body heat

1. collagen

2. elastin

what are the skin’s proteins

collagen

It's the most abundant protein, making up 75 % of the skin.

collagen

responsible for warding off wrinkles and fine lines.

elastin

found with collagen in the dermis

elastin

responsible for giving structure to skin and organs.

elastin

main contributor to skin elasticity

1. To give solidness to the skin

2. Give resistance and coherence to connective tissues

3. Support coherence between cells

4. Induce division and differentiation of cells (during the growth of an organism or wound healing)

what are the main functions of collagen?

collagen

it is known to be reduced by aging and exposure to ultraviolet rays, which is closely related to the formation of wrinkles on the skin

1. provide collagen matrix with flexibility

2. endow soft tissues with low stiffness, high and fully reversible extensibility and resiliency

3. efficient elastic–energy storage.

The main functions of elastin are:

1. normal skin

2. dry skin

3. oily skin

4. combination skin

5. sensitive skin

5 types of skin

normal skin

feels neither right or oily

dry skin

feels tight

oily skin

feels oily all over

combination skin

oily t-zone normal dry cheeks

sensitive skin

red, irritated tight patchy

normal skin

has a fine, even, and smooth surface due to its ideal balance between oil and moisture content and is, therefore, neither greasy nor dry

normal skin

smooth, clear skin; no blemishes or excess oily and dry parts; skin pores normal

dry skin

skin looks flaky, dry, dull and stretched, skin pores not visible; prone to age lines and sensitivity

dry skin

parched appearance

dry skin

prone to wrinkles and lines due to its inability to retain moisture, as well as inadequate production of sebum by sebaceous glands.

oily skin

skin surface is slight to moderately greasy, caused by the oversecretion of sebum.

oily skin

visible, enlarged pores, skin looks greasy and shiny; t frequent acne outbreaks like pimples, blackheads etc.

combination skin

T- Zone oily, cheeks, other areas dry or normal; mild skin sensitivity & blackhead around nose at time

combination skin

the most common type of skin.

combination skin

as the name suggests, it is a combination of both oily & dry or normal skin, where certain areas of the face are oily & the others dry.

sensitive skin

prone to skin allergies causing redness, irritation and rashes due to genetics or external factors

sensitive skin

Tends to react to many potential triggers with irritation, redness, stinging or burning, flaking, lumpiness, and rashes

sensitive skin

a very reactive type of skin

sensitive skin

not a type of skin but a known skin condition

skin moisturizing effect and wound healing effect

Conventionally, products obtained by mixing collagen with a composition for external application to the skin, such as cosmetics, are brought into the market to take advantage of collagen's__

collagen

is a large molecule, it cannot be absorbed percutaneously by applying it to the skin.

high temperatures

Collagen must be subjected to ____because heat loosens the triple helix structure of the protein but loses its therapeutic properties. Thus, it causes the amino acids in collagen to denature and break down.

manufactured at high temperatures and distributed at room temperature

Most commercial Active collagen preparations are ___ leading the triple helical protein to unravel and thus lose its therapeutic effect. C

“hydrolyzed collagen” or “gelatin.”

collagen preparations are called___

simple proteins

Gelatin products advertised as collagen in cosmetic creams and lotions are ___that may hydrate the skin

inactive collagen

has been found to inhibit the function of surrounding cells when applied to the skin

deeper wrinkles and decreased skin elasticity.

The skin cells’ ability to compound collagen decreases once in contact with this material. This can lead to

Polish chemists at the University of Gdansk

For the first time in history, it was possible to extract biologically active collagen in the 1990s due to experiments made by ___

freshwater fish skin extract

possesses a three dimensional structure of triple helix which remains bioactive up to the temperature of 27 degrees Celsius.

natural collagen

if used systematically, can stimulate the fibroblasts – cells responsible for new collagen synthesis.

telopeptides

are the major cause of immune reactions to proteins because they are unique to each individual.

atelocollagen

the telopeptides are removed from the collagen molecule, creating a far more viable, non-immunogenic form of the protein.

atelocollagen

is much higher in density than general collagen and is easily absorbed into the skin

collagen

a major structural protein of extracellular matrix (ECM) in skin

collagen

hydrophilicity, low antigenicity

less than pH 4.0

Collagen is typically dissolved in an acid solution of ___. This creates many restrictions for collagen as a cosmetic material, requiring low acidity (pH 5.5 – pH 6.5).

succinylation

Researchers enhanced the hydrophilic properties through ___, deriving a negative ionization of the collagen molecule.

negatively ionized collagen

creates an electrostatic interaction with the skin. In this way, absorbed negatively ionized collagen penetrates deep into the dermal and basal tissue, increasing the proliferation of the body’s own collagen and helping to activate dermal cell regeneration

20 types

how many types of collagen are present in living organisms?

collagen 1

ligaments, bone, cornea, teeth, fibrous cartilage, womb, and the intervertebral disc.

collagen II

Cartilage, vitreous cells, and intervertebral disc.

collagen III

Womb, skin, intestines, heart membranes, jaws

collagen IV

membranes