FM109 Final

national brand

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identifies the manufacturer of a product; widely distributed in many stores across the country

designer brand

acquire a special status that permits them to be sold at higher prices

private label

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one that’s owned by a retailer and found only in its stores; I.e. the American Rage line sold by Macy’s

retail store brand

the name of a chain that’s used as the exclusive label on most of the items in the store or catalog

tops, bottoms, dresses & jumpsuits, outerwear, swim

womenswear classification

misses, juniors, petites, womens’ or plus, maternity

womenswear size ranges

misses

includes regular even-numbered sizes 4 to 22; sometimes size 0-4

juniors

includes regular sizes 5 to 21

petites

includes misses; even numberes sizes 2P-22P

women’s or plus

includes even-numbered sizes from 14 to 28, or 14W to 28W

maternity

usually based on pre-pregnancy size or S/M/L/XL

haute couture/runway/design houses

Schiaparelli, Hermes, Mugler

designer signatures/luxury

Prada, Gucci, Dior, LV, YSL, Chanel, Celine, Chloe

brige

bridges the price range b/w design & better; i.e. Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Paul Smith

contemporary

new zone favored by new designers; i.e. Veronica Beard, Ganni, Rag & Bone

better

medium to high, appeals to the upper middle-class market; i.e. Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Coach

moderate

nationally advertised makers that appeal to middle-class consumers; i.e. Gap, American Eagle, Levi’s

mass market/budget

lowest price zone, known as promotional; i.e. H&M, Mango, Old Navy

quality & quantity of materials; worksmanship; amount and type of labor required in the production process; organizational structure of the business corp.; showroom, event..etc

major factors contributing to the wholesale price of a garment

markup

the calculated difference b/w the retail price and the cost price

menswear

the oldest of the domestic apparel industries; first to move from handworl to machine production

the industrial revolution

created a managerial class made up entirely of men

the look

a tailored dark-colored suit that men would wear in offices

slop shops; Brooks Brothers

the first RTW men’s clothing was made here by tailors for sailors who arrived in need of clothing to wear on land

civil war uniforms

helped to develop standarized sizing for menswear

post-civil war

custom clothing gave way to mass produced menswear

tailored clothing, furnishings, outerwear, work clothing, uniforms and others, sportswear

menswear categories

tops, bottoms, suiting & sportcoats/separates, outerwear, swim

menswear classifications

chest

men’s tailored clothing is produced in proportioned sizes, with the number ranges representing () measurements

short, regular, lon, extra long, portly short, large

men’s tailored clothing sizes

childrenswear

a business that’s fashionable not a fashion business

character and toy licensing, sports and corporate licensing

a growing business practices to boost sales

1. planning the line
2. creating the design concept
3. developing the designs
4. planning production
5. production
6. distributing the line

the product development process

innerwear/intimates

comfort-focused fabric and construction innocations

bras, lingerie, shapewear, loungewear, sleepwear

women’s innerwear categories

shapewear

girdles, corsets, and corselettes are foundational items

Nancy Ganz; 1988

invented the shapewear category with Hipslip

daywear; nightwear

lingerie has been divided into:

daywear

slips, petticoats, camisoles, and panties

nightwear

nightgowns, sleep shirts, nightshirts, chemises, pajamas

bodywear/activewear

clothing worn for sport or physical exercise for practical, comfort, or safety reasons

handbags & SLG’s; belts; cold weather; millinery; neckwear; eyewear

categories of accessories

millinery

bucket hats, balacava, baseball hats, cowboy hats, fedoras..etc

fascinators

a formal headpiece, usually a large decorative design attached to a band or clip

Luxottica

dominates eyewear

Nike

largest footwear shoe brand

capital investment, production issues, inventories

cost of entry of footwear is more expensive than other fashion categories bc:

fine, bridge, costume, and ethnic

categories of jewelry

fine jewelry

precious metals: gold, white gold & platinum; precious and sometimes semi-precious stones measure in carats

bridge jewelry

jewelry that forms a bridge in price, materials, and style b/w fine and costume jewelry; sterling silver---925 silver

costume/fashion jewelry

mass produced with coatings and faux gems, glass, wood, plastics, or low-cost metal

ethnic jelwelry

from all over the world specific to cultural origin

skincare, haircare, makeup/color cosmetics, perfume, hygiene, suncare, nailcare

categories of beauty

skincare

the most dominant segment of the beauty industry

in-store try on; sampling/ gift with purchase

beauty marketing

hard goods, soft goods, tabletop, giftware

categories of home

supply chain

the cumulative network of ppl, entities, activities, information, and resources involved in moving raw material, components, and finished products from original suppliers to end users

dropshipping

a unique supply chain method in which the retailer doesn’t actually own the product sold; the sellers transfers an order over to a supplier, who handles the actual shipping to the customer

fiber producer

tier 4 of the fashion supply chain

yarn producer

tier 3 of the fashion supply chain

fabric producer

tier 2 of the fashion supply chain

garment producer

tier 1 of the fashion supply chain

brands and retailers

tier 0 of the fashion supply chain

subcontractors

why most brands can’t trace their supply chain

supply chain traceability

whether a brand can fully trace their supply

supply chain transparency

a brand letting the customers know the full supply chain information

market

the place where goods are offered for sale and sold at wholesale prices

buyers

attend markets to choose the styles consumers will be wearing in a few months

domestic market

refers to the market in one’s own market

foreign market

refers to markets outside the US

market center

a city where retail products are offered and sold at wholesale

New York

US’s first market center for apparel; garment district

mart

a building or complex of buildings that houses a wholesale market that’s an exhibition of fashions that are ready to be sold to retail stores

publicity, information, and education

services of market centers & marts

trade shows

periodic exhibits scheduled throughout the year in regional market centers and some marts

market week

specific times when a market center or mart producers and designers gather to exhibit their new lines

France; ecole de la chambre syndicale

established in 1868; sets the standards and dates for the haute couture shows; represents its memebrs in arbitration disputes and seeking regulation of wages and working hrs

haute couture

creates profitability thru PR; established boutiques and licensing arrangements; RTW lines to attract larger market

pret-a-porter

ready to wear; money-making section of the fashion industry; standarized sizing and mass manufacturing created profitability

Italy

France’s rival; renowned for their superb knitwear, accessories, adn textiles; designers capitalized on the highly skillerd domestic laborers

London

best know for handcrafted suits from Savie Row; British Fashion Council

bespoke

men’s clothing that’s made to measure; 6-10 wks

* local laws and regulations
* efficiency of the transportation system
* availability and skill of the labor force
* tax system and exchange rates
* local and national customs
* current and political and economic climate

importers need the knowledge of:

* foreign fashion markets
* store-owned foreign buying offices
* resident buying offices
* commissionaires or independent agents
* imprt fairs in the US
* importers

foreign-made goods can be purchased at:

buying offices

external, regional offices to assist buying teams in procuring merchandise outside of their local geographic area

store owned buying offices

owned and affliated with only one store

associated/cooperative buying offices

jointly owned and operated by a group of privately owned stores

resident buying offices

third-party; does the buying and researching for many big producers and retailers in the same line of business

private label buying

* manufacturer designs merch, which the buyer then buys off of the manufacturer’s line
* buyer puts their own label on merchandise
* manufacturer agrees to not sell that merch to other buyers

specification buying

retailers provide standards and guidelines for the clothes they order and the manufacturer must adhere to that standard

counterfeits

inferior imitations passed off as the genuine article

black market

illict goofs or commodities that are in violation of official regulations are traded

gray market

goods that weren’t intended for sale in the country in which they’re being sold

trade agreements

reduce barriers to trade such as tariffs, subsidies, and embargoes that limit a nation’s ability to import or export goods

Godey’s Lady’s Book

first magazine for women; first publication to combine advertising & publicity

* industry news
* new fashion lines/collaborations
* reporting by and for the retailers

industry publications report on:

advertising agencies

create ads and place them in prints or online publications, TV, social media; prepare selling materials & manuals; perform market research

publicity

unpaid mentions on news, in media, talk shows, articles, etc

editorial credit

given when a celebrity wears fashions from a certain designer

public relations agencies

create the publicity by enhancing the client’s image and sales potential, issuing press release, creating social media campaigns, sponsorship, image building & damage control