Cultural history of fashion terms

Apollo Knot

a popular, very elaborate evening hairstyle during the Romantic fashion. The main element was a large knot of hair at the top of the head, usually decorated with jewellery, feathers etc.

Balloon sleeve

a short, full sleeve popular for evening dresses during the Romantic fashion

bandeau

a decorative head band (neoclassical period)

basque

a kind of decorative flounce at the back of the waist

bavolet

a decorative flounce at the back of the bonnet

Bertha collar

a collar in the shape of a flat flounce (early Victorian)

Bodice

an upper part of female dress, above the waist

Bonnet

a type of female headwear that encircles the face.

Brim

lower part of the hat or bonnet

Collar

part of the bodice next to the wearer's neck

Crown

upper part of the hat or bonnet

Cuff

lower part of the sleeve covering the wrist

Engageantes

Decorative undersleeves, usually white, popular in the Victorian period

Ferroniere

a jewelled head ornament popular in the Romantic style. It consisted of a decorative chain across the forehead, ofter adorned with a pendant in the middle

Fichu

triangular neck and décolletage kerchief, popular in the neoclassical period

Hem

a bottom part of the skirt

Leg of mutton

a type of sleeve popular during the Romantic style, also called the gigot. It was full at the shoulder and gradually narrowing towards the wrist.

Madonna hairstyle

a hairstyle popular in late Romantic and Victorian styles. The main element was a centre parting of the hair that was smoothed to the sides

muff

a hand-warmer, usually made of fur

pagoda sleeves

popular Victorian sleeves, opening towards the wrist, often worn with engageantes

pannier dress

18th century court style, with very broad front of the skirt

pelisse

or redingote - a longer tailored outer garment (neoclassical)

Pelisse robe

a type of Romantic day dress which looked like an outer garment

poke bonnet

a popular type of Victorian bonnet in a tubular shape

polonaise

a decorative short overskirt attached to the bodice

Ringlets

a hairstyle popular in late Romantic and early Victorian styles. The hair at the sides of the face was arranged in long vertical curls

ruff collar

a historicising collar, resembling Elizabethan times

Sausage curls

a popolar Romantic hairstyle with rolls of hair arranged on both sides of the forehead

spencer

a short outer garment (neoclassical)

stays

a type of corset with less boning, popular in the 1st half of the 19th c.

tippet

a narrow fur boa (neoclassical)

Van Dyck collar

a type of historical-inspired (mostly Stuart) collar popular during the Romantic fashion. It was large and flat, usually with triangular indentations, decorated with embroidery and lace

witzchoura

(from Russian/Polish "wilczura") - a fur, or fur lined coat for winter (neoclassical)