Studied by 2 people
Energy Density E
total energy per unit area of sea surface
Group Velocity cg
speed at which energy propagates
Wave Power P
rate of transport of energy
Shoaling
change in shape and behaviour of waves as they propagate into water of decreasing depth
Refraction
bending of a wave as it propagates over different depths
Bathymetric Contours
Contours showing lines along which water depth is the same
Wave Breaking
As waves move into shallower water, they feel the bed more, become less sinusoidal and finally break
Horizontal particle displacement S
The path in coastal waters of a water particle
Inertial force
from the pressure from the movement of the waves, obtained from linear theory
Drag Force
From tangential shear stresses
Interaction Force
Force from water being displaced when waves interact
Reflection Coefficient
Proportion of the wave that is reflected
Factors that influence overtopping
Freeboard, Seaward facing slope, Wave conditions at toe
Armour units
Used as part of coastal defences to dissipate wave energy and they must resist movement
Storm Surge
An elevation in mean water level due primarily to wind in a storm
Wave setup
An elevation in mean water level caused by wave breaking, maximum at the coast
Wave setdown
Diminution in mean water level prior to breaking, maximum at the break point
Beach Nourishment
The placement of large quantities of sand on a beach in order to counteract the effects of erosion
Nourishment Advantage
Aesthetically pleasing
Nourishment Disadvantage
Ongoing cost
Note 
Flashcard (102)