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Coastal Definitions / Advs + Disadvs
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20 Terms
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1
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Energy Density E
total energy per unit area of sea surface
2
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Group Velocity cg
speed at which energy propagates
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Wave Power P
rate of transport of energy
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Shoaling
change in shape and behaviour of waves as they propagate into water of decreasing depth
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Refraction
bending of a wave as it propagates over different depths
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Bathymetric Contours
Contours showing lines along which water depth is the same
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Wave Breaking
As waves move into shallower water, they feel the bed more, become less sinusoidal and finally break
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Horizontal particle displacement S
The path in coastal waters of a water particle
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Inertial force
from the pressure from the movement of the waves, obtained from linear theory
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Drag Force
From tangential shear stresses
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Interaction Force
Force from water being displaced when waves interact
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Reflection Coefficient
Proportion of the wave that is reflected
13
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Factors that influence overtopping
Freeboard, Seaward facing slope, Wave conditions at toe
14
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Armour units
Used as part of coastal defences to dissipate wave energy and they must resist movement
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Storm Surge
An elevation in mean water level due primarily to wind in a storm
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Wave setup
An elevation in mean water level caused by wave breaking, maximum at the coast
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Wave setdown
Diminution in mean water level prior to breaking, maximum at the break point
18
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Beach Nourishment
The placement of large quantities of sand on a beach in order to counteract the effects of erosion
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Nourishment Advantage
Aesthetically pleasing
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Nourishment Disadvantage
Ongoing cost
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