OCR A Level Geography - Coastal Landscapes

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Originally from here - https://quizlet.com/gb/698259891/ocr-a-level-geography-coastal-landscapes-flash-cards/?funnelUUID=4eeccf70-5a09-4725-8198-afe9d8476428

538 Terms

1

System

set of interrelated objects comprising components and processes that are connected together to form a unified whole

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2

Types of energy available to coastal landscape system

Kinetic

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3

Potential

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4

Thermal

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Geomorphic Processes

Natural mechanisms of weathering, erosion and deposition that modify landforms

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6

Open System

Energy and matter can be transferred from neighbouring systems as an input as well as to other neighbouring systems as an output.

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7

Inputs to a coastal system

Kinetic energy from wind and waves

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8

Thermal energy from heat of sun

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9

Potential energy from position of material on slopes

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10

Material from marine deposition, weathering and mass movement

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11

Outputs from a coastal system

Marine and wind erosion from beaches and rock surfaces

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12

Evaporation

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13

Throughputs in a coastal landscape system

Stores e.g. beach and nearshore sediment accumulation

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14

Flows e.g. longshore drift

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15

Equilibrium

Rate of sediment accretion is equal to rate of sediment removal

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16

When a systems inputs and outputs are equal

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17

Dynamic equilibrium

when equilibrium is disturbed the system undergoes self-regulation changes in order to restore equilibrium.

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18

Sediment Cell

Stretch of coastline and its associated nearshore area within the movement coarse sediment, shingle and sand is self-contained.

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19

Example of sediment cell

River Thames

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20

Why is it unlikely that sediment cells are completely closed?

Variations in wind direction and presence of tidal currents

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21

Sub-cells within the major sediment cells

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22

Milennia

Thousands of years

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23

Aeolian

Wind

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24

Wave height formula

0.36 square root of fetch

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25

What three factors dictate the size and direction of a wave

Wind speed

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26

Wind duration/fetch

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27

Wind direction

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28

Amount of energy in a wave in deep water.

P = H2T

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29

Crest

Highest surface part of a wave.

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30

Trough

Lowest part of a wave.

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31

Wavelength

Horizontal distance between two adjacent crests or troughs.

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32

Swell waves

waves generated in open oceans that can travel huge distances.

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33

Storm waves

Locally generated waves with short wavelength, greater height and shorter wave period.

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34

Spilling waves

Steep waves breaking onto gently sloping beaches

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35

water spills gently forwards as the wave breaks

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36

Plunging waves

Moderately steep waves breaking onto steep beaches

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37

water plunges vertically downwards as crest curls over.

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38

Surging waves

Low-angle waves breaking onto steep beaches

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39

the wave slides forward and may not actually break.

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40

How are waves created?

Frictional drag of winds over ocean surface

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41

Wave frequency

Number of waves per minute

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42

Process of wave break

Waves slow down as they encounter friction with sea floor

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43

Wavelength decreases

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Successive waves bunch up

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45

Deepest part of wave slows down more than top

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The wave begins to steepen as the crest advances ahead of the base

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When water is less than 1.3x wave height, the wave breaks

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48

Swash

Movement of a wave up the beach.

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49

Backwash

Wave drawn back down the beach.

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50

Constructive waves

Low in height

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51

Low frequency 6-8 per minute

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Spilling

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Strong swash

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Long wavelength means backwash returns to sea before next wave breaks so swash uninterrupted and retains energy

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Swash energy > backwash

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56

Destructive waves

Greater height

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57

Shorter wavelength

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58

Higher frequency 12-14 per minute

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59

Plunging waves

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Little forward transfer of energy

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Swash energy < backwash

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High energy waves (winter) impact on beach

Remove material from top of beach

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63

Transport it to offshore zone

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Reducing beach gradient

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Low energy waves (summer) impact on beach profile

Build up beach face

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66

Steepen profile

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67

Tides

periodic rise and fall of the sea surface, produced by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun.

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68

Tidal range

Significant in development of coastal landscapes

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69

In enclosed seas e.g. Mediterranean tidal ranges are low somwave action restricted to narrow area of land

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70

Tidal range influences where wave action occurs

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71

More spread out over bigger tidal range

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72

Spring tides

When the moon and the sun align, creating the highest tides.

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73

Neap tides

When the moon and the sun are at right angles to each other, so the gravitational pull is at its weakest so tidal range in low.

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74

Lithology

Physical and chemical composition of rocks.

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75

Clay lithology

Weak

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76

Bonds between particles are weak

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Basalt

Strong lithology

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78

Dense interlocking crystals

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Highly resistant

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80

Chalk and Carboniferous limestone

Predominantly composed of calcium carbonate

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81

Soluble in weak acids

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Vulnerable to carbonation

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83

Structure

Properties of individual rock types e.g. jointing bedding and faulting

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84

Primary permeability

Pores that can absorb and store water.

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85

Secondary permeability

Joints or faults in rocks.

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86

Concordant Coastline

single geology that runs parallel to coast.

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87

Discordant Coastline

Rocks lie at right angle to the coast.

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88

Strata

Angle of dip of rocks.

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89

Rip currents

Currents caused by tidal motion or waves breaking at right angles to the shore

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Cellular circulation generated by differing wave heights parallel to the shore

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Water from top of breaking waves with a large height travels further up shore and returns where lower wave heights have broken

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Modify shore profile by creating cusps which help perpetuate rip currents - channeling flow through a narrow neck

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93

Warm Ocean Currents

Currents that move from the equator to the poles and influence western-facing coastal areas

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94

Driven by onshore winds , greater effect on coastal landscape systems

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95

Ocean currents

Generated by earths rotation and convection

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96

Set in motion by movement of winds

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97

Severn eastuary tidal range

14m

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98

Sub-aerial processes

weathering and mass movement

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99

Why are currents significant?

Transfer of heat energy directly affects sub-aerial processes

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100

Terrestrial Sources

Sediment derived from the erosion of inland areas by water, wind and as as well as sub-aerial processes of weathering and mass movement.

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