plant fibres - cotton, linen etc

different origins of plant fibres

seminal hair (flower, fruit)
stem
fruit enveloppe
leaves
sap

characteristics of cotton

herbaceous plant of 1-1.5m or shrub/bush of 5-6m

soft filaments protecting the cotton seed
30 seeds per flower

length of filament is 12-60mm
white, yellow, red

production in China and India
also US and Brazil
evidence of growth in South America and India as early as 5000BC
in Middle East and North Africa as early as 3000BC

grows in tropical and subtropical climates
needs a lot of water - Aral Sea dried out

has many enemies like virus, bacteria, fungi, insects so needs treatments

garments made with cotton

casual: workwear, sportswear, military, underwear

formal: shirts

utility: household linen, cleaning, towels

cotton - casual clothes

workwear:
jeans, docker pants, overalls, tank top

denim:
de Nîmes
originally for tents then trousers during California Gold Rush
twill weave 3×1, coloured warp, off white weft
thick, dense, robust
raw denim is very stiff
special finishes like stone washing and bleaching
selvedge denim is woven in small width with red selvedge visible at side of leg, expensive and rare

military:
garbadine which is thick, dense, neat diagonals
trench coats, safari jacket, cargo pants, chinos

cotton - sportswear & underwear

t-shirts, polo shirts, tank tops

sports shorts

sweaters and jogging pants

underwear

socks

PJs

comfort wear

sweatshirts

fleece fabric
invented in 1920s on American campuses
1934: Hoodie by Champion
1950s: Russel Athletic: grey heathered fabric so white cotton and black polyester for better resistance

cotton - formal

soft, easy care, thin (8 layers at collar point)

poplin: thin, dense, sleek
Oxford: thicker, grainy look
twill: diagonals
piqué, Bobby: small patterns
chambray: blue & ecru, irregular look, plushy surface
flannelette: brushed shirting
seersucker: cloqué fabric

cotton - different qualities

length of fibres are 12-60mm

best varieties have fibres longer than 32mm (long and extra long)
for high end luxury

combing: sorting the longest fibres, eliminating short ones

extra long: Giza (Egyptian), pima and supime (southwest US), Sea Island (South US and Caribbean)

mercerised cotton:
chemical treatment causing swelling, untwisting and surface modification of fiber
more resistant, better to dye, shinier, less shrinkage
used for shirts and socks (Fil d’Ecosse)

properties of cotton

thin and soft
resistant
breathable
absorption, takes up dye
easy care
hygienic
not expensive

BUT
dries slowly
odours
shrinks
wrinkles
not insular
vulnerable to mildew
ethical considerations

cotton quality labels

pure cotton label
international logo

organic cotton
1-2% cotton production
no GMO, organically approved pesticides

… but more water, more surface bc reduced yield, harmful pesticides (copper sulfate), more frequent treatments

labels: GOTS, BIORE, EKO, FAIR TRADE

Better Cotton Initiative
crop protection, water, soil health, biodiversity, fibre quality, decent work, management system

linen - general characteristics

fiber extracted from stem of flax plant (80-120 cm)
grows easily
best linen from Caen to Amsterdam + Ireland

processing:
retting - getting rid of bark and releasing fibers
scrutching - removing debris, sorting fibers

Masters of Linen label guarantees quality

linen general properties

cool to the touch
regulates heat
mechanical resistance
low elasticity so stiffer, more springy
absorbent
rot resistant

BUT
wrinkles easily
costly

used for summer wear, furnishing fabrics, bed linen

2 qualities:
- dry spun: rough, irregular, stiffer
- wet spun: finer, softer, more regular

pineapple fiber

Piñatex by Ananas Anam
marketed as alternative to leather
fibers transformed into felt

plant fibre identification codes

cotton CO
linen LI
ramie RA
jute JU
hemp HA
sisal SI
coco CC
abaca AB (banana leaf)