Chapter 20: Manicuring 💅

manicure

A cosmetic treatment of the hands involving cutting, shaping, and often polishing of the nails, cuticle removal, and skin softening

Scope of practice (SOP)

The list of services legally allowed in your state. May or may not state the list of services you cannot legally perform.

Why should you have a thorough understanding of manicuring

-many clients request them

-provide clients with various services that will build loyalty

-some clients cannot maintain their own nails due to health issues or prefer having them done

-clients love the relaxation and pampering

-you must only perform services within your states scopes of practice for your license

Manicure station equipment

-manicure table

-client arm cushion

-adjustable lamp

-cosmetologist and clients chairs

-finger bowls

-disinfection containers

-autoclave

-gauze and wipe

-trash container

-ventilation system

Manicure table

Usually includes a drawer and shelf for storing disinfected implements and professional products

Client arm cushion

Must be made of materials that can be disinfected; covered with a fresh, clean towel for each client

Adjustable lamp

This equipment should be researched carefully to ensure it will not cause premature curing of nail enhancement products (LED lights an cause premature curing)

Cosmetologist’s chair

Should be selected for ergonomics, comfort, durability, stain resistance, and cleaning ease

Finger Bowls

Should be made of plastic, metal, or ceramic for proper disinfecting after each client’s use

Disinfection containers

Most equipped with a lifting tray or basket that allows the implement to be removed from the solution

(Products must fully submerge, disinfectant should never touch skin ie use tweezers, etc)

Autoclave

A machine that is required by some states to sterilize all multi-use metal implements

(Works like a pressure cooked, remains at optimal heat 250 degrees for 15 minutes to kill pathogens)

Gauze and cotton wipe container

Must have a lid to protect contents from dust and contaminants

Trash container

Should have a for-operated, self closing lid and be located next to your manicure station.(dispose trash often to prevent vapors being exposed to salon air)

Ventilation system

Required by OSHA Hazard Communication Standard where chemical services are performed

Optional manicure station equipment

Supply trays and baskets

Electric nail polish dryer

UV or LED Curing lamps

Terry Cloth Mitts

Supply trays and baskets

Holds professional nail products. Should be sturdy and easy to clean and cleaned and disinfected between clients. Allows the counter to be neat and effective.

Electric nail polish dryer

A nail polish dryer shortens nail polish dry time. Electric dryers have heaters and fans that blow air onto the nails to speed solvent evaporation from nail polishes which allows them to harden faster. Light bulb type dryers create warmth t speed drying and works like electric dryer. They may or may not have fans.

UV or LED curing lams

UV and LED curing lamps cure or harden products such as gel polishes and traditional hard gel products.

Terry Cloth mitts

These washable mitts are placed over a clients hands or feet after applying a penetrating conditioning product and a protective plastic cover. These are often used over paraffin to hold in the heat and over masks to enhance ingredient penetration.

Electric hand/Foot Mitts

Heated mitts available for hands and feet provide a relaxing addition to a manicure or pedicure. Typically an add on and can make for a higher cost service.

Paraffin Bath

Heating unit that melts solid paraffin wax into a gel-like liquid and maintains it at temperature generally around 125-130 degrees,

Implements

Tools used to perform nail services. Multi-use and single use are the two types.

Multi-use implements

Also known as reusable implements, must be properly cleaned and disinfected after each use. Often made of metal to ensure quality. Less expensive nickel-plated implements corrode during disinfection and sterilization.

Multiuse manicuring implements

Metal pushers

Nail nipper

Nail clippers

Nylon nail brushes

Improper use of metal pusher can cause

Nail plate grooving, nail growth problems, and microscopic injuries to the living tissue. These injuries are known as Micro-trauma - tiny often microscopic opening in the tissue that allow microbes to enter the skin and can lead to infection.

If your metal pusher has rough or sharp edges

Use an abrasive to smooth or remove them

How to hold your metal pusher

Like a pencil at a 20-30 degree angle to stabilize use your pink finger for support by balancing on hand holding the clients finger.

Nail Nipper

A stainless steel implement used to carefully trim away dead skin around the nails. Do not trim too much dead skin. Never use nippers to cut cuticles as this is a medical procedure.

How to use your Nipper

Hold your thumb around one handle and three fingers around the other, with the blades facing the nail plate. Use your index finger on the box joint to help control the blade.

Tweezers

Multitask implements for lifting small bits of debris from the nail plate , retrieving and placing nail art, removing implements from disinfectant solutions, and much more.

Nail clippers

Shorten the nails free edge. If the nail needs more shortening that the depth of routine filing, cut them with nail clippers. Clip from the sides towards the nails center to prevent stress to the sides and possible splitting of the nail.

Nylon Nail Brushes

Plastic implement has nylon bristles. Sometimes refers to a manicure brush

Used for

• by clients for hand washing

• By technicians for hand washing between clients

• During the manicure to remove filing dust or debris from the nail plate

• To wash and scrub implements clean before disinfection

Single use manicuring implements

Disposable implements, are used once on a client and then discarded preferably while the client is present.

-two or three way buffers or shiners

-plastic or metal spatulas and product applicators

-wooden pushers

-product application brushes

Abrasive Nail Files and Buffers

Generally single use. Abrasives come in different types and grits. The lower the grit the larger the files abrasive particles and the more aggressive its action.

Coarse-grit abrasives

(Less than 100 grit) are aggressive and quickly reduce ay surface’s thickness

Medium grit abrasives

(150-180 grit) smooth and refine surface, and shortens and shapes natural nails.

Fine grit abrasives

(240 and higher grit category)

They refine, buff, and remove very fine scratches.

Do not use

100 grit because it can damage the natural nails

File prepping

To remove damaging edges from the file. To remove the sharp edge take another clean unused file and rub against the file on each edge.

Two or three way buffers or shiners

Used in final steps of two color application of monomer and polymer (French nails) and on natural nails without polish.

How to create high shine

Begin with the lowest grit abrasive surface, move to the higher grit, and then finish with the shining surface (usually no grit)

Plastic or metal spatulas and product applicators

Single use wood or plastic spatula can be used to remove products from their respective container to prevent contamination. If the same movement of this type is used to remove dissimilar products it can alter the reduction chemistry.

Wooden pushers

Used to remove cuticle tissue from the nail plate, clean under the nails free edge, and apply products. Use small piece of cotton on tip to apply nail products.

Product application brushes

Used to apply masks, nail oils, or nail treatments. Do not nee to be cleaned and disinfected between uses.

Nail Service Materials

Materials used during a manicure include the service providers disposable safety products and other paper or cotton products used on the client. Single use

-gloves

-dust mask

-protective eyewear

-paper or terry cloth towels

-gauze, cotton balls, or plastic-backed pads