Waves and Tides

Flashcards covering destructive waves, the causes of tides, tidal range, Neap Tides, and Spring Tides.

What are the characteristics of destructive waves?

They are high, plunging waves with a short wavelength, occurring at 10-15 per minute, strong backwash, weak swash, and cause beach loss.

What effect do destructive waves have on a beach profile over time?

They will flatten the beach, even if initially associated with a steeper profile.

What causes the changes in water level known as tides in seas and oceans?

The gravitational pull of the moon and, to a lesser extent, the sun.

What is tidal range?

The relative difference in height between high and low tides.

When does a Neap Tide occur?

When the moon is at right angles to the sun, during the first or last quarter.

What is the effect of gravitational pulls during a Neap Tide?

Gravitational pulls act against each other, creating lower high tides and higher low tides, resulting in a small tidal range.

When does a Spring Tide occur?

When the sun and moon are in line, during a full moon or new moon.

What is the effect of gravitational pulls during a Spring Tide?

Gravitational pulls act together, creating higher high tides and lower low tides, resulting in a large tidal range.