Fundamentals of Fashion Merchandising Notes

Fashion

The style/styles of clothing and accessories worn at a particular time by a particular group of people

Style that has been accepted by most people at a given time - result of social acceptance, appeals to many groups 

• Fashion is a symbolic product

• Not every style is a fashion 

• 2 Types of groups that accept fashions 

  • High fashion and mass (volume) fashion

• Represents zeitgeist: defining spirit/mood of a particular period in history as shown by the ideas/beliefs of the time

6 “R”s of Fashion Merchandising

1. At the Right Place

2. At the Right Time

3. In the Right Quantities

4. At the Right Prices 

5. With the Right Sales Promotion 

6. For the Right Target Customer 

At the Right Place

The right companies

At the right time

Not too early, not too late

• Is this still trendy/will it be trendy soon

At the right prices

Don’t have to mark things down

With the right sales promotion

You know where to market 

• Don’t market on Tiktok for boomers!

Misconceptions of Fashion

1. Designers and Retailers dictate what the fashion will be and force it on vulnerable consumers 

   1. Reality: Consumers are “variety vultures” 

2. Fashion acts as an influence on women only 

3. Fashion is a mysterious and unpredictable force

Style

 Characteristic or unique appearance of a garment 

• Distinctive artistic expression/presentation

• E(g): men’s blazer, aviator, rain jacket

Come and go in acceptance, but once a style always a style

• Marilyn Monroe’s white halter, J Lo’s plunging neckline

Usually a creation by an artist or designer

• An aesthetic

Design

Interpretation of a style (in the detail)

• Version, treatment of a style 

• A sweatshirt is a style, but it exists in various designs 

  • Low neckline, with pockets, etc

  • Described by Style Number in the industry

Taste 

The prevailing opinion of what is and what is not stylish and appropriate for a specific occasion (timing is key)

Good Taste

Only considered to be worn by people whom it looks appropriate, and in the right timing of the fashion cycle

Classic

Styles/designs that satisfy a basic need over an extensive period of time

• Described by simplistic design that isn’t easily outdated

• Oxford button-down shirt, blazers, denim, cardigan

Fad

Fad: fashion that sweeps in and out of popularity with a specific group of population usually in one season

• Described by exaggerated feature/detail

• Usually begins in lower price range

• Miniature fashions

• Popularity increases, acceptance decreases, decline

• Follows same cycle as fashions but much faster

• Fads that become fashions: chemise dress

Trend

General direction of movement of a fashion

•  A few leading designers are showing a certain fashion

• Leading retailers are buying

• Fashion forward customers are buying 

• Identify trend from fad? 

  • Who’s doing it?

  • Fad is usually just mass-market 

  • Trend is opposite

  • Can be hard to differentiate

4 Elements of fashion design

1. Silhouette

2. Details

3. Texture

4. Color

Silhouette 

Shape/form, overall outline of a garment

1. Bell-shaped, bouffant

2. Bustle or back fullness

3. Straight/tubular

• Variations on tubular include slim, rectangular, a-line

• Evolve gradually through changes in detail

Details

Individual elements that define silhouette, give its form/shape

• Trimmings

• Skirt and pant length

• Shoulder, waist, and sleeve treatment

• When a trend of detail reaches a peak/extreme, it will see a reversal

  • Suit Trends: 40s-50s, wide shoulders and pads

    • 60s-70s, casual and unstructured

Texture

The look and feel of a material

• Woven, knitted, or non-woven

• Influences drape and color

Color 

Is the key factor in apparel selection for both sexes

• Symbolism

• The 4 color families

  • Naturals

  • Pastels

  • Darks

  • Bright

• Warm vs Cool

Natural Colors 

Colors derived from the sky, landscape, and water

Pastels

Colors lightened with white

Darks

Tones and shades of colors

Bright Colors 

High intensity colors 

• When clothes are more colorful, people wear fewer accessories 

Fashion Cycle

5 Stages

Innovation

• Introduction (indecent/shameless)

• Rise (outre)

• Culmination (smart)

  • Acceleration

  • Mass Acceptance

Decline Stages

• Decline (dowdy, hideous)

• Obsolescence (ridiculous)

Introduction

Fashion innovators purchase from the retailers that “lead” fashion

Rise 

Fashion leaders purchase from traditional retailers in their “better” departments

Culmination

• Fashion followers purchase from traditional retailers in “moderately priced” departments

• Fashion followers purchase from mass merchants

Decline

Fashion followers may purchase a few items at greatly reduced prices from discounters

Obsolescence 

No one is buying!!!!!!!!!!!!

Variations in the Fashion Cycle

Lengths of Cycles

• Declines are fast

• Products are speeding through the cycle

• Breaks in the cycle

• Long-run vs Short-run; Seasonal staples

• Consumer buying

Intangibles of Fashion

• Group Acceptance 

• Change 

  • Fashion changes because ideas about politics, religion, leisure, democracy, success, and age change

    • Futility of forcing change

    • Meeting demand for change

  • Mirror of the Times

    • Social Class

    • Lifestyle

    • Social expressions that document tastes and values of the time

Group Acceptance 

Intangible

Fashion = Group Approval 

Reference group behavior:

• Normative vs Comparative 

  • Normative: We want acceptance into that group

  • Comparative: We do NOT want to look like, point of reference

Change 

Intangible 

• Fashion Change Agents 

  • Politics, Religion, Leisure, Democracy, Success, and Growing Older

  • Fashion facilitates orderly change

  • Designers cannot force change

  • Designers will be successful if they can sense and anticipate changes

  • Govt CAN force change

• Meeting the demand for change

• Christian Dior’s New Look - accelerated fashion

• Fashions change to mirror cultural/social changes

  • Eco-friendly fibers, fabrics, sustainable practices

Principles of Fashion

1. Consumers establish fashion by accepting/rejecting styles offered

2. Fashions are not based on price, just because something is expensive doesn’t mean it’ll be successful

3. Fashions are evolutionary in nature; they are rarely revolutionary

4. No amount of sales promo can change the direction in which fashions are moving

5. All fashions end in excess (fast fashion)