[A.1] TEXTILES AND LEATHER

Textile

Any material made of interlacing fibers

Fabric

Any material made through the various processes such as weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding

Cloth

Refers to a finished piece of fabric that can be used for varying purposes such as a bedcover, etc.

Durability

Related to flexibility. Fabric is evaluated according to how it is able to withstand wear, pressure and damage to friction

Tenacity

Refers to tensile strength. Pertains to how well the fabric can carry its own weight without breaking

Elongation

A fabric’s stretching ability. Fabric is tested as to what degree it can stretch without breaking

Absorbency

How well will the fabric absorb or retain moisture. This is important since moisture absorption helps avoid static build up

Collection of dust or dirt

This happens when there is static build up in fabric

Hydrophilic

Water-loving, meaning fabric has special affinity for water, thus absorbs moisture readily

Hydrophobic

Water-fearing, meaning fabric repels water, thus does not absorb moisture creating bubbles on the surface

Hygroscopic

Fabric absorbs moisture without feeling wet

Resiliency

Refers to the fabric’s elasticity. This checks the fabric’s ability to return to its original shape after wear and tear

Fiber

Is the basic element of textile. It is the fine, hair-like strand that forms the basis of a yarn

Staple Fibers

Short fibers or soft yarns that are measures in centimeters or inches (due to natural damages caused by exposure and decomposition). All natural fibers except silk are staple fibers

Filament Fibers

Long and continuous fibers that are measured in yards or meters. It produces smooth strong yarns and synthetic fibers

Yarn

Formed by twisting fibers together to create a continuous strand

Spun Yarns

Composed of staple fibers that are twisted together

Filament Yarns

Composed of continuous strands made from either a spinneret generated synthetic fiber or from silk. It is commonly referred as BCF (Bulked Continuous Fiber) and are typical of nylon and polypropylene fibers

Natural Fibers

Fibers from animals, plants, or mineral sources and are produced seasonally and are susceptible to nature

True

True or false: All natural fibers except silk are staple fibers because silk is produced in a controlled environment while natural fibers are exposed to natural elements

Synthetic Fibers

Man-made type of fiber. These type of fibers are thermoplastic, meaning that they soften and melt when heated

Rayon

The first synthetic fiber

Cotton

It is the most widely used plant fiber. The thread appears spirally twisted. If twisted tightly, it becomes a stronger fiber than wool. Its fibers are fairly uniform in width more so than other natural fibers. Exposure to sunlight causes its fibers to disintegrate and is subject to mold and mildew in humid or damp climate. It burns at a slow rate and is one of the most versatile and most durable fibers. It has low elasticity, and resiliency and is one of the densest fibers. Known for comfort, it wicks away moisture along the fiber and through the fabric. It is also flammable and easily wrinkled, and is used more in the apparel industry than in commercial interiors

Shiny Cotton

Processed cotton that resembles satin. It is hydrophobic which makes it not suitable for towels

Organic Cotton

Organically grown meaning it is not synthetic or has no chemicals, pesticides, or fertilizers

Green Cotton

Washed with mild soap and not bleached although some dyes may be used

Carded Cotton

Removes impurities from the cotton, untangles the cotton fibers and readies it for spinning. 6th most expensive cotton

Combed Cotton

Carded cotton that has been further refined and combed to long desirable fibers from the shorter fibers and impurities in the cotton. 5th most expensive cotton

Upland Cotton

Also known as Mexican cotton. It is the 3rd best quality cotton in the market. These are chief cotton crop grown in the US

Long Staple Cotton

Superior to other cottons. It has fine long fibers that can be spun to make a softer, silkier, and more durable textile products. It is less prone to linting and shedding. 4th most expensive cotton

Pima Cotton

Also called Supima. Often compared to Egyptian cotton and is used in high quality bed sheets and other cotton products. 2nd best quality and expensive cotton

Egyptian Cotton

Extra-long staple cotton produced in Egypt and used for luxurious and upmarket brands worldwide. It has a more extensive weave and are particularly desirable because they are very soft and helps absorb water quickly. It has at least 100 per square inch upper thread count

Egyptian Cotton

Cotton used in suites in 5-star hotels

Kapok

Made from Java Kapok tree. It is too brittle to be spun into fiber but soft enough to be used as cushioning. It is also used for stuffing pillows, seat cushions, and floatation devices because it is lightweight and non-absorbent. However, it causes asthma

Flax

Oldest fiber ever woven into fabric. It is grayish in color with a silky luster. It is flame retardant, and reflects better heat than cotton. It also holds the color longer under strong light conditions and can be bleached without damage. It is usually used for table linens, draperies, and slipcovers

Linen

Made from flax. It is less soft and absorbent than cotton but is more resistant to milder. Usually used for summer wear. It is strong, non-elastic, brittle, does not lint, resists fraying and seam slippage, and wrinkles and creases readily

Jute

Resembles flax. It is harsh, brittle, lints badly, has UV protection, a good sound and heat insulator, has low thermal conduction and anti-static properties, and wrinkles easily. It is used for carpets, and linoleum backing

Burlap

Insect resistant (ex: coffee sacks)

Hemp

Cannabis Sativa plant. Used in ropes, sacks, and clothing

Manila Hemp

Abaca (Musa textillis plant). 5m long fibers are used for weaving cloth. The coarser fibers are used for cordage. It is also used for ropes due to its salt water resistant property

Ramie

China glass/Grass linen is an inexpensive fiber to substitute flax. It is strong, resists bacteria and molds, absorbent and dries quickly, non-elastic, and brittle. It resembles fine linen when thin and resembles canvass when bulky and coarse

Natural Rubber

Highly elastic, flexible, and impermeable to water and air. It tends to lose strength through age and deteriorates in sunlight

Jusi

Originally made from banana fibers but are now made from silk and piña fibers. Used for formal attires. It is mechanically woven and stronger than piña fabric

Jusi

Ecru in color and is translucent

Piña

Sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a fabric and is usually used as a table linen. It is heavy, rough, and itchy

Wool

Produced from sheep from Australia and varies in 1-18" in length. It contains excess amounts of oil which is removed during the fiber processing. It is resilient and elastic which can be used for carpets. It can also be reshaped by steaming or pressing. It is resistant to retaining odors, prone to shrinking, susceptible to insect damage, has no resistance to alkalis, must be dry cleaned, has good resistance against abrasion, antiseptic, soft, bendable, burns slowly, and is self-extinguishing. It is often used in luxurious public areas such as hotel and casino lobbies

Shetland Wool

From Shetland sheep that produces very fine, luxurious wool and was cultivated from their soft undercoat. It is warm and lightweight and is only available in limited quantitates and natural colors

Merino Wool

From Merino sheep. It is superior in shine, is soft, breathable, has excellent warm-to-weight ratio, very strong, elastic, soft on skin, and is not itchy and coarse like sheep wool because fibers are finer. It is nearly pure white in color that accepts dye very well

Lambswool

The finest and softest fleece and it comes from a lamb’s first shearing, usually when it is six or seven months old. It is smooth, strong, and flexible, and does not require much processing

Virgin Wool

First shearing. It is soft and fine. These are wool that hasn't been previously processed

Ordinary Wool

Reclaimed scraps from knits, broken threads, and other sources that may have damaged fibers

Recycled Wool

New or felted fabric scraps that are shredded and reused.

Worsted Wool

Fibers that are spun into compact, smoothly twisted yarns before weaving or knitting

Hair

From camel, goat, mohair, alpaca, llama, the vicuna, and horsehair; hottest fiber

Cashmere

From Kashmiri goat. Also known as Fiber of Kings because it is luxurious. It is a very warm fabric

Lamb

Cashmere is from goat, while wool is from [answer]

Pashmina

Well known in the fashion industry and is used by status seekers. Produced from Himalayan mountain goat and is very very warm

Mohair

From Angora goat and resembles human hair. Used for carpets, and wall fabric. It is a silk-like fiber or yarn

Shahtoosh

Luxurious. Also known as Ring scarf. It is warm enough to hatch an egg. Produced from Chiru antelope from Tibet and is illegal to buy and sell

Silk Fibers

Most beautiful of all fibers due to its marvelous, natural fibers. Made from silkworm cocoon. It is expensive because it is labor intensive and its average length is 600 yards. It is the strongest out of all natural fibers and is wrinkle resistant, fragile, and easily disintegrates

Sericulture

Term for the growth of silk moths for production

Organzine or Thrown Silk

Finest cultured silk yarn and is made from the longest filaments

Tram, Spunsilk, or Bourette

Silk that has less luster and sheen

Tussah

Made by wild uncultivated silkworms and are naturally tan in color, cannot be bleached, and has a rough texture

Duppion or Dupioni

Silk that comes from the fiber formed by two silk worms

Thai Silk

One of the finest fabrics in the world and has unique patterns and colors. It is thin and naturally yellow, expensive, and are usually used for throw pillows

Asbestos

Mineral in fiber form. It is completely fireproof and was used in firefighters apparel, ironing board covers, acoustic boards, and other hazardous industry applications. It is insoluble and has barbed edges that cause lung cancer which makes it no longer legal to use

Metal Fibers

Threads of gold, silver, or copper often woven into filmy casements or wall hangings. It does not tarnish. It is composed of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely coated with plastic. It is usually aluminum foil and is not affected by saltwater or humidity

Rayon

First synthetic fiber. Known as Poor man's silk or Artificial silk. It resembles linen when spun and woven on the linen system. Frequently blended with cotton or wool and is used as woven backing of velvet

Viscose Rayons

Blends well with other fibers. It is absorbent, dyes readily, is economical to produce, light and abrasion resistant, loses strength when wet, subject to mildew and will rot under sunlight, and has low resiliency.

Acetate and Triacetate

Synthetic fiber developed by Celanese Corporation

Acetate

Heat treated against wrinkling, washable, fast drying, does not shrink, flexible (great for draping), needs special dyes, and is luxurious. It is woven into satins, faille, crepes, brocades, and damasks. It is thermoplastic

Tri-acetate

Has good resiliency, greater stability and abrasion resistance compared to Acetate and is shrink resistant and has a crisp finish. It is used in permanent pleats, and for textured knits and tricots

Nylon

By Dupont Co. in 1933. It requires petroleum, carbon, air, and water. It is the strongest of all fibers and is elastic, resilient, has good abrasion resistance, does not absorb oil and some air borne dirt, easily dyed and washable, repel fungus, mildew and mold, stable, and deteriorates when exposed to sunlight. It is often used in carpets

Acrylic

By Dupont Co. in 1950 Orion. From coal, air, water, petroleum, and limestone. It is resistant to sunlight and oil-borne and air-borne dirt, durable, abrasion-resistant, exceptionally light, accepts dyes well, and is mildew and mold proof. It is usually knitted into fake furs

Modacrylic

By Union Carbide in 1949. From gas, coal, air, and salt water. It is easily dyes, washable, drip-dry, acid resistant, and flame resistant. Used for draperies and casement cloths

Olefins

By Hercules Inc. in 1961 was made from petroleum. It is inexpensive, resists stains and crushing, light, elastic, and lacks static generation. It is used as a carpet fiber

Polypropelyne

Most widely used olefin fiber

Polyethylene

First olefin fiber to reach commercial importance, used as upholstery for airplane seats

Elastoester

By Tenin Ltd. Rexe. Used for fitted furnishings. It is less elastic than spandex, moderately resistant to bleach, and has more silk-like hand

Polyester

By Dupont in 1953. It is resistant to air-borne dirt and oil-borne dirt, has low moisture absorbency, wrinkle resistant, has high strength, abrasion resistant, stable, washable and drip-dry, crease resistant, and is easy to maintain. It is knitted into upholstery-weight suede cloth and is used for hospital cubicle curtains, apparels, and home furnishings

Glass Fiber

Resistant to flame, strong, moisture resistant, has low abrasion resistance, and dyes well. It is best used as drapery or casement cloth

Polynude Nylon

Similar to nylon and is unaffected by sunlight, easy-to-care, and is wrinkle resistant. It resembles silk in luster, weight, color, feel, and drapability but can be ironed at high heat like cotton

Saran

Used for outdoor furniture upholstery and screening it can also be used in curtains, drapery fabrics, and wall covering when woven. It is unaffected by sunlight, easy-to-care, wrinkle resistant, abrasion resistant, and has high crease retention and dye ability

Spandex

By Dupont in 1950. It can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breakings and will still recover to its original length and can be permanently pressed and is soil resistant, washable, and does not discolor

Lycra

Popular brand of spandex by Dupont

Aramids

Alkalis, acids, and solvents have no effect on Aramids although it is difficult to dye

Nomex

High temperature resistant fiber that is used in firefighter's clothing and space suits

Kevlar

High temperature resistant and strong fiber that is used for upholstery cushion and fabric seating, and bullet-resistant vests

Microfibers

A synthetic fiber that is very fine, smaller than the diameter of a strand of silk. Used to make mats, knits, and weaves for apparel, upholster, cleaning products, etc. The ability to repel wetting, difficult to stain, and mimic suede economically are selling points for this fabric

Felting

A method of fabric formation; matting together fibers to form a web by moisture pressure and heat

Films

A method of fabric formation; produced originally in sheet forms through extrusion through a wide die forming molds or in between tollers

Knitting

Method of fabric formation:
Looping single continuous yarn into a series of interlocking loops

Cnytton

The Old English term for knitting

Reverend William Lee

Invented the first knitting machine

Wales

Vertical rows of stitches in knitting

Courses

Horizontal rows of stitches in knitting

Plain Stitches

Stitch resulting to a smooth face

Rib Stitches

Produce lines of wales on both side of the fabric. Elastic

Tuck Stitches

Formed by holding one loop on a needle while taking on one or more additional loops and then casting all of them onto another needle