AQA A Level Fashion and Textiles paper 1

properties of a staple fibre

Textured fuzzy matte traps air warm upstanding fibre ends

properties of a filament fibre

No gaps cool no trapped air smooth lustrous

first generation regenerated fibres

Viscose, rayon, acetate

second generation regenerated fibres

Modal, lyocell, triacetate

Properties of cotton

Strong breathable absorbent smooth good drape creases easily easy to care for flammable

Properties of linen

Strong breathable absorbent doesn't drape well creases easily good to handle flammable hard wearing

Properties of wool

Absorbent warm good handle doesn't crease may shrink in wash low flammability elasticity

Properties of silk

Strong absorbent good drape creases easily handles well soft comfortable cool and warm natural Sheen expensive loses up to 20% of strength when wet

Properties of polyester

Strong poor absorbency doesn't decompose versatile thermoplastic cheap resists bacteria dries quickly doesn't crease easy to wash

Properties of polyamide (nylon)

Strong when wet doesn't absorb moisture doesn't decompose versatile good elasticity thermoplastic can be damaged by sunlight

Properties of elastane

Very elastic poor absorbency strong keeps it's shape lightweight resists chemicals and perspiration resists sun and sea

Properties of acrylic

Strong weaker when wet poor absorbency thermoplastic inexpensive shrinks from heat soft crease resistant

characteristics of a brocade fabric

Woven jacquard fabric, may include metallic or shiny yarns

characteristics of tartan fabric

Twill or plain weave fabric, there are alternating coloured yarns on both the warp and weft to create the design, fabric has a checked or plaid appearance

structure of a denim fabric

White weft with a coloured warp and it is a twill weave

How is velvet made

Using a warp pile weave which has loops that are cut as part of the weaving process, the method weaves two cloths face to face with the third warp alternating between the two fabrics, a knife moves back and forth at the front of the loom and cuts the pile warp as the knife moves forward and is woven. This produces two separate pieces of velvet at the same time

How are corduroy and needle cord made

Using ribbed weft pile weaves which have cut loops producing after weaving, the pile runs parallel to the selvedge

silver in medical textiles

Naturally antibacterial, promotes healing, helps regulate body temperature, cool when wearer is warm and vice versa

reflective textiles

Minute glass beads embedded into fabrics, they reflect light back into viewer's eyes when light is shone on it, can reflect up to 100m

breathable fabrics

React to temperature, when temp rises fibre expands allows air in and moisture out which is called wicking, when temp falls fibres close up keeping body warm

chitosan and chitopoly

Fabrics made from crushed shrimps and cranes to soothe eczema

nomex

Used for fire fighters clothing, fire and chemical retardant, lightweight, strong, good for electrical insulation

Kevlar

5 times stronger than steel, lightweight, flame and chemical resistant

coolmax

A polyester fabric which moves sweat away from body to outer layer of fabric, dries faster than any other fabric

microencapsulation

Having health and cosmetic chemicals incorporated into the hollow centres of microfibres, the chemicals are released slowly and absorbed through the skin, for example when putting tights on, bubbles pop and moisturise legs

Properties of modal

New generation/ lyocell fibre, strong, sustainable, soft and breathable as it is cellulose based, very absorbent

Properties of tactel

Modified synthetic, strong, drapes well, can wick moisture away from the body

nap

It is a raised surface made by brushing the fabric surface after weaving, as a directional pile, the fabric will feel different when brushed in opposite directions

edge stitching

The edges of the turnings are turned over 5mm and stitched

overlocking

A quick way to beaten seams, it gives a strong neat finish, the overlocked can stitch the seam at the same time as trimming and neatening edges

French seam

It gives a neat and strong finish on fine and sheer fabrics

balance marks

They may appear as notches or dots that are used to match up garment pieces, they are used to indicate placement of gathers and pockets

grain line

It indicates straight thread of fabric, ensures and pattern is even

mass production

Producing large numbers of identical items, workers are skilled in one area, they make products that don't go out of fashion for example socks

batch production

Production of a specific number of products, workers work in teams focusing on one specialist skill but have the ability to do other roles

unit production system (UPS)

A complex conveyer belt that's a subassembly system that carries products from one area of manufacture to another, sometimes products don't have to come off the hanger for action to take place

quick response manufacture (QRM)

A subassembly system where workers operate in teams share tasks and equipment, each team is responsible for quality, it helps bring products to the market more quickly

vertical in house production

A high street retailer will design, make and distribute their own products not outsourcing to other businesses

just in time production

Where resources and stock aren't stored but are ordered as they're needed, it relies heavily on computer info and accurate records

subassembly lines

A section of a product is made elsewhere in the factory or in a different factory for example embroidered logos are made in one factory then sewn onto the product in another factory

offshore production

Garments are made overseas, some countries have specialist highly skilled workers which are needed

Eton hanging system

A computerised system that automatically moves the work from one worker to the next on overhead hanging rails

production planning and control (PPC)

A computerised system concerned with planning and controlling all aspects of manufacturing fashion products, it provides an electronic overview of materials sourcing, scheduling machines and people and coordinating suppliers and customers

computer aided design do (CAD)

Records exact coordinates and automatically alters patterns, can be used to create pattern pieces, can round off curves and straighten lines, enables you to recall old designs

use of ICT in pattern cutting

Use computer cutting table which is faster than cutting by hand, the design is transferred to the cutting table, a sheet of polythene is placed over different layers of the material, air is removed through a tiny holes in the table creating a vacuum, creates more precise and accurate cut and less watse

How does ICT help companies

Saves time as you don't have to look for patterns, saves space as patterns are stored online, gives designers access to visual ideas showing trends, can easily adapt patterns, let's designers draw virtually which is quicker and easier to remove mistakes

disadvantages of ICT

Work can be lost if computers break down, work is prone to viruses, it can be easily hacked, time consuming and expensive to train staff how to work computers

electronic data interchange

A system that allows computer to computer exchange of documents in a standard format between business partners, it is best known for the use of barcodes as they give data for the product

computer integrated manufacture (CIM)

It uses computers to oversee all stages of bringing a product to market

computer aided administration (CAA)

A system used to plan and carry out all aspects of administration

pattern design system (PDS)

A computer programme that makes pattern templates automatically from a 3D model

lay plan

A diagram showing how pattern templates are to be placed onto fabric ready for cutting out

demand activated manufacture

It uses technology to produce fashion products on demand as customers order them

virtual prototype

A 3D prototype modelled on a computer but not actually made

British standards institute do (BSI)

Sets standards that are accepted UK guidelines for industry, it ensures the consumer that it is acceptable quality, it makes sure the fibre content and their percentages are on the care label

lion mark

It was developed in 1988 by the BTHA, it is a symbol of toy safety and quality for the consumer and can only be used by members of the BTHA, the mark is put on toys that have been classed as safe for children to use

kite mark ensure

Quality and safety

use of textile labels

Have to be sold in native language of member state where garments are sold, have to include fibre content, country of origin, washing and care instructions, if product is flammable, if product is sustainable

6Rs of sustainability

Reduce the amount of materials and packaging, recycle for example charity and fibre recovery, reuse is up cycle or hand me downs, rethink is designing for the environment, repair is to extend a product's life, refuse is consumer choice not to buy

Explain why static electricity affects some fabrics but not others

Static electricity develops when fabrics made from dry fibres are exposed to friction like polyester and polyamide but some fibres aren't dry as they have high moisture so don't develop static for example wool and cotton

2 reasons for using piping on the edges of a cushion

To strengthen edges, for decoration

2 products in which flammability of fabrics is controlled by law

Children's nightwear, chair or sofa coverings

how a fabric can have a creased appearance

The fibres in the blend are thermoplastic so they soften with heat which allows them to be creased when soft and stay creased when cooled

adaptive clothing

Garments designed to meet the needs of people with limited mobility or dexterity

anthropometrics

The measurements of the size and shape of the human body

ergonomic mean

The relationship between people and the products they use for example how comfy it is to wear

inclusive mean

Universal design, people centred design and user focused

image mapping

It allows a designer to show how a pattern or colour might look on a garment

dart

A folded and stitched area of fabric that allows flat fabric to form 3D shapes

moulage

A method of moulding fabric around a mannequin to develop a pattern, pieces of fabric are draped across the mannequin and templates are made from the fabric pieces

yoke

A section of the pattern that fits around the neck and shoulders or around the waist

block patterns

A basic shaped template for a garment pattern

selvedge

The edge of a woven fabric with a higher density of warp threads that strengthen the edge and prevent it from unravelling

pattern notation

The written and drawn instructions and labels on a pattern

dot and cross paper

Paper for making patterns which has dots and crosses on it to guide straight lines when pattern drafting

pattern master

A ruler with straight and curved edges for measuring shapes and seam allowances and drawing patterns

terative design

A cycle of sampling, testing, analysing and refining the design that is continued until the final design is created

mixed media

Combining different drawing and colour materials in one piece of work

prototype

A first version of a design made to test the design to see if it works as intended and to find out if improvements are needed

closed loop process

The solvent used in fibre production is recycled back into the start of the process, it reused all waste made during manufacture

ahimsa

Known as the peace silk, it's produced by letting the silk moths hatch out of the silk cocoon rather than killing them

Eco label

A mark awarded by the EU to producers who voluntarily employ verifiable measures that significantly reduce the harmful effects of their processes and products

upcycling

Many unwanted textile products can be recycled because the products of reused rather than being broken down into the raw materials it's made from

greenwashing

When a company uses misleading or false claims to suggest they're doing more for the environment than they are

PET

Polyester which is recycled out of plastic bottles or recycled polyester

ECONYL

A type of nylon recycled from fishing nets and carpets

pesticides

Kill insects so more crops grow, make workers ill as they are carcinogenic, damages crop's soil

genetically modified crops

Limit the amount of pesticides so the crop's soil is more nutritious

properties of bamboo fabric

Eco friendly, high tensile strength, twice as soft as cotton

MORPHOTEX

A fibre that doesn't need dyeing due to its microscopic structure which reflects light as colour, it is a biomimetic fibre, it was achieved by mimicking the way colour is produced in the morpho butterfly's wings

biomimetic fibre

A man made synthetic material that replicates the natural biological objects in our daily life

Teflon

A surface finish that provides an invisible barrier to prevent water and oil based stains from penetrating the fibres, it doesn't affect the feel or appearance or breathability of the fabric

deodorising

Keeps the fabric fresh and reduces the frequency of washing required

ingeo made of

Corn starch which is grown sustainably

properties of hemp

4 times stronger than cotton, twice as resistant to abrasion, less likely to fade in sun, requires much less water than cotton, less chemicals when being grown, reduces nutrients in soil less than cotton, easy to harvest

critical path analysis

A management tool to work out the most effective way of completing a task to meet deadlines

critical path analysis used for

To aid production planning to meet schedules, give an overview of complex production runs, show how time is spent, monitor completion of tasks, help manage costs, cash flow and budgets

scrum

It encourages teamwork to find the best way to manage quality, it promotes effective interaction between those working in different aspects of the business, they plan, identify and resolve problems

six sigma

A business methodology used to improve quality management by making use of statistics, the aim is to reduce errors, defects and eliminate waste and lower costs, increase customer satisfaction and develop skills

product sampling

A system put in place to inspect samples from the production line to monitor and assure quality, inspectors randomly sample products and look for defects, if defects are found then a more in depth sample inspection will happen