Studied by 2 peopleDeposition
mainly occurs in calm areas as the wave energy is not high enough to erode or transport material.
Corrasion
when waves hurl material such as sand or rocks against the shore, or when waves roll particles back and forth across the shore.
Corrosion
when weaker layers of rock dissolve or disintegrate because of sea salt.
Hydraulic action
the force of the waves hitting the shore.
Corrasion and erosion
are more common in high energy areas.
Hydraulic action
the force of the waves hitting the shore
Arch
Two caves erode enough to join together
Stack
A hard, rocky formation remains after the softer rock in adjoining bays has eroded
Rocky Platform
A notch forms at the base of a cliff face when undercut by waves
Spilling Waves
where the sea bed rises gently and the waves rise and break gently over a distance of several metres
Plunging Waves
Waves curl over at the crest
Surging Waves
where waves run up a steep slope without appearing to break
constructive waves
deposit sand and sediment
destructive waves
takes sediment away
Wave climate
How waves vary over time and space. Waves are affected by season and wind direction, and wave climate is how the waves vary over the seasons.
Swash
The part of the wave that carries sediment onto the beach
Backwash
Backwash is when water returns down the beach to the sea.
Long shore drift
the movement of material along the shore by wave action. It happens when waves approach the beach at an angle.
Rip
localised, fast-flowing currents that run out towards the sea. Rip currents depend on the height and duration of the waves and on the contours and shapes of the seabed.
Tide
the high and low points where waves break on the beach. They are determined by the gravitational force of the moon and the sun acting on the rotating earth
Storm Surge
It is a rise in sea level, resulting from the effects of intense storm systems.
Note
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