Geography - processes that shape coastal zones

Deposition

mainly occurs in calm areas as the wave energy is not high enough to erode or transport material.

Corrasion

when waves hurl material such as sand or rocks against the shore, or when waves roll particles back and forth across the shore.

Corrosion

when weaker layers of rock dissolve or disintegrate because of sea salt.

Hydraulic action

the force of the waves hitting the shore.

Corrasion and erosion

are more common in high energy areas.

Hydraulic action

the force of the waves hitting the shore

Arch

Two caves erode enough to join together

Stack

A hard, rocky formation remains after the softer rock in adjoining bays has eroded

Rocky Platform

A notch forms at the base of a cliff face when undercut by waves

Spilling Waves

where the sea bed rises gently and the waves rise and break gently over a distance of several metres

Plunging Waves

Waves curl over at the crest

Surging Waves

where waves run up a steep slope without appearing to break

constructive waves

deposit sand and sediment

destructive waves

takes sediment away

Wave climate

How waves vary over time and space. Waves are affected by season and wind direction, and wave climate is how the waves vary over the seasons.

Swash

The part of the wave that carries sediment onto the beach

Backwash

Backwash is when water returns down the beach to the sea.

Long shore drift

the movement of material along the shore by wave action. It happens when waves approach the beach at an angle.

Rip

localised, fast-flowing currents that run out towards the sea. Rip currents depend on the height and duration of the waves and on the contours and shapes of the seabed.

Tide

the high and low points where waves break on the beach. They are determined by the gravitational force of the moon and the sun acting on the rotating earth

Storm Surge

It is a rise in sea level, resulting from the effects of intense storm systems.