(textiles) chapter 4

yarns & sewing threads

yarns

groups of fibers twisted together to form a continuous strand

categories of yarn classifications

spun yarns, filament yarns

process of spun yarns

fibers twisted or spun so that it holds together

carding

straightens, makes into thin web or sliver

combing

removes short fibers

two types of linen yarns

tow, line

tow

short fibers

line

long fibers

types of wool fabrics

woolens, worsteds

woolens

carded yarns

worsteds

combed yarns

woolens e.g.

tweed, bulky sweaters

worsteds e.g.

gabardine

filament yarns

from filament fibers

high twist necessary for filament yarns

false

filament yarns may be made of

monofilaments, multifilaments, or microfilaments

multifilament yarns

more than one filament, held with minimal twist

microfilament

microdenier ≤ 1 dpf (denier per filament)

spun yarns end use

warmth, softness, lightness

filament yarns end use

smoothness, luster

TPI

turns per twist

soft twist

spun yarns with low twist

hard twist

spun yarns with high twist

two different spun yarns types of twist

S, Z

crepe twist

filament yarns with high twist

filament yarns usually have low twist

true

ply yarn

two or more single yarns twisted

stretch yarn categories

power-stretch, comfort-stretch

novelty yarns

not uniform in thickness

chenille yarns

yarns that have soft pile protruding from surface

yarn numbering stystems (2)

direct (weight per fixed length), indirect (length per fixed weight)

denier system

direct system, higher denier means thicker yarn

300-10-1/2 Z

300 denier, 10 filaments, ½ TPI of Z twist

thicker fiber a. 400-40-1/2Z or b. 300-10-1Z

B, only 10 filaments required

tex system

direct system

yarn count system

indirect system, according to weight