Milady Facials

facial

A professional skin treatment that improves the condition and appearance of the skin

Skin analysis

A very important part of the facial treatment because it determines what type of skin the client has, the condition of the skin, and what type of treatment the client's skin needs.

Consultation & skin analysis

all facial treatments should begin and end with this

Contraindications

Condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects.

Upward circular movements

During an analysis procedure, cleansing milk is applied to the skin using:

Outward on upper lid and inward on lower lid

When working around the eyes move:

Magnifying lamp

A magnifying lens surrounded by a circular light, providing a well-lit, enlarged view of the skin.

how oily or dry the skin is

Skin type is determined by:

hereditary

skin type is:

the size of the pores and is hereditary

the amount of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands determines:

oily skin areas

Obvious pores on the surface of the skin indicate

Alipidic

Means lack of lipids, and describes skin that does not produce enough sebum, indicated by absence of visible pores.

dehydration

indicates a lack of moisture in the skin, it may be flaky or dry looking with small, fine lines and wrinkles

large pores, skin appears shiny or greasy

oily skin that produces too much sebum will have:

open comedones

Also known as blackheads; follicles impacted with solidified sebum and dead cell buildup.

closed comedones

whiteheads; hair follicles impacted with solidified sebum and dead cell buildup that appear as small bumps just underneath the skin's surface

ostium

Size of the follicle opening

extraction

A procedure in which comedones are removed from the follicles by manual manipulation.

yes because it's hereditary

is acne considered a skin type?

Anerobic

cannot survive in the presence of oxygen

pustules

pimples with a pus head

hyperpigmentation

dark blotches of color caused by sun exposure or hormone imbalances

rosacea

a chronic hereditary disorder that can be indicated by constant or frequent facial blushing

telangiectasis

distended or dilated surface blood vessels

couperose

areas of skin with distended capillaries and diffuse redness

very gentle products and treatments avoiding any treatment that releases heat or stimulates the skin

how should you treat a client who has rosacea?

sun damaged skin

skin that has been chronically and frequently exposed to sun over the client's lifetime, it has many areas of hyperpigmentation, lots of wrinkled areas, and sagging skin from damage to the elastic fibers

cleansing milks

non foaming, lotion cleansers designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin types and to remove makeup. they can be applied with the hands or an implement, but they just be removed with a dampened facial sponge, soft cloth, or cotton pad

foaming cleansers

cleansers containing surfactants that cause the product to foam and rinse off easily. usually for combination or oiler skin types

toners

also know as fresheners or astringents, are lotions that help rebalance the pH and remove remnants of cleanser from the skin

exfoliant

products that help bring about exfoliation

exfoliation

the removal of excess dead cells from the skin surface

stratum corneum of the epidermis

cosmetology professionals must not perform treatments that remove cells beyond the:

mechanical exfoliants

Products used to physically remove dead cell buildup

Gommages

Also known as roll-off masks; peeling creams that are rubbed off of the skin.

microdermabrasion scrubs

Scrubs that contains aluminum oxide crystals.

chemical exfoliants

Products that contain chemicals that either loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup. either used for a short period of time or combined with a moisturizer

Alpha hydroxy acids

Popular exfoliating chemicals that are gentle, naturally occurring that remove dead cells by dissolving the bonds and intercellular cement between cells

20-30%

Salon AHA exfoliants, also know as peels, contain larger concentrations of AHA

enzyme peels

Also known as keratolytic enzymes or protein-dissolving agents; a type of chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin.

Cream type enzyme peel

(gommage) they usually contain papain they are applied to the skin and allowed to dry for a few minutes they form a crust and then is rolled off the skin

the most popular type of enzyme peel

powder that is mixed with water that doesn't have to dry and can be used during steam treatments in the treatment room and applied to the face.

moisturizer

product that help increase the moisture content of the skin surface; helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

humectants

Also known as hydrators or water-binding agents; ingredients that attract water.

emollients

Oily or fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin

lotion form and contain smaller amounts of emollient

moisturizers for oily skin

heavier cream form and contain more emollients which are needed by alipidic skin

moisturizers for dry skin

night cream

more intensive products designed for use at night to treat specific skin problems, generally heavier than day-use products and they theoretically contact higher levels of conditioning ingredients

serums

Concentrated products that generally contain higher concentrations of ingredients designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions.

ampoules

Individual doses of serum, sealed in small vials.

massage creams

Lubricants used to make the skin slippery during massage.

masks

concentrated treatment products often composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish the skin

clay-based masks

Oil-absorbing cleansing masks that have an exfoliating effect and an astringent effect on oily and combination skin, making large pores temporarily appear smaller.

gel masks

Used for sensitive or dehydrated skin; contain hydrators and soothing ingredients

paraffin wax masks

Specially prepared facial masks containing paraffin and other beneficial ingredients; melted at a little more than body temperature before application. applied over a treatment cream

modelage masks

Facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient. mixed with cold water immediately before application and applied about 1/4 in. thick.

105 degrees Fahrenheit

what modelage masks heat up to

heat generated by a modelage mask:

increases blood circulation and is very beneficial for dry, mature skin or for skin that looks dull and lifeless

gauze

A thin, open-meshed cotton fabric that is used to hold mask products on the face is:

massage

Manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing, pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain.

the amount of pressure, the direction of movement, and the duration of each type of manipulation involved

the impact of a massage treatment depends on:

insertion to origin

Pressure in massage is usually directed from the:

insertion

the portion of the muscle at the more movable attachment

origin

portion of muscle at the fixed attachment

effleurage

a light, continuous stroking movement applied in a slow, rhythmic manner with the fingers to the palms. no pressure is used

effleurage

every massage should begin and end with

petrissage

a kneading movement performed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue with a light, firm pressure

fulling

a form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted, and spread out; this technique is used mainly for massaging the arms

friction

a deep rubbing movement in which you apply pressure on the skin with your fingers or palm while moving it over an underlying structure

rolling

pressing and twisting the tissues with a fast back and forth movement

wringing

a vigorous movement in which the hands, placed a little distance apart on both sides of the client's arm or leg and working downward, apply a twisting motion against the bones in the opposite direction

tapotement

also know as percussion, consists of short, quick tapping, slapping, and hacking movements

slapping

keeping your wrists flexible allows your palms to come in contact with the skin in light, firm, and rapid _____ movements

hacking

a chopping movement performed with the edges of the hands

motor point

a point in the skin that covers the muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of that muscle

normal skin or scalp can be kept in excellent condition with the help of a weekly massage, accompanied by proper home care

as a general rule:

feather them off and then gently replace them with feather-like movements

should it become necessary to remove your hands:

light tapping movement

work from the chin to the earlobe, from the mouth to the ear, from the nose to the top of the ear, and then across the forehead

use downward movements in the beard area

for male clients:

steamer

heats and produces a stream of warm steam that can be focused on the client's face or other areas of skin. it can help soften the tissues making them more accepting of moisturizers and other treatment products. it also helps to relax and soften follicle accumulation such as comedones and clogged follicles making them easier to extract

distilled water

only this type of water should be used in most streamers to avoid mineral buildup in the machine

brushing machine

a rotating electric appliance with interchangeable brushes that can be attracted to the rotating head

smaller and softer brushes

what type of brushes are used for the face

a fairly thick layer of cleanser or moisturizer

this should be applied before using the brushing machine

electrotherapy

the use of electrical currents to treat the skin

electrode

an applicator for directing the electric current from the machine to the client's skin

high frequency machines

require the use of only one electrode

galvanic machine

have two positive electrodes called an anode and a negative electrode called a cathode

anode

positive, red

cathode

negative, black

desincrustation

the process of softening and emulsifying hardened sebum stuck in the hair follicles

make extractions of the impactions and comedones much easier

electro therapy treatments:

the current forces the product deeper into the follicle and produces a chemical reaction that helps loosen the impacted sebum

when the negative pole is applied to the face over a desincrustation product:

active electrode

the one that should be applied to the skin

iontophoresis

the process of using galvanic current to enable water-soluble products that contain ions to penetrate the skin

microcurrent

a type of galvanic current treatment using a very low level of electric current

high frequency current

Discovered by Nikolas Tesla, and can be used to stimulate blood flow and help products penetrate.

glass and contain various types of gas, such as neon, which light up as a color when current is flowing through the electrode

electrodes for the high frequency machine are made of:

Direct application

When the glass electrode is applied directly onto the clients skin.

Indirect application

also known as Viennese. When the client holds the glass electrode