* describes the height, steepness and shape of the landscape * determined by geology
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how waves form
* by wind blowing over the sea * friction with the surface with the surface of the water causes ripples that develop into waves * tsunamis form when earthquakes or volcanic eruptions shake the seabed
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constructive waves
* formed by storms often hundreds of kilometres away * common in summer * low waves with wave crest far apart * gently sloping wave front * breaking waves push large amounts of sand and pebbles up the beach * gently sloping beach
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destructive waves
* formed by local storms close to coast * common in winter * waves close together * waves become high with steep wave front * breaking waves plunge down onto beach with little forward swash * strong backwash erodes sand and pebbles and can destroy the beach * steep beach
* rockfall - rock breaks away often due to freeze thaw * landslide - blocks of rock slide downhill * mudflow - saturated soil and weak rock flows downhill * rotational slip - slump of saturated soil and weak rock along a curved surface
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coastal erosion
* solution - dissolving of soluble chemicals in rock * corrasion - rock fragments picked up by the sea are thrown at cliff * abrasion - sandpapering effect of pebbles * attrition - rock fragments carried by sea knock against each other becoming smaller * hydraulic power - power of waves hit a cliff
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sediment transportation
* solution - dissolved chemicals * suspension - particles suspended within water * traction - large pebbles rolled along seabed * saltation - bouncing of particles too heave to be suspended
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longshore drift
* waves approach at an angle * sediment moves along coast in a zig zag pattern * direction of approaching waved driven by prevailing wind
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coastal erosion landform - headlands and bays
* tougher, resistant bands of rock are eroded to form headlands * weaker rocks eroded more easily to form bays
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coastal erosion landform - caves, arches and stacks
* lines of weakness vulnerable to erosion * abrasion and hydraulic action form a cave * erosion lead to 2 back to back caves forming an arch * arch eventually collapses from erosion and weathering * leaves isolated stack * stack eroded and collapses leaving a stump
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coastal erosion landform - cliffs and wave cut platforms
* when waves break against cliff erosion will form a wave cut notch * over time notch deepens undercutting cliff * overlying cliff collapses * repetition of this so cliff retreats * leaves a wave cut platform
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coastal deposition landforms - beaches
* deposits of sand and shingle * found in bays and created by constructive waves * along high energy coasts sand is washed away
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coastal deposition landform - spits and bars
* longshore drift transports sand along coast * change in shape of coastline * spit grows from the land out into the sea * spit exposed to changes in wind and wave directiob cause it to curve * saltmarsh forms in sheltered water behind the spit as river mud deposits build up * bar is spit across a bay