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what knot do you use as the climber?
figure 8 loop
waist loop requirements
tight enough to not be pulled down like a pair of pants
what is the bight
the bend of rope
when tying knot, fingers are what?
pointing down and thumb is up
how many parallel lines of two?
five
first climbers check
waist loop above hip bone
second climbers check
speed buckle is double backed
third climbers check
rope through both tie in/hard points
fourth climbers check
knot is a fist distance or less from the tie in points
fifth climbers check
knot is correct and there's five parallel lines of two
sixth climbers check
tail has to be two fists or more or can untie itself
belayer
connects the rope to your harness
carabiner
back piece aka the spine
atc
black diamond
What is the function of the screw gate on a carabiner?
It has a nose with a sleeve underneath.
Where is the basket located on a carabiner?
On top.
Where is the trophy located on a carabiner?
On the bottom.
What is the spine of a carabiner?
The back of the carabiner.
brake hand is where?
below the belay device
2nd bend is what position
brake position
pbus method
pull, break, under, slide
feeler hand is at what level
nose level
on belay, belay on
pull slack out of system and do all checks already
climbing, climb on
100 percent attention to climber
what is up rope
pull all the slack up
what is slack
too much slack
tension, tension on
let go to go down
ready to lower, lowering
lowering down
first concept of balance
whatever hand you want to move, weight the same side foot
barn door
when you swing out of balance
how to avoid barn dooming
always have three points of contact
what are your hips
your center of gravity
sequencing
mapping it out before climbing it
matching
putting both of them on the same hold
bumb
two of the same side in a row
use which part of your foot to step on holds?
toe box in the center of holds
jugs
big hand holds
sloper
hard to hang on to, kinda rounded
how to use slopers
use friction and as much skin contact and press
crimps
small holds with only portion of fingers on it
footholds
not for grabbing, tiny holds for feet
pockets
isolate your fingers with hole in middle
pinches
use your whole finger and thumbs
lie back
positional hold
volume
any giant hold that changes the angle of the wall
why are names of holds important?
type of movement, sequencing, and directions
name of the usable surface of a hold
positive side
under cling
usable surface pointing towards the ground
side pull
the hold is placed so that you pull in toward yourself
less efficient pose?
arms bent, hip in
two main positions
arms straight, hip out and arms straight, hips in
coke can hold
right amount of tension to grip
static movement
slow, controlled movement
dynamic movement
body momentum to facilitate the moves
second concept of balance
if the hold you are going to had a hold underneath it and you can put your foot on it and weight it, leave your hips open facing the wall and hips are parallel to the wall
what should you do if the hold you are already hanging onto has a hold underneath it?
close your hips facing away from the wall
flagging
using my foot for counterbalance
belayer check 1
waist loop above hip bone
belayer check 2
speed buckle is double backed
belayer check 3
carabiner is through the belay loop
belayer check 4
carabiner is locked. a physical verification is required
belayer check 5
rope and keepers strap through the carabiner
belayer check 6
rope is through one portal, friction side down, and on the brake hand side of the device for atc
belay device
the atc and locking carabiner
pull
pull all slack out as climber moves up the wall
break
maintain for under slide motion and keeping closed fist on brake rope at all times
under slide
keep brake hand below atc, grab the rope with your opposite hand under your brake hand and slide your brake hand up
feeling hand side of the rope
helps take in slack, temporary brake hand, and may let go of rope
brake hand side
never lets go of the rope, helps take in slack, controls lowering of climber
on belay
belay is on
climbing
climb on
tension
tension on
ready to lower
lowering
off belay
belay off
figure 8 knot step 1
measure 3-4 feet of rope
figure 8 knot step 2
make a bight of rope
figure 8 knot step 3
go around bight with loose end of rope and through back of the bight
figure 8 knot step 4
take loose end of rope and trace it through the tie in points
figure 8 knot step 5
retrace the knot all the way back through, creating a double figure 8