Chapter 3 Part 2: The World Ocean

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41 Terms

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stratification

water layers with different densities; densest water sinks to the bottom, least dense remains at the surface

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water column

a vertical section of water extending from the surface down

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temperature distribution

deep water: cold and dense

surface water: usually warm and less dense

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profile

graph depicting temperature, salinity, or other characteristics at various depths

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pynocline

zone of quick density increase with depth

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thermocline

zone of rapid temperature drop with depth

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halocline

zone of rapid salinity increase with depth

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stability factors

low stability: more dense water over less dense water leads to easier mixing

high stability: increased density with depth limits mixing

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downwelling

occurs when surface water becomes denser than deep water; happens typically in winter when cooling increases density

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upwelling

winds blow across the ocean, pushing surface water away, causing deeper nutrient-rich water to rise

resulting water is colder and rich in nutrients

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thermohaline circulation

“great ocean conveyor belt”

movement patterns of water masses influenced by temperature (thermo) and salinity (haline)

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surface layer

mixed layer from surface down to 200 meters, influenced by wind, waves, and currents

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intermediate layer

from 200 to 1,500 meters, characterized by thermocline with rapid temperature drop

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deep/bottom layers

below 1,500 meters, uniformly cold

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ocean motion

constant motion through waves, currents, and tides

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coriolis effect

earth’s rotation causes moving objects to bend rather than travel in a straight line

deflects winds and currents: right (clockwise) in the northern hemisphere, left (counterclockwise) in southern

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trade winds

known for being the steadiest winds on earth, moving from east to west in the tropics

winds bent 45 degrees towards the equator due to the Coriolis effect

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westerlies

found at middle latitudes, moving from west to east

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polar easterlies

at high latitudes, these winds are variable and move from east to west

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ekman spiral

surface winds initiate surface current at a 45 degree angle due to the Coriolis effect; this movement propagates to layers below, creating an angled flow

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equatorial currents

wind-driven surface currents moving parallel to the equator under trade winds’ influence

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gyres

large, circular systems formed by the combination of equatorial currents, influenced by the Coriolis effect

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crest

highest part of a wave

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trough

lowest part of a wave

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wavelength

distance between crests

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wave height

vertical distance from trough to crest

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period

time taken for two successive crests to pass a fixed point (in seconds)

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generative forces

created primarily by wind; stronger and longer winds produce larger waves

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fetch

distance over which the wind blows; longer fetch results in bigger waves

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seas (wind waves)

formed during storms, sharp crests and flat troughs

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swells

after the storm, waves smooth out into rounded crests and troughs, exhibiting ideal circular motion

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tides

rhythmic rise and fall of sea levels, heavily impacting nearshore sea life

influenced by the gravitational forces of the moon and sun along with earth’s rotation

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centrifugal force

causes water to bulge outward on the side away from the moon

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gravitational force

pulls water toward the moon, creating tidal bulges

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spring tides

occurs when the earth, moon, and sun align (full and new moons); leads to highest high tides and lowest low tides (twice monthly)

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neap tides

result when the sun and moon are at right angles (quarter moons); leads to lower high tides and higher low tides (also twice monthly)

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semidiurnal tides

two high and two low tides daily

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mixed semidiurnal tides

successive high tides at different heights

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diurnal tides

rare, characterized by one high and one low tide daily

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what three factors affect wave height?

wind speed, wind duration, and fetch

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tide table

a table indicating the times of high and low tides at a particular place