The World Ocean (Ch. 6)

In the diagram above, what letter is the wave height?

A

In the diagram above, what letter is the wavelength?

C

The wave base depth is:

One-half the wavelength

A wave has a period (T) of 10 seconds. It's frequency (f) is _____ per second:

0.1

When a wave enters shallow water, it first begins to slow down when the water depth is:

equal to ½ the wavelength

When waves enter shallow water, their characteristics change how?

They slow down, get closer together, and get taller

Wave dispersion occurs when:

Longer wavelength waves move out ahead of shorter wavelength waves because of their faster speed

When a wave approaches the shoreline at an angle, the part of the wave in shallower water moves slower than the part in deeper water, causing the wave to have a bend in it. This is called:

Refraction

Surfers love to catch ____ breakers, so they will work a beach with a ____ sloped seafloor:

Plunging/moderately

A standing wave or a seiche can form where?:

In an estuary or semi-enclosed bay & in a lake

The speed of a deep-water wave is determined by its ______.

wavelength

A ______ breaker is the wave favored by surfers.

Plunging

The three factors that affect the energy in an ocean wave are:

wind speed, fetch, and duration of wind

The speed of a shallow water wave is determined by what?

Water depth

The depth to which the circular motion of a passing surface ocean wave is felt is called what?

wave base

If you stood at the end of a pier with a stop-watch, and you counted the number of waves that hit the pier piling in one minute, and calculated the #waves per minute, this is called what?

frequency

An ocean wave requires which one of the following to form?

a disturbing force, such as wind, or earthquake

A surface ocean wave is _______.

energy in motion

The area over which the wind blows and creates a wave is called the _____.

fetch

What is the best definition for a deep-water wave?

A wave whose wave base is shallower than the depth to the seafloor