1.3 - Joinings and components

P1 - Technical principles

seam

joins two pieces of fabric together

• should be strong, durable, smooth, even

• protects from fraying

• should be sewn accurately so pattern pieces fit together - product correct size

self finishing seam

raw edges of the seam are enclosed within the seam as it is constructed

seam examples

• plain seam

• French seam

• fell/double machined seam

plain seam - process

• pin right sides together

• sew straight down edge

plain seam - characteristics

• needs finishing to stop fraying

• commonly used, quick and simple to do - makes flat surface

• strong but not good for products under high strain

• not visible on right side - of opaque fabric

• can create curved seams

• can insert piping/cording for decorative effect

plain seam - uses

• suitable for all normal weight fabrics

• garments, household textiles, sporting goods

French seam - process

• pin wrong sides together - sew 0.5cm from edge

• press to one side, trim to 3mm

• place right sides together - press

• stitch along seam line

French seam - characteristics

• self finishing

• challenging and time consuming

• strong - stitched twice

• not seen on outside - but can be bulky

• varying aftercare

French seam - uses

• delicate/fine/sheer fabrics prone to fraying

• e.g. chiffon and organza

• lightweight clothing, lingerie, childrens wear

fell/double machined seam - process

• pin wrong sides together - stitch plain seam

• press allowance to one side - trim to 3mm

• turn and tuck top allowance under lower allowance

• stitch down open side

fell/double machined seam - characteristics

• self finishing

• challenging and time consuming

• strong and durable - stitched twice

• adds decorative feature - can be sewn in contrasting thread

• seam visible on surface

• can be used on curved/pointed seams when stitching forms he inside is difficult

fell/double machine seam - uses

• products that withstand heavy/frequent wear

• shirts, trousers, hardwearing garments

• bulky fabrics that don’t fray

• e.g. fleece, artificial leather, denim

edge finished seams

edge finished give a neat appearance and prevent fraying

• used on plain seams as they aren’t self finished

• increases product life

edge finishing - examples

• edge stitching

• overlocking

• pinking

• binding

depends on fabric used and seam position on product

pinking

• using pinking shears to cut a zig zag edge across a seam

• disrupts long fabric threads - prevents unravelling

• used on woven fabrics

edge stitching

• sewing a straight line of stitching close to the seamline/edge

• reinforces seam, keeps edge flat and neatens finish

overlocking

• series of stitches made using and overlocker that encase the raw fabric edge and prevent fraying

• creates durable, neat finish

binding

encasing raw fabric edges with a strip of fabric, and sewing down the open edge

• prevents fraying, finished look

knitted fabric - working techniques

• avoid stretching when cutting/pinning

• finish seams with overlocker

• use stretch stitch - polyester thread (strong with some give)

• ballpoint needle - prevents snagging

• use stay tape - stabilises seams where stretch not needed

• interfacing - strengthens and stopes components snagging

• press seams open with a roller

stay tape

narrow tape used to stabilise seams, prevent stretching and reinforce areas

• armholes, necklines, shoulder seams

stretch fabrics - working techniques

• stitch stitch - polyester thread, enables seam to stretch with fabric

• ballpoint needle - prevents snagging

• stretch interfacing - maintains stretch, inc. stability

• press under dry cloth with warm iron

delicate/slippery fabrics - working techniques

• tissue paper to stabilise fabric when cutting

• can sandwich fabric when sewing - avoids mangling/sliding

• fine pins, sharp needles/scissors - avoid snagging

• pin in seam allowance - use French seams

• keep taught when sewing - prevents puckering

• use same fabric to strengthen areas with components/trims are sewn

• press seams over a thick towel - stops ridge on RS

snagging

a defect in a textile product caused by pulling or plucking yarns from a fabrics surface

directional fabric

has a definite one way pattern or nap

with nap layout

means all pattern pieces must lie in the same direction on the fabric

• nap will be noticeable if pieces are cut going in the wrong direction

• e.g. satin woven fabric

nap fabric

fabric with a raised surface made by brushing after weaving fabric

• fabric feels different when brushed in opposite directions e.g velvet (pile fabrics)

• changes colour when viewed from different angles

delicate/sheer fabrics - need for techniques

• inner structure of garments is visible

• careful sewing/pressing is needed

directional fabrics - working techniques

• use nap layout - avoids shade variations in product

• pin in seam allowance - prevents marks

• fine/sharp needles - prevents snagging

• finish seam edges quickly - prevents fraying

• use walking foot - stops seams moving when machine stitched

• needle board - protects pile when pressing

• iron on the wrong side

checked/patterned fabrics - need for techniques

• challenging and time consuming to work with

• matched products are expensive

• wastes a lot of fabric

checked/patterned fabrics - working techniques

• use with nap layout - symmetry and continuity of pattern (across seams, pockets, darts, facings)

• match, pin, tack seams at sewing line, not cutting line

• cut on bias - solves matching problems

• use walking foot - stops seams moving when machine stitched

machine/sewing threads - examples

• polyester

• specialist threads

polyester threads - properties

• strong, don’t shrink

• rot resistant

• degree of give - can use with stretch/synthetic fabrics

used for general purpose sewing threads

polyester threads - filament fibres

• filament fibres not used on their own - friction from sewing needle caused them to soften and break

• coated in cotton sheath (core spun)

• or cut to stable length and spun into thread

• preferable for sewing thread to have same fibre comp. as fabric used

specialists machine threads

• buttonhole thread = thicker, polyester or silk - used for hand stitched buttonhole, sewing on buttons, topstitching

• overlocking thread, elastic thread, invisible thread, fusible thread, quilting thread

embroidery threads - examples

• stranded cotton embroidery thread

• machine embroidery threads

stranded embroidery cotton thread - info

• mercerised cotton - improves dye uptake, strength, lustre, reduces shrinkage

• 6 easily seperatable stands

• enables variation in stitch weight

machine embroidery thread - info

• usually viscose threads

• madeira and gutermann

• high tensile strength, high lustre, soft/flexible handle

• runs smoothly at high speed

• low breakage

fusible fleece

• e.g bondaweb

• soft, double sided adhesive attached to transfer paper

• used to temporarily bond one fabric to another using heat from an iron to melt the adhesive

special effect threads - examples

• metallic

• metallic - effect

• glow in the dark

• multi coloured/variegated

metallic threads - info

• core spun = loosely wrapping fine yarn around fine metal strips (laminated between clear synthetic film)

• or wrap coloured metallic foil around polyester/nylon/viscose core thread

metallic-effect thread - info

• easy to work with synthetic fibres

• highly lustrous - imitate the appliance of metal

glow in the dark thread - info

• coated polyester impregnated with phosphorescent pigment

• thread is charged by light exposure - glows in dark

multi coloured/variegated thread

• have a repeating multi coloured dye pattern running throughout

fastenings - examples

• buttons/buttonholes/loops

• zips

• poppers/snap fasteners

• clips

• buckles

• clasps

• d rings

• hook and eye

• fabric/ribbon ties

• velcro

fastenings

components/systems used to join two or more parts of a garment together

• for a temporary/reversible connection

• provides exit/entry points

• allows fit adjustment

buttons + buttonholes/loops - characteristics

• most buttons are flat - hand/machine sewn through 2/4 holes

• dome buttons - sewn through shanks/stems

• fastened using buttonholes/rouleau loops

• buttonhole - must be sewn on double fabric, strengthened with interfacing

rouleau loop

thin tube of sewn and turned bias cut fabric

• used to fasten dome shaped or frog fastenings

zips - characteristics

• metal/plastic teeth = for medium to heavyweight garments

• e.g. sporting/outdoor garments

• polyester coil = lightweight garments

• e.g. fine-fabric fashion garments

• hard to repair when broken, secure

poppers and pressers - characteristics

• sued to fasten an opening to leave a smooth, flat closure

• inserted with special tools

• broken/badly lined popper = cant replace, hole left in fabric

• press studs do same job

press studs - characteristics

• do the same job as poppers

• need sewing on by hand

• not as decorative or economical

clips - characteristics

• 2 piece, quick release fastening

• often durable plastic, sewn onto end of webbing straps (stitched onto product)

• used on luggage and sporting equipment

buckles - characteristics

• fastens narrow products e.g. belt/bag strap

• open rim, central bar - with/without prongs

• buckle slides = no prongs/eyelet holes, less secure as they can slip out alignment

clasps - characteristics

• 2 part fastener - 1 side fastens into the other

• made of metal/plastic

• range of products e.g. bags, coats, swimwear

D-rings - characteristics

• various sizes - metal or plastic

• used to alter bag strap/belt length

• not very secure - rely on friction between strap and rings to stay in place

Hook and eyes - characteristics

• discreet, 2 part fastening - metal

• e.g. foundation garments (bras), where edges meet (top of dress), where waistband edges overlap (trousers)

• degree of strain necessary for hook to remain fastened

fabric/ribbon ties - characteristics

• decorative fastenings - made from range of materials

• not very secure

• cheap and easy to use

• must comply with BSI safety regs on childrens items

velcro - characteristics

• 2 fabric tapes - 1 soft looped surface, 1 small nylon hooks

• when tapes pressed together, hooks grip loops securely

trims

mostly decorative components that add interest and finishing touches to products

• chosen to comply with products fabric, style, use and aftercare

trims - examples

• braids

• ribbon

• piping

• edging

• binding

• fringing

• lace

• beads

• diamantés

braids - characteristics

• long and narrow

• cord = circular braid

• plaiting/weaving braids = can form complex structures/patterns

braids - uses

• decorative edge trim on garments/crafts

• formal garments

• dress uniforms

ribbon - characteristics

• find warp yarns - high warp density

• long edges finished, cut short edges fray

• polyester and silk for lustrous appearance

ribbon - uses

• tie fastenings

• decorative trim on furnishing/clothing edges

piping - characteristics

• strip of bias cut fabric - folded over chord

• inserted and sewn into seam

• cotton or polyester fibres

• garments = fine chord

• furnishings = thicker chord

piping - uses

• to define style lines in garments

• strengthens areas vulnerable to abrasion (in soft furnishings)

edging - characteristics + uses

• e.g scalloped lace trips, braids, fringing

• comes with finished edges

• for decorative edges on finished products

binding - characteristics

• strips of fabric cut diagonally - across grain/bias

• sewn together to make bias binding

• can stretch and follow curves without creasing

binding - uses

• to edge textile products

• covers raw edges of plain seams

fringing - characteristics

• decorative border of twisted warp threads - loose fro traveled edge of woven fabric

• looped threads/chords/beads/tassels attached to separate braid/fabric trim

• narrow strips of material - held together at the top

fringing - uses

• edgings for - interior products, cushions, curtains

• trim on flags, uniforms, garments, dance/period costume

lace - characteristics

• cotton, polyester, rayon, silk

• sewn onto raw edges to hide hems

• appliqué onto surface to accentuate e.g. around neck

• delicate, weblike patterns - need careful care, snag easily

lace - uses

• special ocasión wear - wedding dresses

• lingerie

• table linen

• trimming on childrens socks

beads - characteristics

• add lustre and texture

• in trim form - can be machine/ hand sewed onto fabric

• need to use strong/interfaced fabrics to support weight

• often dry clean only

beads - uses

• emphasised style lines in garments

• can be used to create patterns

diamantés - characteristics

• mimics diamonds

• need to be glued, or have pre glued base heat activated

• detergents can damage glue - careful laundering

diamantes - uses

• special occasion wear

• belts

• shoes

• childrens clothing

components and suitability for a product

• suitable for style/function of product

• compatible with fibre content, structure, weight and aftercare

• safe and efficient at meeting user needs

• within budget

• easily obtainable

• suitable for existing machinery/equipment

e-components

can be integrated into textile products to add decorative/functional features

• must be connected to circuit with a power source

• connected to low voltage power by conductive sewing thread

e-components - examples

• wearable sensors - temp, moisture, medical device monitoring

• integrated communication systems

• sound effects

underlining - characteristics

• cut to same shape/size of outer fabric

• sewn to wrong side, treated as one layer as garment is made

• lightweight, same aftercare

• can also be lined

underlining - fabrics

• cotton muslin

• satin

• organza

underlining - uses

• e.g. inside of a jacket

• maintains shape - doesn’t stiffen

• supports seams (in loose weave fabrics)

• provide opacity to sheer/lace fabrics

interfacing - characteristics

• an extra layer of fabric used under/between outer fabrics

• different weights/colours - sew in or iron on

• should be close to fabric properties

• applied before garment construction

interfacing - uses

• crisp shape

• strengthens fabric for fastenings

• stops stretching

• stabilises fabric for embroidery

lining - characteristics

constructed separately and attached at facing/hem areas

• can be partially or fully lined

lining - fabrics

• polyester, acetate, silk - woven or knitted

• should have same care as main fabric

• can have anti-static finish to stop cling

lining - uses

• options for pockets, more attractive inside

• cover/protect internal construction

• make warmer, more comfortable garments

• easier to put on/off, maintain shape so it hangs well

• protects outer fabric from perfume/sweat

interlining - characteristics

fabric layer added to a garment

• should be soft and lightweight

• sewn as one with the lining

• can be underlined/interfaced

• soft and lightweight fabrics

interlining - uses

• makes garments warmer

• better insulations - e.g. curtains

• adds body - improves drape