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What structure is broken by processing (waving) lotion to change the hair from straight to a wavy or curly formation?
a. carbon
b. eumelanin
c. melanocytes
d. disulfide bonds
D
The overlap (croquignole) technique produces which result?
a. undulating waves and curls
b. revolutions of hair next to one another
c. both a and b
d. neither a nor b
A
How does the stylist remove excess water from the hair before applying the neutralizer?
a. by squeezing the hair
b. by blotting the hair with a towel
c. by drying the hair with a blow dryer
d. by adding hydrogen peroxide to the hair
B
Jeanette wants to achieve the strongest curl possible. What can she do during the neutralizing step of the perm to achieve this?
a. apply extra neutralizer
b. rinse after rod removal
c. rinse before rod removal
d. select an extra strength neutralizer
C
In the perm procedure, proper end-paper techniques will eliminate crimps or:
a. bevels in the hair
b. spirals in the hair
c. beads on the ends of the hair
d. "fishhooks" on the ends of the hair
D
On base control is not recommended for alkaline perms since expansion is limited at the base and:
a. chemicals weaken the curl
b. causes a crease in the hair
c. chemicals increase dryness
d. tension may cause breakage
D
The physical phase of perming includes:
a. strand testing
b. neutralizing the hair
c. applying the perm solution
d. wrapping the hair around a perm tool
D
Which of the following ingredients is NOT one of the main ingredients found in most neutralizers?
a. peroxide
b. potassium
c. sodium bromate
d. sodium perborate
B
Which of the following descriptions identifies the bookend technique for end-paper placement?
a. one end paper on top
b. one end paper folded in half
c. two end papers folded in half
d. additional end papers along the strand
B
The two major phases of permanent waving are:
a. rinsing and blotting
b. physical and chemical
c. wrapping and neutralizing
d. shampooing and conditioning
B
In addition to tension and perm solution, what do acid perms use to perform the processing action?
a. cold
b. heat
c. drying
d. alkalinity
B
During a perm service, the process step involves all the following EXCEPT:
a. applying perm solution
b. blotting excess water from each rod
c. wrapping hair around the perm tool
d. rinsing the perm solution from the hair
C
Which of the following descriptions does NOT identify the meaning of porosity?
a. the hair's ability to stretch
b. the hair's ability to absorb liquids
c. the hair's ability to absorb moisture
d. the hair's ability to absorb chemicals
A
Which base control is the most commonly used during a perm service?
a. on base
b. off base
c. half-off base
d. underdirected
C
Samantha applied an acid perm solution to Renee's hair. While processing, Renee did not need a plastic cap or to be placed under a heated dryer. What kind of perm solution did Samantha apply to Renee's hair?
a. exothermic
b. endothermic
c. overnight wave
d. machineless method
A
When creating a perm design, what will create a repetitive texture?
a. a progression of rod diameters
b. positioning textures in selected areas
c. alternating rod diameter or rod shape
d. same shape and diameter perm rod throughout
D
The four basic tool positions in perming are on base, half-off base, underdirected and:
a. off base
b. overdirected
c. highly directed
d. ne-time directed
A
George is frustrated with perm rods shifting while rinsing a perm. What did George forget to do during the physical phase of the service?
a. position cotton
b. use end papers
c. analyze hair texture
d. secure rods with picks
D
The size of the base and the angle at which the hair is held while wrapping determines the:
a. roller size
b. base width
c. tool position
d. curl diameter
D
Heat and wrapping with firm, even tension when using an acid perm produces which of the following effects?
a. increases processing time
b. creates uneven wave pattern
c. boosts penetration of glyceryl monothioglycolate
d. decreases penetration of glyceryl monothioglycolate
C
Positioning texture in one or more specific areas or zones of the head, or along only a certain portion of the hairstrand is called:
a. zoning
b. texture placement
c. strand placement
d. none of the above
B
To produce large curls, wave formations or body waves, it is necessary to use:
a. less neutralizer
b. less waving lotion
c. more waving lotion
d. large-diameter tools
D
What length of hair was Charles Nessler's heat permanent waving machine suitable for?
a. long
b. short
c. medium
d. very short
A
What type of perms process the fastest because of their higher pH?
a. acid
b. heat
c. alkaline
d. exothermic
C
What provides the tension necessary in an alkaline wave?
a. neutralizer
b. applying heat
c. swelling of the hair
d. tightly wrapping the hair
C
In what year was the first cold wave created?
a. 1938
b. 1905
c. 1931
d. 1970
A
Acid perms are in the pH range of:
a. 4.9-5.2
b. 5.9-6.2
c. 6.9-7.2
d. 7.9-8.2
C
Leaving the neutralizer on longer than recommended can:
a. add volume
b. lead to hair damage
c. create a firmer curl pattern
d. create an appearance with more luster
B
The wrapping technique that positions revolutions of hair next to one another to create an elongated texture pattern is called the:
a. spiral technique
b. overlap technique
c. twisted technique
d. conventional technique
A
Which phase of perming is the most important?
a. physical phase
b. chemical phase
c. wrapping phase
d. physical and chemical are equally important
D
The rectangle wrap is also called the:
a. spiral pattern
b. 9-block pattern
c. contour pattern
d. bricklay pattern
B
It is essential to completely rinse the perm solution before applying the:
a. relaxer
b. shampoo
c. neutralizer
d. conditioner
C
As added texture expands the form:
a. the form is no longer apparent
b. the illusion of shorter length is created
c. the illusion of longer length is created
d. form line and weight area shift downward
B
What reduces the swelling of the hair and re-hardens the bonds in the new shape during a perm process?
a. apply shampoo
b. applying a neutralizer
c. acid waves without heat
d. applying a processing agent
B
What do low- or no-thio perms use as a reducing agent?
a. peroxide
b. thioglycolic acid
c. cystemine hydrochloride
d. glycerol monothioglycolate
C
For perming, the pH of a neutralizer will range from:
a. 2.5 to 7
b. 6.9 to 7
c. 7 to 7.5
d. 7.5 to 8.5
A
The size of the base and the position of the rod in relation to the base determines the:
a. perm tool
b. roller size
c. base width
d. base control
D
Which type of perm is recommended for damaged, highly porous or previously permed hair?
a. acid
b. cold
c. alkaline
d. low pH alkaline
A
What term refers to the way perm tools are arranged around the client's head while wrapping?
a. molding
b. circle wrap
c. distribution
d. perm pattern
D
What perms cause minimal swelling and must be wrapped with firm, even tension?
a. cold
b. acid
c. warm
d. alkaline
B
During a perm service, when is it important to replace cotton around the hairline?
a. at the end of the service
b. when it becomes saturated
c. after rinsing the neutralizer
d. after rinsing the perm solution
B
The method of wrapping hair from the end to the base is known as:
a. spiral
b. bricklay
c. contour
d. croquignole
You can apply the design principles of repetition, alternation, progression and contrast:
a. along the strand
b. to texture within zones
c. throughout an entire composition
d. all of the above
A neutralizer rebonds and restores the disulfide bonds in addition to which of the following?
a. increases the swelling in the cortex
b. softens the bonds in the new shape
c. reduces the swelling caused by the alkalinity
d. increases the rate at which the perm solution absorbs into the hair
What are the two basic wrapping techniques for rotating strands around a perm tool?
a. twist and overlap
b. wave and overlap
c. spiral and overlap
d. croquignole and overlap
Low-pH alkaline waves have a pH of:
a. 4
b. 6
c. 8
d. 10
Hair is generally referred to as fine, medium or coarse when analyzing which of the following classifications?
a. texture
b. density
c. color
d. elasticity
Hair density does not always correspond to which of the following?
a. texture
b. natural hair color
c. perm rod size
d. amount of hair wrapped on perm tool
End papers are important to control hair ends during the perming process and to:
a. add bulk to the curl
b. blot excess moisture
c. allow the stylist to grip the hair section
d. keep the hair smoothly wrapped around the perm tool
When performing an alkaline wave on a client, thioglycolic acid is joined with what ingredient to shorten the processing time?
a. sodium bromate
b. sodium hydroxide
c. hydrogen peroxide
d. ammonium hydroxide
If the base is longer than the perm rod, the result will be:
a. no curl
b. frizzing
c. breakage
d. uneven curl
Which of the following items could describe what helps determine the processing time and proper perm solution?
a. client's growth pattern
b. client's natural hair color
c. size of the applicator bottle
d. hair porosity, elasticity and texture
Hair should be wrapped without tension when using:
a. alkaline perms
b. exothermic acid waves
c. endothermic acid waves
d. acid perms without heat
Which of the following perm patterns positions tools in a staggered configuration to avoid splits?
a. oblong
b. bricklay
c. rectangle
d. partial perms
In alkaline perms, the perm solution chemically breaks or reduces the:
a. medulla of the hair
b. porosity of the hair
c. strong disulfide bonds
d. color molecules in the hair
Alkaline perms have a pH of:
a. 4.5-5.5
b. 6.0-7.5
c. 8.0-9.5
d. 10.0-14.0
What length of hair is the spiral technique most often used on?
a. long only
b. short to long
c. medium to long
d. short to medium
Zonal perms are also called:
a. end perms
b. base perms
c. sub perms
d. partial perms
A pull test is performed to check for which of the following conditions?
a. porosity
b. melanin
c. elasticity
d. brittleness
Normal dry hair is capable of being stretched to what percent of its length?
a. 10%
b. 20%
c. 40%
d. 50%
To remove all chemicals after the hair has been neutralized, the hair needs to be:
a. rinsed
b. blotted
c. relaxed
d. reprocessed
The alkalinity of cold waves causes the hair fiber to soften and:
a. swell
b. shrink
c. become acidic
d. become brittle
What is applied to a client's hairline prior to a perm service to protect the skin?
a. ammonia
b. neutralizer
c. perm solution
d. barrier cream
Which of the following statements is true about alkaline perms?
a. need heat
b. strong curl pattern
c. slower processing time
d. better for fragile hair
Which perm tool determines the size and shape of the new curl texture?
a. perm rod
b. tail comb
c. stabilizer
d. applicator bottle
The hair characteristics to assess in a pre-perm analysis are porosity, elasticity, texture and:
a. length
b. density
c. styling
d. natural pigment
To equalize the porosity of highly porous hair, it may be necessary to use which of these products?
a. pre-wrap product
b. disulfide product
c. strong shampoo product
d. sodium hydroxide product
Which product is applied to break disulfide bonds during a perming service?
a. perm rod
b. neutralizer
c. oxidizing agent
d. perm solution
Partial perms are designed to:
a. curl only the ends
b. produce only weak ends
c. avoid splits in a final design
d. position added texture within specific area
In 1926, the croquignole method of wrapping hair from the ends to the scalp was created. What is another name for this wrapping method?
a. spiral method
b. overlap method
c. clamp method
d. none of the above
Heat waves that are self-timed and self-heated and range from acid to alkaline are called:
a. cold
b. acidic
c. exothermic
d. endothermic
Processing is considered complete when, after unwinding the perm rod one and one-half times, the following pattern occurs:
a. S-pattern
b. E-pattern
c. spiral pattern
d. rectangle pattern
The perm pattern that includes a central rectangle and two sections at each side is the:
a. rectangle pattern
b. contour pattern
c. spiral bricklay pattern
d. alternating oblong pattern
What was the active ingredient used in the first cold wave?
a. bisulfides
b. thioglycolate acid
c. glyceryl monothioglycolate
d. none of the above
Water left in end papers after rinsing the perm solution will dilute the neutralizer and:
a. crimp the curl ends
b. weaken the curl formation
c. create a crease at the base of the hair
d. cause the curl to be tighter