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Hard engineering
involves building artificial structures which try to control the erosion of coastlines by deflecting or dissipating waves.
Groynes
wooden barriers constructed at right angles to the beach to retain material, which gets trapped between the groynes to prevent it being taken away by longshore drift.
Sea walls
walls built along the front of cliffs to protect settlements. They are often curved so the waves reflect back on themselves.
Hexagonal/living seawalls
mimic natural rocky shoreline while protecting the real shoreline from erosion and wave action, made of interlocking concrete panels which provide nooks for marine life to safely colonise
Revetments
wooden slatted barriers constructed towards the rear of beaches to protect the base of cliffs as they dissipate the energy of breaking waves.
Rock armour
barrier of large boulders placed before a cliff or sea wall to absorb and deflect the impact of waves.
Gabions
wire mesh cages filled with pebbles or rocks placed at the back of sandy beaches that dissipate and absorb wave energy as water enters the cages.
Breakwater
large concrete blocks and boulders located offshore to change the direction of waves and reduce longshore drift and help absorb wave energy.
Soft engineering
takes a more sustainable, natural approach to managing the coast, using natural materials to stabilise coastlines and reduce erosion.
Beach nourishment
where beaches are made wider and higher by dredge up sand and dump it on the affected area provide protection from erosion by absorption.
Managed retreat (coastal realignment)
Areas of low value are allowed to erode and create new intertidal habitats.
Dune Regeneration
taking action to build up dunes and increase vegetation.
Beach reprofiling
redistributing sediment from the lower part of the beach to the upper part of the beach.
Types of waves
Constructive and destructive
Constructive waves
Where the swash is more powerful than the backwash.
These waves build the beach by depositing sand particles (deposition)
Destructive waves
Where the backwash is more powerful than the swash.
These waves erode the beach by taking sand back to the ocean
Longshore drift
The movement of sand along the coast. The waves approach the beach at an angle but the the backwash returns straight back to the sea. The sand moves because the waves come at an angle so they get moved further along with every wave.
Human Activities in coastal areas
building, tourism, fishing, farming, and industry etc
Synoptic Charts
weather maps showing atmospheric conditions over a large area at a specific time, helping to predict weather patterns like rain or storms
Isobars
Lines on chart that are lines of constant or equal atmospheric pressure.
Where the lines are squeezed together is where wind is strongest and further apart means lower wind strength
High Pressure Systems
Wind moves in anticlockwise direction
The air sinks, bringing warmer weather and settled conditions
Low Pressure Systems
Wind moves in clockwise direction
The air is rising, typically causing wet, cloudy etc. conditions
Cold front
cold air comes and pushes hot air upwards resulting in colder temperatures
Blue lines, spiky triangles
Warm front
Warm air replaces colder air
Red lines, semicircles
Air Pressure
Hectopascals (hPa)
1013 hPa - marker for low pressure system
lowest atmospheric pressure - 1005
Occluded front
Sometimes as warm and cold fronts revolve around a depression, the cold front will catch up with a warm front.
Semicircles and triangles
Troughs
moist air one side, dry air other
Transect
a method used to study spatial variations across a specific area. It involves collecting data along a straight line or path to observe changes in characteristics, such as vegetation, elevation, or land use.