aqa textiles alevel paper 1

natural fibres from plants

cellulose - cotton, linen and ramie

Natural fibres from animals

protein - wool and silk

natural fibres from hair

cashmere, mohair and angora

manufactured fibres - regenerated

viscose and acetate

manufactured fibres - new generation lyocell

modal, tencel and lyocell

new generation lyocell fibres are

chemically treated to modify the cellulose, using a close loop system reusing the chemicals from processing, this makes them more environmentally friendly

synthetic fibres

polyamide, polyester, acrylic, elastomeric, PVC, flurofibre (PTFE)

synthetic fibres - aramid

kevlar and nomex

synthetic fibres - inorganic

glass, metallic, carbon and ceramic

smart materials

materials that are able to react to changes in their environment without human intervention

modern textiles

can be engineered to have properties needed for specific purposes

microfibres

fine synthetic fibres, e.g. polyester. they are lightweight with a good drape - usually blended with natural fibres for outdoor and sports use

nanofibres

miniscule fibres, strong but lightweight. when applied as a finish they protect fabrics from stains etc since it makes a fibre more absorbent

flammability test (industry)

-test one: tests how easy it catches fire

-test two: tests how far a flame spreads when ignition source is removed and also the size of hole that is burned. (also any debris from the sample)

-test three: measured how quickly a flame spreads

crease resistance (industry)

-involves creasing the fabric and measuring how quickly it recovers

in a crease resistance test the larger the angle of recovery ...

the better the crease resistance

shrink resistance (industry)

-reference points are used in case of fraying etc, after the test using a washing machine the reference points are measured and compared.

- percentage change is then calculated, if the fabric has shrunk it will be minus.

percentage change

original - new / original

colour fastness

ability of fabric to retain dye when washed or exposed to sunlight for any length of time

colour fastness (industry)

-test one: testing for fastness using uv light and washing

-test two: testing for fastness to light (sunlight and artificial)

-test three: testing for wash fastness and comparing to a grayscale

pilling

when fibres rub off the surface until it small balls of the fibre traps on the surface of the fabric, tends to occur in blended yarn fabrics

pilling test (industry)

martindale abrasion machine - using a weight to put friction and break down the fabric.

pilling test (workshop)

wear machine - course round file and hand drill, number of drill turns are recorded!!!

strength test (industry)

test one: tests breaking strength of woven fabrics using heavy weights

test two: measures bursting strength of knitted fabrics using a rubber diagraphm

fibre

a fine and flexible textile raw material

felting

the overlapping scales on wool fibre lock together under conditions of heat, moisture and friction

different methods of fibre production include

-cotton spinning

-the woolen system

- the worsted system

-wet spinning

-melt spinning

yarns

a fine continuous length of fibres with or without a twist

examples of machine knitting

- circular machines

- flatbed/panel knitting

- fully fashioned knitting machine for whole garment knitting etc.

metallic fibres

are made by sandwiching sheets of aluminium foil between sheets of clear plastic film.

Z twist

clockwise, facing right

S twist

anticlockwise, facing left

tex

length in metres/weight in grams

higher the number the finer the yarn

denier

weight in grams/length in km

higher the number the thicker the yarn

two types of texturising

-false twist texturising

-air jet texturising

warp yarns

Yarns that run the length of the fabric

Weft yarns

yarns that run horizontal along the fabric

examples of plain weaves

calico, canvas, chiffon, flannel, muslin and shirting

Examples of Twill Weave

denim, drill, garbadine

examples of satin weaves

satin, jacquard, brocade

examples of pile weaves

velvet, corduroy and towelling

weft knits

take a vertical course

+ stretchy, soft drape, good insulator

- easily distorted, ladders, hard to cut

examples of weft knits

single jersey, double jersey, rib knit, fleece

warp knits

Knits made with several yarns creating loops that interlock in a vertical course.

warp knits examples

velour, tricot, raschel ( net and lace )

Smart materials

material that responds to its envionment and then returns to its original state

Smart material examples

creating a personal microclimate, monitor bodily functions, colour changing, shape memory and tracking movement

examples of technical textiles

GPS, LEDs, ceramic and carbon fibres, microfibres, nanotechnology, geotextiles, goretex, kevlar, nomex, phospherescent, reflective, coolmax, microencapsulation.

tactel

wicks moisture away

modal

sustainable, made by lenzing. usually used for sportswear.

Lyocell

a strong synthetic fibre made by lenzing, usually used in household textiles items

Tencel

The trademark name of Lyocell. It is biodegradable, strong, very absorbent, but tends to wrinkle. Used in fabric blends for blouses, sport shirts, dresses, jackets, ... ect.

lycra

a stretchy material used especially for making clothes which fit very tightly

polar fleece

recycled polyester bottles. brushed - soft nap, trapping air and good insulator

Vilene

non woven interfacings

pattern repeat

distance between one point of the design and the exact point where it begins again

full drop

- simple and easy pattern matching

- least amount of fabric waste

- grid layout

brick

- stacked horizontally

- harder to match

- offset in the next row

Half drop

- stacked vertical

- visual interest

- similar to brick

- more challenging and fabric waste !!!

nap

raised surface from brushing the surface post weaving, requires a one way pattern layout

bias bound seams

- good seam on heavy fabrics

- neat for visible seams

- time consuming

self finishing seams include

- french seam

- lapped/overlaid seam

- double machined or fell seam

sewing threads

polyester, cotton, buttonhole, elastic, invisible

embroidery threads

stranded cotton, madeira

special effect thread

metallic and glow in the dark

thread

should always match the size, weight and properties of the fabric - or the quality will be affected

finishes

improve the fabric through enhancing the appearance, changing texture, improve feel and drape and modify wearing/safety qualities aswell as care requirements

mechanical finishes

dry physical processes without any addition of water or chemicals, tend to alter the fabric surface

mechanical finishes examples

brushing/raising, calandering, embossing, heat setting, stone and sand washing, dimensional stability

chemical finishes

wet processes using chemicals, heat and water, thy change fibre/fabric structure

chemical finishes examples

mercerisation, flame retardency, water resistance (scotchguard, teflon + nanosphere) crease resistance, antifelting, mothproofing, antipilling, hygenic (purista, chilosan and silver)

laminating

using two or more adhesive layers of thermoplastic fibres i.e. goretex, sympatex and bonding

sympatex

- waterproof and breathable

- dont have microfibres for breathability

- wicks away moisture

VAT

- large dye bath

- solid colour, dyed in batches

- each batch is given a number for quality control

VAT process

1. put textiles into VAT

2. dye is heated to help penetration

3. textiles moved continuously when in the VAT

4. fix the dye within the fibre

5. excess dye removed and fabric is cleaned with detergents

discharge dyeing

dyeing with bleach / chemical deactivator after dyeing

resist dyeing

yarn or fabric treated to block areas from taking color during dyeing:

- chemical

- tie dye

- batik

dyeing stages

dope dyeing - fibre, before spinnerets

stock dyeing - fibre,

yarn dyeing - dyebath

fabric/piece dyeing

garment dyeing

colour fastness

Ability to withstand colour change after exposure to heat or water:

- fading

- crocking

- bleeding

Printing advantages

- more colours

- complicated/detailed designs

- cheaper

- variety of methods

fabric preparation for printing

-desizing

-scouring

-bleaching

digital printing

Ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric.

transfer/sublimation printing

printed onto special paper and round onto a roller, transferring onto the fabric using a pressurised heated calander machine.

- dyestuff passes through as vapour onto the fabric diffusing onto the fibres (synthetics!!)

advantages of transfer printing

- can print cut garment pieces

- rapid pattern change over

- adaptable for short runs

UPS

unit production systems

- involves moving parts of products with a conveyor overhead aka. on hangers

QRM

quick response manufacture

- workers work in teams, sharing tasks and equipment

section manufacture

development of one off manufacture - on a larger scale to reduce costs

Vertical/In House Production

high street retailers do their own designing, manufacturing and distribution

standardised and bought components

made by specialist manufactures, different ones make different components - it is more economical and effecient process since the components are made in standard sizes

globalised manufacture

is driven by competition and the need for effeciency by reducing the costs of labour and materials

consequences of globalised manufacture

- environmental cost

- decrease in uk employment

- many social and moral issues

advantages of offshoring

- costs

- machinery and technology

- large pool of skilled labour

- NICs benefits

disadvantages of offshoring

- small volumes are costly

- harder quality control

- logistics

- ethical

contracted goods

each product carrys their own individual retailers logo or trademark (tm)- goods are made under the original manufactures have even if they have been made elsewhere

Advantages of CAD

- easy to receive feedback

- adaptable

- database creation

- time and money saving

- experimental

- can send electronic copies of designs

types of CAD

presentation boards, prints and products e.g. photoshop, 2D design, layplans

advantages of CAM

- consistent quality

- works with chemical

- stores instructions

- specialised machinery

- CNC (computer numerical control)

types of CAM

fabric manufacture, fabric printing, spreading and cutting, sewing, pressing, decoration, laser cutting

virtual modelling

digital body scanners allowing mass customisation of standard designers

PDS - pattern design system

develops templates from virtual modelling - saves time, paper and is easy to receive