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Corrugations
Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to illness or injuries.
Furrows
Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or illness.
Leuconchia
White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail
Onychorrhexis
Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals.
Hang Nails
Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle
Onychomycosis Unguium
Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious
Onychocryptosis
Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes.
Verruca
Warts caused by infectious virus
Onycholysis
lifting of the nail without shedding
5 Basic Nail Shapes
squoval, round, oval, pointed, square
Toner
used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring
Conditioning filler
protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes
Color filler
used to replace the missing primary colors
Oxidative
Demi- permenant and permenant color
Non-oxidative color
temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent.
Double process blonde
decolorizing and toning
What affects lightener working time?
Melanin - the more there is the longer the process. Scalp processes faster because of body heat
Lift
lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair
Deposit
means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or high alkalinity necessary to lift
developer
oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin and give ability to lift or lighten
Semi-permanent color
non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each shampoo.
Demi-permanent color
oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone
Permanent color
lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients, penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out
Primary colors
Red, Blue, Yellow
Brown
unequal combo of primary color
Black
Equal parts of primary colors
Warm tones
red, orange, yellow
Cool tones
blue, green, violet
Neutral tones
perfect combo of both cool and warm tones
Eumelanin
Brown to black pigments
Pheomelanin
Red to yellow pigments
Coarse texture
largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is affected
medium texture
has a balance of melanin, typically no problems
Fine texture
smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage
Alkaline Wave
AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT
Acid Wave
AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing
Endothermic
required added heat source
Exothermic
self heating
Croguiqnole
Wrapping technique from ends to scalp, causes tighter curls on ends. also referred to as "overlapping method"
Spiral
hair is not perpendicular to rod - spiraled from top-bottom of rod
On base placement
hair is held 45* forward
1/2 off base placement
hair is held 90* straight up
Off base placement
hair is held 45* down
End paper techniques
double flat, bookend, cushion wrap
Lanthionization
hydroxide relaxer removes 1 of the sulfer atoms converting from a disulfide bond converting it into a lanthionine bond, which is only 1 sulfur atom. can never be reformed
Sodium relaxers are not compatible with :
Thio relaxers
Elasticity
ability to stretch and return to original length without breaking. wet - 50%, dry - 20%
Melanin
color pigment. eumelanin, and pheomelanin
Hair layers
medulla, cuticle, and cortex
Medulla
center core of hair, does nothing
Cuticle
7-14 scale like layers, outer layer of hair
Cortex
has hair pigment (melanin), 90% of hair weight, elasticity, strength, all chemical changes
Skin Layers
Epidermis, Dermis, Subcutaneous tissue
Epidermis
Outer layer of skin, protective/water proof, contains keratin and fats, stratum germinativum
Stratum Germinativum
basal cell layer of epidermis that produces melanin that protects from uv rays
Dermis
"True skin" sensitive layer of connective tissue, 25x thicker than the epidermis, 70% of layer is made of collagen protein, elastin, and blood vessels
Sebaceous glands
oil/sebum glands
Sudoriferous glands
sweat glands
subcutaneous tissue
fatty layer, below the dermis
acid mantle
4.5-5.5
Muscle massage
massage from insertion to origin
insertion
attached end to another muscle or movable bone
origin
fixed attachment to a bone or tissue
Efflerage
light continuous stroking/no pressure, soothing/relaxing
Functions of the skin
protection, sensations, heat regulation, excretion, secreation
Skin
Largest organ of the body, first defense against disease, germs, and environment.
Spread wax on in:
same direction as hair growth
Pull wax strip off in:
opposite direction of hair growth
Methods of temporary hair removal
Shaving, tweezing, electronic tweezers, depilatories (nair)
Ph Scale ranges from
0-14
Acid ph balance
0-7
Neutral ph balance
7
Alkaline ph balance
7-14
Infection Control
controlling germs - sanitation
3 Methods of infection control
sanitation, disinfecting, sterilization
Sanitation
removing visible dirt
disinfecting
kills most bacteria but not all
Sterilization
kills all microbial life
Marvacide
hospital grade, EPA registered, effective against HIV, tuberculosis and hepatitis
Hypertrichosis
unsusal amount of hair growth
Terminal hair
very dark visible hair
Vellus hair
baby fine hair
hyper
more than normal
trich
hair
ology
the study of something
osis
condition
invisible braid
over technique
visible braid
under technique
corrective base to use for yellow
violet
corrective base to use for orange
blue
corrective base to use for red
green
in a test curl you look for what shaped pattern?
"S" pattern
Bloodborne pathogens
disease causing bacteria or viruses carried through the body in blood or body fluids
OSHA
occupational safety and health administrations
EPA
environmental protection agency
Where should you test foundation?
jawline
What are complimentary colors?
colors on opposite sides of the color wheel: red & green, blue & orange, and yellow & violet
Another name for strip lashes
band lashes
Corrective make up is used to do what to the face
hide imperfections
What are MSDS Sheets?
Material Safety Data Sheet