Waves

Coastal Systems

Fetch

The distance of open water over which the wind blows

Wave Refraction

Waves arriving at an angle to the shoreline due to the topography of the coastline

Characteristics of Constructive Waves

• Distant weather systems generate them

• Low, surging waves 

• Long wavelength, low frequency (6-8 wpm)

• Strong swash, weak backwash

• Beach gain

• Gentle beach profile but over time the beach will build and become steeper

Characteristics of Destructive Waves 

• Local storms generate them

• High, plunging waves

• Short wavelength, high frequency (10-14 wpm)

• Weak swash, strong backwash

• Beach loss

• Steep beach profile but over time the beach will flatten