Waves

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Last updated 3:04 PM on 9/22/25
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4 Terms

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Fetch

The distance of open water over which the wind blows

2
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Wave Refraction

Waves arriving at an angle to the shoreline due to the topography of the coastline

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Characteristics of Constructive Waves

  • Distant weather systems generate them

  • Low, surging waves 

  • Long wavelength, low frequency (6-8 wpm)

  • Strong swash, weak backwash

  • Beach gain

  • Gentle beach profile but over time the beach will build and become steeper

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Characteristics of Destructive Waves 

  • Local storms generate them

  • High, plunging waves

  • Short wavelength, high frequency (10-14 wpm)

  • Weak swash, strong backwash

  • Beach loss

  • Steep beach profile but over time the beach will flatten