Design and Construction 1 Midterm

Tape Measure

A flexible 60‑inch (150‑cm) reversible tape used to take various measurements.

Crotch tape measure

A flexible 60‑inch (150‑cm) tape with an attached cardboard piece on one end, used to measure inseams.

Yard/Meter Stick

A 36‑inch (imperial system) or 1‑meter (metric) wooden or metal ruler used to measure hems, grainlines, flat surfaces, and yardage lengths.

18-inch clear plastic ruler

A 2‑inch-(5.08‑cm)‑wide ruler divided into 1/8‑inch (0.32‑cm) grids. A clear ruler is perfect for measuring grainlines and adjusting the pattern at the alteration line.

Sewing Gauge

A 6‑inch (15.24‑cm) gauge with a movable indicator used to measure areas that need a constant measurement, such as hem widths, pleats, and tucks. Many have dual metric and imperial scales.

Simflex Buttonhole Gauge

An expandable measuring device for spacing buttons and buttonholes quickly and automatically. Available through home sewing notions supply companies and in some fabric stores.

Clear Plastic Fashion Ruler

A see-through plastic ruler made by Fashionetics, Inc. Its see-through curved lines allow you to adjust curved lines; functions as a combination french curve and hip curve as well as a straight ruler.

Hem Marker

A device used to measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of a garment.

French Curve Ruler

About 10 inches (25.4 cm) long with an edge shaped like a spiral curve. This is used as a guide to shape and true edges of necklines, armholes, sleeve caps, darts, crotch seams, lapels, pockets, and collars.

Scissors

usually smaller than shears, approximately 3 to 6 inches (7–15 cm); handles are the same size

Shears

Blades are usually 4 to 8 inches long (10–20 cm) and made of steel; one handle is larger than the other

Buttonhole Scissors

Small scissors with sharp points especially designed to cut buttonholes.

Pinking Shears

Shears that cut a zigzag edge to prevent fabric from fraying, and also create a decorative edge on seam allowances. These shears are NOT used when cutting the first pattern and fabric layout.

Seam Ripper

A small, pointed device with a sharp blade. The point can be used to pick out unwanted stitches; the blade is used to cut a row of stitches.

Thread Nippers

A specially designed nipper that is useful for cutting stray threads and clipping small areas. Often used for trimming thread tails at the beginning and end of seams.

Trimming Scissors

Scissors that are usually 4 to 6 inches long (10–20 cm), with sharp points and used for clipping threads and trimming or clipping seams.

Rotary Cutters

A round-blade cutting device used for cutting straight seams with a ruler guiding the blade. Not recommended for cutting curves as they are not accurate.

Straight Pins

Stainless steel or brass silk or dressmaker pins with sharp tapering points that do not rust and are safe for use on all fabrics.

Hand-Sewing Needles

Long, thin steel shafts with an eye at one end. Needles are available in a variety of sizes and types. A packet of assorted needles is recommended.

Sharp Needles

These needles are available in sizes 5 through 10; they are all-purpose needles and can be used on sheer, fine, lightweight to heavyweight fabrics.

Between Needles

Shorter than sharps, these needles have a small, round eye and are meant for short, accurate hand stitches for tailoring and other handwork.

Crewel/Embroidery Needles

These needles have a large, oval eye and can accommodate heavy or multiple strands of thread. They are the same length as sharps.

Thimble

A lightweight metal (brass, rubber, or nickel) device with a closed top that snugly fits the middle finger of the sewing hand. It protects the finger as it pushes the needle through the fabric while hand sewing.

Pin Cushion/Pin Dispenser

Keeps pins organized in a convenient place. The most common is in the shape of a tomato and has a small bag of emery for removing snags or rust from needles or pins.

Beeswax

Usually in a holder with grooves. Pass the thread through to strengthen the thread and reduce its tendency to tangle.

Emery Cushion

A small bag filled with abrasive used to remove rust and snags from needles or pins. Typically attached to a tomato pincushion.

Chalk Pencils

Available in pastel colors, used to transfer markings from the pattern to the fabric; they are washable or evaporate with exposure to air.

Tailor’s Chalk

Washable clay chalk in thin shapes used to mark fabric at hemlines and other construction lines; also available in powdered form in a Chalkoliner or similar dispenser with a small wheel.

Tracing Paper

A washable, inked, double-coated paper, available in a variety of colors; positioned between the wrong sides of two layers of fabric, tracing wheel used to transfer markings from pattern to fabric

Tracing Wheel

A serrated-edge or needle-pointed circular wheel with a handle.

*Used with or without tracing paper to transfer markings. The wheel portion must be sharp enough to leave an impression, but smooth so it won’t snag the fabric.

Loop Turner

A device used to turn bias tubing or belts.

Safety Pins

Pins used for pulling cording or elastic through casings, or for turning wider tubing.

Thread Jamming

Thread is too thick, causes ripples along seam lines of garment

Core-Spun Thread

Cotton-wrapped polyester or polyester-wrapped polyester.

Suitable for most fabrics.

This thread has greater strength than spun polyester of the same diameter.

This is a matte-finished thread that melds into a seam well. Cotton-wrapped polyester can tolerate the high temperatures required for pressing cotton and linen fabric. Lightweight are often not available in home sewing supplies, but are available for industrial sewing.

Spun Polyester Thread

A strong thread made of short lengths of polyester fibers spun together. This thread has some give to it and should be used for stretch fabrics and wool fabrics.

Mercerized Cotton Thread

A cotton thread with a slight sheen, usually available in several thicknesses: 20 weight for topstitching, 40 weight for general machine sewing, and 50 and 60 weight for fine fabrics and hand sewing. Use this thread for stitching cotton and linen fabrics.

Buttonhole Twist

A thicker thread made of polyester or silk and used for top stitching, hand stitching buttonholes, and sewing on buttons.

Machine Quilting Thread

A lustrous, strong thread made of pure cotton or cotton-wrapped polyester. This is ideal for most hand sewing because it does not tangle.

Serger Thread

A spun polyester, lighter than general sewing machine thread, usually on a cone; can be quite linty or have thick spots—tolerated by sergers, but not recommended for sewing machines.

Round Shank Needles

Used for the industrial machines

Flat Shank Needles

Used for domestic machines

Universal Point Needle

The most common needle type, suitable for most woven fabric. It is available in a variety of needle sizes from 8/60 (for lightweight fabric) through 19/120 (for heavyweight fabric). Variations of the universal needle point include such styles as Microtex, for silks and closely woven fabrics, including microfibers, and jeans, for heavier wovens.

Ballpoint Needle

The rounded point on this needle makes it ideal for use on all types of knits or stretch fabrics. It is available in the same sizes as universal. Variations include stretch points for elastic and stretch fabrics.

Wedge Shaped/Leather Needle

A specialty needle used for leather, suede, and some artificial leathers and vinyl. Available in sizes 10/70 through 19/120. This needle is not for use on most fabrics.

Ironing Board

A sturdy surface with a narrow end, it is adjustable to various heights.

Iron (Steam and Dry)

A steam-and-dry iron with a wide range of temperature controls is the most effective tool for pressing the many varieties of fashion fabrics. A steam-generated iron, with a separate base, is the best type of iron to give a finished professional press.

Needle Board

A small, rectangular board covered with wire needles. This board is used when pressing napped or pile fabrics such as velvet and corduroy. The needles prevent the pile from matting or crushing.

Pounding Block

A smooth hardwood block used on fabric while it is still moist from steam, for making strong creases such as on trousers, collars, hems, pleats, and facings.

Pressing Cloth

A piece of cotton or muslin. The pressing cloth is usually dampened, folded, and placed between the fabric and the iron. While applying some pressure and heat from the iron, the pressing cloth will protect the correct side of the garment from shine and results in a clean press.

Pressing Mitt

A small, padded mitten used to press and maintain contoured seams such as sleeve caps and areas that should not be pressed flat.

Seam Roll

A small, cylindrical, long, firmly padded cushion, covered with woven cotton on one side and wool on the other. This is used to press long, narrow seams in hard-to-reach areas such as sleeve seams. The cotton side is used to press most fabrics, and the wool side to press woolens.

Sleeve Board

A small, padded ironing board with ends that are different sizes. This board sits on top of a regular ironing board and is used to press sleeves and other small areas.

Tailor’s Board

A wooden tool that tapers to a narrow point, used to press difficult-to-reach areas such as collars, lapels, and other points or corners.

Tailor’s Ham

An ovoid, lightweight cushion that is firmly padded and covered with heavy cotton on one side and wool on the other. Used to press contoured seams, darts, collars, and lapels. The cotton side is used to press most fabrics, and the wool side to press woolens.

Interfacing

maintain the shape of the garment and to add body to selected areas of the garment.