1.1 - Hair cosmetics

Cosmetic substances

• help in improving or changing the outward show of the body and also masks the odor of the body

• protects the skin and keeps it in good condition

• external preparations which are applied on the external parts of the body

• Hair

• Skin

• Decorative

• hygiene purposes (perfumery)

4 types of cosmetics

• Indian

• colonial

The word shampoo entered the English language from the ____ subcontinent during the ____ era

• 1762

• Hindi chāmpo

• Sanskrit

• chapatti

the word shampoo dated back to _____ and was derived from ______, itself derived from the _____ root _____, which meant to press, knead, or soothe.

shampoo

• It is a viscous cosmetic preparation with synthetic detergent used for washing hair

• Principal function: to clean the scalp; free from sebum and foreign substances

• makes the hair lustrous and good looking

detergent soap

used for washing hairs in the olden days, but has been replaced by shampoo

• Clear liquid

• Liquid cream

• Cream

• Gel

• Powder

• Aerosol (foam type)

• Special

7 types of shampoo

clear liquid shampoos

• shampoo that is a clear liquid preparations and most widely used

• made by using detergent of low cloud point

• may be transparent

Alkanolamides

_____ can also be used in preparation of clear liquid shampoos

Cloud point

temperature at which the cloudiness is first observed

pure product

evaluation for cloud point is conducted on the ______

liquid cream / lotion shampoos

modification of clear liquid shampoos

• glycerylmonostearate

• glycolstearate

Addition of opacifier such as _______, ________, to the clear liquid shampoo yields liquid cream shampoo

magnesium stearate

In preparation of liquid cream shampoos, solubilizing agents such as ________ is also used to dissolve the added opacifier.

cream shampoos

• These shampoos have a paste like consistency and are packed in a collapsible tube or in jars with wide mouth

• great use in hair salons

• alkyl sulphates

• cetyl alcohol

The paste consistency of cream shampoos is developed by addition of ______, also ______ is added, which serves as a builder

gel shampoos

these shampoos are transparent and thick usually made by incorporating a gelling agent (cellulose)

detergent

principal ingredient of gel shampoos

methyl cellulose

Addition of ______ to clear liquid shampoo and its subsequent thickening also gives rise to gel shampoo

powder shampoo

• shampoo that is available in the form of dry powder

• prepared from dry soaps, but nowadays dry synthetic detergents are used for their preparation

• prepared where addition of water or other solvent reduces the activity of the components, especially in case of medicated shampoo

• not used due to the difficulty experienced in their application

dry shampoo

• type of powder shampoo

• applied on to the head and then removed by the brush

• doesn’t involve the use of water

• usually preferred, when the hair are greasy

• formulation usually includes absorbents

aerosol shampoo (foam type)

• shampoo that is packed in aerosol containers

• additional propellant is included

• Shampoo comes out as foam when the valve is pressed

special shampoos

shampoos which are meant for special purpose

• medicated shampoo

• conditioner shampoo

2 types of special shampoos

Medicated Shampoo

• These shampoos contain medicinal agents

• treat disorders of the scalp or hair

• sebaceous glands

• scalp

medicinal agents added in medicated shampoo should not irritate the ______. It should also not sensitize the _____

antidandruff shampoo

most widely used medicated shampoo

Conditioner Shampoo

• These shampoos serve for hair conditioning

• clean the hair (and scalp) and keep them in smooth and lustrous condition

• prevent sticking of hairs

Quaternary ammonium compounds

• most conditioner shampoos are made of these compounds

• property of reducing electric charges between the hair and hair become lustrous easily manageable

• exhibit a bactericidal effect

surfactants

its main use is to to cleanse and to produce foam

• Anionic surfactants

• Non-ionic surfactants

• Cationic surfactants

• Amphoteric surfactants

4 types of surfactants

anionic surfactants

• These surfactants have good foaming property hence they are used as principle surfactant

• main ingredient of shampoo formulation

• Alkyl sulfates

• Alkyl polyethylene glycol sulfates

• Alkyl benzene sulfonates

• A-olefin sulfate

4 examples of anionic surfactants

Alkyl sulfates

an anionic surfactant formed when fatty acids are subjected to catalytic reduction forming long chain sulphated derivatives

• Lauryl sulfate

• Myristyl sulfate

2 compounds often combined and is most widely used because they give foam

Sulfates with lauryl chain

these types of chains are widely used when compared to octyl or decyl chain

triethanolamine lauryl sulfate

Previously, sodium lauryl sulfate was used but now ______ is widely used

alkyl polyethylene glycol sulfates

• These anionic surfactants exhibit good cleaning as well good foaming property

• are alkyl ether sulfate which forms water soluble sodium salt

• Solubility of this salt is greater than SLS, hence also serves as a solvent for non-polar ingredients

• low cost, widely used by small manufacturers

alkyl benzene sulfonates

• These surfactants are most widely used in the preparation of washing powder but not in cosmetics

• cause excessive cleaning, may lead to damage of scalp and hair

• may lead to hair fall and skin irritation

• have deleterious effects, still used for cleaning of greasy hair

a-olefin sulfate

• alkyl sulfonate obtained by sulfonation of linear olefin

• produces an excellent foam

• property of foaming is unaffected by sebum and hard water

• produces mild detergent effect without harming the scalp

• stable at both acid and basic pH, widely used to prepare low pH shampoo

• low cloud point, used to prepare clear shampoo

non-ionic surfactants

• considered as secondary surfactants

• not used to produce foam but used as foam boosters, viscosity inducers, emulsion stabilizers and opacifiers

• less foaming power

• good cleaning property, not used as principle surfactant

• Poly alkoxylated derivatives

• Fatty acid alkanolamides

• Amine oxides

3 examples of non-ionic surfactants

poly alkoxylated derivatives

• surfactant that are ethoxylated alcohols and phenols, block polymers, sorbitol ester (polyethoxylated) and polygyceryl ethers

• stable at wide range of pH

• have stabilizing, emulsifying, pearlescent and foaming properties

• available at low cost

• cause irritation to eye mucosa

• used as mild detergents

• impart a good rinsing property

• can be used in high concentration

• hydrogen (labile)

• polyaddition

• ethylene or propylene oxide

poly alkoxylated derivatives are obtained when ______ containing hydrophobic compound is subjected to _____ reaction with either _____ or _____

fatty acid alkanolamides

• these surfactants are insoluble in water due to their waxy nature

• added directly to detergent solution and dissolved by gentle warming

• monoalkanolamides

• diethanolamides

2 examples of fatty acid alkanolamides

Monoalkanolamides

a fatty acid alkanolamide made from long chain fatty acids

• solubilizing agent

• viscosity inducing agent

2 roles of lauric monoethanolamide in a detergent solution

pearlescent and thickening agent

role of stearic ethanolamide in a detergent solution

softening and hair conditioning agent

role of oleic ethanolamide in a detergent solution

foam boosters

role of cocamide monoethanolamide in a detergent solution

100:15

The ratio of detergent solution to the monoethanolamide must be _____

Diethanolamides

• powerful solubilizing agents

• available as low melting point solids or even as simple liquids

• solubilize the shampoo ingredients rapidly and more efficiently compared to monoethanolamides

Kritchevsky condensation products

shampoos containing high soap content and free ethanolamides

amine oxides / polar non-ionic surfactants

• obtained by the oxidation of tertiary aliphatic amine with hydrogen peroxide

• possess strong polar linkage between nitrogen and oxygen hence

• constitutes major group of synthetic surfactants

• water soluble and compatible with various surfactants

• added as secondary surfactant because of their conditioning, dam boosting and anti-static property

• Coconut

• dodecyl dimethylamine oxides

2 most commonly used amine oxides

cationic surfactants

• surfactants that contains positive charge

• used as both principle and secondary surfactants

• used in low concentrations because they are toxic to the eye

• secondary surfactants

• good foaming and partly cleaning properties.

• also used as principle surfactants in conditioner shampoos

• Alkylamines

• Ethoxylated amines

• Alkyl-Betaines

3 examples of cationic surfactants

alkylamines

• constitute a major group of cationic surfactants

• used in combination with hydrophilic surfactants in order to provide conditioning and antistatic property to the shampoo

• precipitate when combined with anionic surfactants

• used in the form of water soluble salts

ethoxylated amines

• nitrogen containing surfactants which are obtained by ethoxylated of long, chain alkylamine

• waxy in nature with low melting point and viscosity inducer.

• main function is emulsification (complete dispersion) and hair conditioning

• foam boosters

alkyl betaines

• class of cationic surfactants are obtained from N-dimethylglycine

• readily compatible with majority of surfactant

• secondary surfactants

• principle surfactant in baby shampoo and are often used combination with ionic surfactants

alkyl betaines

these surfactants have the following properties:

• Enhance the efficiency of foam

• conditioning and anti-static property

• viscosity inducing property

• Possess good stability

• Non-irritant to skin and eye

• Dialkyl ethylene diamines

• N-alkyl amino acids

2 examples of amphoteric surfactants

Dialkyl ethylene diamines

• surfactants that are soluble in water and compatible with surfactants

• used as detergents and to a lesser extent as emulsifier

• prepared as aqueous solution or paste into which remaining shampoo ingredients are added

• combined with anionic surfactants in order to minimize the irritation

Dialkyl ethylene diamines

• surfactants that neither enhances nor inhibits the foaming property of the principle surfactant

• most widely used an antiirritating agent when anionic compounds are used as principle surfactant

• possess conditioner and anti-static property as a result of which the hair becomes smooth and soft.

neutral (6.5 - 7.5)

pH of the shampoo prepared by using these Dialkyl ethylene diamines must be _____

• amino acids

• asparagine

important compounds of N-alkyl amino acids are derived from _____ and _____

• N-alkyl-b iminoproperonate

• b-amino acid

In N-alkyl amino acids, a compound called ______ is derived from ______ and it exhibits good foaming property, possesses slightly alkaline pH by changing the pH to acidic range thus, the manageability of hair is improved

asparagine

In N-alkyl amino acids, derivatives of ____ are well compatible with both anionic and cationic surfactants. It also possesses the properties like foaming, cleaning and conditioning.

• zwitterions

• amine

Depending upon the pH, N-alkyl amino acids change their nature, they become ______ at pH 6 and at neutral pH, they become ______

• sodium salts

• zwitter ionic

Solubility of N-alkyl amino acids is greater than they are in the form of _____, whereas the solubility decreases with _____ form

pH

foaming property of N-alkyl amino acids decreases with decrease in _____

cationated

At low pH, N-alkyl amino acids become _____

zwitterions

molecule with functional groups, one has a positive and one has a negative electrical charge

zero

net charge of entire molecule of zwitterion

Amino acids

• best-known examples of zwitterions

• contain an amine group (basic) and a carboxylic group (acidic).

foam boosters

• surfactants used in the preparation that also serves as foaming agents

• form rich lather foam, which is stabilized or strengthened by using this substance

• make the foam dense and it to remain for long duration

• fatty acid alkanolamides

• amine oxides

2 examples of foam boosters

2-5%

Foam boosters usually are added in quantity of about ____ to ____%

0.25 - 0.50 %

When fatty acids and fatty alcohols are added in range of _____ to _____% concentrations, they also act as foam boosters.

Germicides

agents which prevent the growth of micro-organism on the scalp

quaternary ammonium compounds

• Benzalkonium Chloride

• Centrimide

2 examples of germicides

Anti-dandruff agents

used to eliminate dandruff from the scalp

• Selenium Sulfide

• Cadmium Sulfide

2 examples of antidandruff agents

conditioning agents

• agents that improve the condition of hair

• agents that have the property of reducing electric charges of the hair

• bactericidal effect

• make the hair silky and shiny

• lanolin

• oils

• herbal extracts

• eggs

• amino acids

5 most commonly used conditioning agents

pearlescent agents

• usually added as adjuvants to the conditioning agents

• improve the conditioning property

• imparts brightness to hair

• make the preparation transparent or opaque (opacifying agents)

• Alkanolamides and coumarins

  • 4-methyl-7-diethyl amino coumarin

  • 4-methyl-5,7-dihydrocoumarin

• alcohols & phosphates (improve transparent solubilization)

4 commonly used pearlescent agents

sequestrants

• complex forming agents

• form complexes with metal ions like calcium and magnesium

• prevents complex formation between metal and a surfactant

• prevents the formation of film on the scalp

• EDTA

• citric acid

2 commonly used sequestrants

thickening agents

• added to make the preparation thick / viscous

• facilitates ease of handling

• prevent wastage during application

• methyl cellulose

• alginates polyvinyl alcohol

• polyethylene glycol

3 commonly used to adjust the viscosity of a shampoo

perfumes

• imparts good fragrance to the shampoo

• neutralizes the undesirable odor of the other ingredients of formulation especially surfactants

• obtained from natural resources

preservatives

• agents that have the ability to prevent the growth of micro-organisms

• added to maintain the stability of the preparation for a desired period of time

• Para-hydroxybenzoic acid

• Phenyl mercuric nitrate

2 commonly used preservatives

color (FD&C)

• gives pleasant appearance to the preparation

• must be water soluble

• should not impart any color to hair or scalp

• electrolyte

• sodium chloride

In preparation of liquid shampoo, viscosity adjustment is done by using an _____ solution. A solution of ______ is added subsequently with constant stirring.

glycol stearate

used as an opacifier in cream shampoo preparation

• anionic

• amphoteric

Addition of appropriate amount of _____ and _____ surfactants leads to the formation of gels

• safety

• antimicrobial property

Shampoos are evaluated for the following aspects: (2)