Fashion Fabrics Exam #2

The exam covers weaving and knitting sections of lecture, lab, and readings. It has multiple-choice and true and false questions, as well as visual and vocabulary matching sections.

What are warp yarns?

Run lengthwise to the grain

What are weft yarns?

Run crosswise to the grain

How do warp and weft yarns create a stable piece of fabric?

• They interlace (go over and under each other) at right angles to create a piece of fabric

• The more interlacements the stronger the fabric will be  

What is the tool/machine called that is used to make woven fabric?

A loom

Very Light/Sheer Weight

Sheer or Gauzy Fabrics

Light/Top Weight

Blouses, Shirting, Light Dresses

Medium Weight

Heavier Shirting or Lighter Bottoms

Bottom Weight

Slacks, Suiting, Lighter Jackets

Heavy Weight

Work Clothes, heavier coats, traditional denim

How do weight and cover affect final fabric properties? And appropriate end uses?

Heavier The Weight The Thicker The Cover	Lighter The Weight The Sheerer The Cover
More fiber  Stiffer, more structured  Better durability  Potentially more opaque or thicker (cover)  Good for work clothes, traditional denim, jackets	Less fiber  Softer drape  Softer hand  Potentially more sheer or thin (cover)  Good for light tops or dresses or for overlays

What is thread count?

It is the number of yarns per square inch (density) and the total of both warp and weft directions (count).

How does a high or low thread count affect end use and hand?

Thread Count  (more threads per square inch)	Lower Thread Count (less threads per square inch)
Smoother hand  Softer drape Better dimensional stability  Opportunity for better cover End use = more luxurious or formal/business attire	Coarser hand  More structure  Less durable  End use = more casual wear like t-shirts or light summer clothing

What is the difference between balanced and unbalanced thread count? What texture do unbalanced plain weaves create in the fabric? How does it affect drape?

Balanced Thread Count	Unbalanced Thread Count
Similar number of yarns/inch in each direction Equal yarn density creates a more fluid Drape	More yarns/inch in either warp or weft directions  Create ribs  Creates a more stiff/rigid drape

Which kinds of weaves are more likely to have higher thread count?

Satin Weaves

How does yarn type affect thread count?

The thinner the yarn the more threads can be included creating a high thread count which allows for a smoother and high quality fabric while thicker yarns require a looser weave which creates a lower thread count. 

Plain Weave: Construction differences and appropriate end uses? What are their ‘stand out’ properties? How could you identify one from the others?

• Warp and weft yarns go over and under each other (fabric looks the same on both sides)

• Varied End Uses 

• Can be causal or “cotton-like” (gingham, chambray, challis) 

• Can be formal or “silk-like” (China silk, organza, chiffon) 

• Equal Yarns in Warp/Weft Directions 

• Better Absorption 

• Low Resiliency 

• More structured

• Poor Luster

Twill Weave: Construction differences and appropriate end uses? What are their ‘stand out’ properties? How could you identify one from the others?

• Yarn Floats over 2-3 yarns before interlacing under (looks like stairs or diagonal ridges) 

• Hides and Sheds Stain better

• Very Durable 

• Better flexibility and resiliency 

• Used for herringbone or houndstooth patterns 

• Often used for bottom weight apparel or suitings (Denim or Chino)

Satin Weave: Construction differences and appropriate end uses? What are their ‘stand out’ properties? How could you identify one from the others?

• Yarn floats over 4 or more yarns before interlacing under 

• Create smooth fabric face 

• Fabric Face and Back have different appearances 

• Better resiliency (often due to high thread count) 

• Flexible/fluid drape 

• Good-excellent luster 

• Can unravel easily from cut edges 

• Snags easily 

• Often used for dresses, blouses. Linings, and lingerie

Satin

• Filament Yarns 

• Typically Silk or Polyester 

• Lustrous 

• Typically more fluid (can depend on weight) 

• Formal Wear

Sateen

• Spun Yarns 

• Cotton or Cotton Blend 

• More Subdued Luster 

• More Structured 

• Lightweight Blazers, Pants, and Dresses

Dobby: What kinds of designs can be woven in? (i.e., how could you identify it?)

Small Repeating geometric designs can be woven in with floating yarns

Dobby Flat Motif

Used for Lining (filament yarns)  or Shirting (spun yarns)

Dobby Textured Motif

Used for Pique or Waffle cloth

Jacquard Weave: How are they made?

Created on a jacquard loom to control each warp yarn individually. The yarns are only brought to the face of the fabric when they are needed to create a pattern.  

What is the defining characteristic of a jacquard? (i.e., how could you identify it?)

It is a fabric with a larger scale, intricate, curving design woven in and many have long floating yarns on the face or back that can snag or unravel easily.

Tapestry: Examples of jacquard weave fabrics and typical end uses?

• It is a heavy weight fabric with more structure so it is typically used for coats and accessories

Damask: Examples of jacquard weave fabrics and typical end uses?

• Uses both filament and spun yarns 

• Spun yarns are used in structured jackets, dresses, or coats 

• Filament yarns are used in formal apparel or accessories

Brocade: Examples of jacquard weave fabrics and typical end uses?

• Always uses filament yarns 

• Used in formal dresses, coats, vests, accessories, as well as trim or contrast fabrics

Extra yarn weave (spot weave): When and why are they used? What do they provide?

They have an extra set of yarns (separated from the warp and weft) that are woven in specific areas to create a pattern that has a distinctive front and back. Common fabrics included Dotted Swiss and shirtings. 

Pile weave: Cut

• Fuzzy ends on surface 

• Velvet

Pile weave: Uncut

• Loops on surface (can be both sides)

• Terrycloth

How does pile construction affect fabric properties?

Often bottom to heavy weight, warmer as it retains heat better with extra layers of yarns, softer hand, good resilience 

Velvet: Examples of pile weave fabrics and typical end uses? What is the difference between velvet and velveteen fabrics?

• Cut Warp (longer pile)

• Filament Yarns 

• Better Drape and luster 

• Distinct Face and Back 

• More Formal Apparel

Velveteen: Examples of pile weave fabrics and typical end uses? What is the difference between velvet and velveteen fabrics?

• Cut Weft (shorter pile) 

• Spun yarns (typically cotton) 

• More structured 

• Distinct face and back 

• More casual apparel and children’s wear

Corduroy: Examples of pile weave fabrics and typical end uses? What is the difference between velvet and velveteen fabrics?

• Bottom weight casual jackets, pants, and skirts

Slack-tension weave (seersucker)

• Two warp beams used: 1 set of warp is at regular tension and the other is under less tension 

• They crinkle or buckle to form a puckered stripe in the warp direction 

• Used for summer suiting, casual bottoms, dresses, and childrenswear

How does knitting create a stable fabric? 

By using needles to interconnect one or more sets of yarns by looping them together 

What is different about knit construction when compared to weaving?

Knit Construction	Woven Construction
Involves interlocking loops of yarn  Creates a stretchy flexible fabric that is often more breathable and wrinkle-resistant	Interlaces perpendicular threads  Produces a more stable, rigid fabric with less inherent stretch

Courses

Crosswise Rows

Wales

• Lengthwise column 

• “Whale Tails”

Stitches

• Knit Stitch - lengthwise column of V’s 

• Purl Stitch - Crosswise rows of bumps or waves 

• Tucks - create openwork areas in fabric (pointelle) 

• Miss/Float - stitches float on back when not create a pattern on the front

What is gauge and how does it affect end use?

The stitches per inch across the fabric. A higher gauge = finer loops (more firm, dense, structured fabric) and a lower gauge = coarser loops (softer, more flexible flowing fabric). 

What are common properties or performance issues for knit fabrics? How do they differ from wovens in those areas?

Benefits	Drawbacks
Faster production than wovens  Increased elasticity  Drapes well and is likely more fluid or limp  Better wrinkle recovery than wovens Can insulate well	Can be distorted or pulled out of shape easily during care  Can snag or pull more easily than wovens due to loops  Can run or “ladder” more easily

How does looking at both face and back of fabric help in identifying certain types of knits?

Helps to get a better grasp on what kind of fabric you are actually looking at because a Jersey will have knit “V’s” on the front by bumpy purls on the back whereas a rib or interlock will look almost identical on the back and face allowing you to know when you’re looking at one knit fabric over another. 

How are weft knits constructed differently than warp knits?

Weft knits are constructed using a single yarn that is looped horizontally across the fabric, creating a flexible and less stable material. Warp knits are made with multiple yarns running vertically, looping simultaneously in a zigzag pattern to create a more stable, less stretchy fabric. 

Single Knit (Jersey)

• Knit stitches on the face and purl on the back

• Fluid or limp drape

• T-shirts, underwear, light dresses, socks, sometimes a sweater 

• Edges curl when cut 

• Shape distorts easily 

Double Knit (Rib, Interlock)

• Made with two set/beds of needles

• Many are reversible - knit stitches on face and back 

• More stability and potential for structure 

• Wide range of yarns, fabric weights, and end uses 

Jacquard Knit

• Pattern Knitted in with different color yarns

• Can be a single or double knit

Pointelle

• Open work patterns made with tuck stitches 

• Typically lighter weight

Thermal/Waffle

• Has thermal retention

• Adds bulk through texture and extra yarn layers

Pile Knits

Have thermal retention by adding bulk through texture and extra yarn layers. (Ex: fleece, knit velour, knit terry) 

What are the typical properties, and therefore what are appropriate end uses of weft knits?

• One yarn (or set of yarns) that feed across the fabric in courses  

• Circular or flat production (single or double) 

• Better elasticity than warp knits 

• Susceptible to snags and runs 

• T-shirts, sportswear, underwear, hosiery, and baby clothes 

Tricot: What are the distinctive characteristics of each? How could you identify one vs. the other? What type of yarn is commonly used for tricot fabrics? What are common warp knit fabrics for apparel? Typical end uses?

• Fastest knit production 

• Finer (higher) gauge and more tightly knit 

• Made with uniform filament yarns 

• Knit stitches on face, and distinct horizontal floats on reverse created by underlaps 

• Used in lingerie, sleepwear, swimwear, and activewear

Raschel: What are the distinctive characteristics of each? How could you identify one vs. the other? What type of yarn is commonly used for tricot fabrics? What are common warp knit fabrics for apparel? Typical end uses? 

• Greater variation in design and texture through knitted-in pattern and openwork 

• Uses filament or spun yarns 

• Makes machine made laces, crochets, nets, some sweaters, and power mech for lingerie or athletics 

• It imitates traditional bobbin lace and hand crochet techniques 

• Allow for less expensive alternatives 

• Can have laid yarns interested to create more texture and pattern, including novelty yarns

Recognize the difference between a design motif that is printed vs. woven or knitted into fabric.

Printed designs are applied to the surface of the fabric, while woven or knitted designs are an integral part of the fabric’s structure, created by interlacing or looping colored threads