coastal environments

Constructive waves

These waves have a low frequency (about 6-8 waves per minute) and are responsible for building up beaches.

Destructive waves

These waves are high, more frequent (breaking at a rate of 15+ waves per minute) and are responsible for eroding the coast.

Coastal erosion

The process of breakdown and removal of rock and beach material along the coast.

Attrition

The process where material collides with each other and gets worn down into smaller particles.

Abrasion/corrosion

A process whereby waves smooth and polish rocks by friction.

Hydraulic action/pressure

This process involves water entering cracks in rocks and causing them to break apart.

Solution/corrosion

The gradual dissolution of soluble rocks, such as limestone, through chemical actions.

Transportation

The movement of material along the coast caused by wave action, salination, suspension, and solution.

Longshore drift

The transportation of sediment along the beach in a zig-zag pattern due to the action of waves.

Deposition

When material is deposited along the coast when the energy of the waves decreases.

Coastal landforms

Landforms such as beaches and cliffs that are formed by processes of erosion and deposition.

Wave energy

The energy generated from the movement of waves on the surface of the water.

Fetch

The distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction, potentially affecting wave height.

Tides

The regular rise and fall of sea levels caused by the gravitational forces of the moon and the sun.

Beach nourishment

The process of adding sand or sediment to a beach to combat erosion and increase its width.

Seawall

A structure built to protect the shore from wave action and prevent coastal erosion.

Groins

Structures built at right angles to the shore to trap sand moving along the coast.

Rip currents

Narrow, fast-moving channels of water that flow away from the shore, posing a hazard to swimmers.