Florida cosmetology state board (clinical)

thio-free waves

Perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine.

Hydrogen bonds

Very weak side bonds; that are the result of attraction between opposite electrical charges. Easily broken by water or heat. Reform as the hair dries or cools. Accounts for 1/3 of hairs total strength

Salt bonds

Weak physical side bonds (cross bonds) easily broken by change in pH; reform when pH balance is restored. Accounts for 1/3 of hairs total strength.

Substitutes for ammonia in permanent waving solutions:

Aminomethylpropanol (AMP)

Monoethanolamine (MEA)

ammonia-free waves

Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use. (AMP or MEA)

Glycerol monothioglycolate

Main active ingredient in acid balanced waving lotions. Primary reducing agent in most acid waves. Low pH

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are also known as?

Lye relaxers

acid-balanced waves

Permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

Side bonds

Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together.

keratin proteins

Long, coiled polypeptide chains.

Silicones

Special type of oil used in hair conditioners, water-resistant lubricants for the skin, and nail polish dryers.

When a hydroxide relaxer breaks the disulfide bond converting them to lanthonine bonds....

The bonds cannot be reformed with any other chemical treatment

True acid waves

-Have a pH between 4.5-7.0 and require heat to process.

-He process slower than alkaline waves

-GMTG is the active ingredient

pH level of Hydrogen Peroxide

2.5-4.5

Acid waves

Glyceryl monothioglycolate is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. It has a low pH and is the primary reducing agent in most acid waves. Most acid waves also contain ATG, just like a cold wave. Although the low pH of acid waves may seem ideal, repeated exposure to GMTG is known to cause allergic sensitivity in both hairstylists and clients.

Lanthonization

The process by which a hydroxide relaxer removes one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond.

Volatile organic compounds

Compounds containing carbon that evaporate easily.

ex.) SD alcohol (ethyl) in hairspray

Used in nail polish, base & top coat & polish removers

Ammonia

Colorless gas with pungent odor composed of hydrogen & nitrogen. Used to raise pH in hair products to allow solution to penetrate hair shaft.

amino acids

Carbon, nitrogen, hydrogen, sulfur, oxegyn

What is waving lotion?

Hair gel that keeps it in place during finger waving process

alkaline solution

A solution that has a pH above 7.0 (neutral) soften and swells the cuticle.

ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

Alkaline waves

also known as cold waves; have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat

Permanent waving

a two step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods and then hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

polypeptide chain

long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds

peptide bond

Bonds that connect amino acids.

Alkanolamines

Alkaline substances used to neutralize acids or raise the pH of many hair products.

Used in place of ammonia because it produces less odor.

low-pH waves

Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate; they have a low pH.

disulfide bonds

Strong chemical side bonds that can only be broken by chemical solutions

Glycerine

a sweet syrupy alcohol used as a solvent & as a moisturizer in skin & body creams

Aniline derivatives

Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.

A client with extremely curly wiry hair wants it temporarily straightened. Previously, she has had unsatisfactory results from thermal straightening. You should?

A hard or double press; involving 2 applications of the pressing combs on each side of the hair.

An acid balance rinse may be used...

To preserve the color in tinted hair

pH of 7

neutral

pH > 7

Alkaline

pH < 7

Acidic

Always store hydrogen peroxide in:

An opaque container in a dark, cool location

Both semi & demi permanent hair color affect the hair by:

Depositing pigment only

A flexible comb is best suited for?

Closed tapering at the nape of the neck using the scissors over comb technique

Elevation

The angle which you hold the hair out from the scalp when cutting

For a client with an inverted triangle or heart shaped facial type. A good hairstyling choice would be?

Close at the forehead, gradually increasing around the center, fullest at the jaw.

What percent of a curl does a soft press remove?

50%-60%

On-the-scalp & off-the-scalp lighteners have a pH of?

9

certificate colors are commonly used in

temporary color rinses

What is a soft press

It is accomplished with a pressing comb, press once on top of strand and once on bottom of strand removing 50-60% of a curl

Permanent Liquids

-thinner than cream or gels

-applied with bottle

-contain fewer conditioning agents and more ammonia

exothermic waves

Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing

What are compound dyes a combination of?

Metallic salt dyes & vegetable dyes

off-base curls

Thermal curls placed completely off their base, offering only slight lift or volume. 45 degrees

For hair that is 75% - 80% grey apply color that is?

One level darker than the desired shade

What type of relaxer is referred to as a no lye relaxer?

Guanidine

What kind of shampoo closest matches the ideal pH of hair?

Acidic shampoo

endothermic waves

perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood type hair dryer. Most true acid waves are endothermic

The volume of hydrogen peroxide may be reduced by diluting it with?

Distilled water

characteristics of over-processed hair

Curlier at the root straight in the ends

A shampoo with a p

H above 7 is considered to be?

Alkaline

Use thinning or tapering shears to

Remove bulk

The recommended sub partings when applying bleach is

1/8"

After a toner has been rinsed out and the hair gently shampooed and rinsed what should you do next?

Apply an acid conditioner to close the cuticle, lower pH and prevent fading

What is the name for the chemical reaction that occurs when H2O2 is combined with bleach or aniline derivative tints?

Oxidization

Test a hot iron on what?

Piece of tissue paper or a damp towel

After applying permanent waving solution, if the cotton turns purple or the hair gets excessively hot, most likely the client has previously used?

Metallic based hair colors

What is a reduction reaction?

the removal of oxygen from a substance and or the addition of hydrogens or electrons to a substance

Characteristics of under-processed hair?

Straight at the roots curlier at the ends

an example of a progressive hair dye is..

Metallic dyes

The direction of hair growth results from...

The direction of the hair follicle

half-base curls

Thermal curls placed half off their base; strong curls with moderate lift or volume. 90 degrees

The processing time required to form a permanent wave is affected by

Porosity of the hair

3 parts of a curl

base, stem, circle

Permanent Creams

-mixed with a cream developer

-applied with bowl and brush

-contain conditioners and thickening agents

A polymer substance would most likely exist in

styling gel or hair spray

What is the main ingredient in curl boosters?

Ammonium thioglycolate

In order to become active, a developer needs to be mixed with?

Alkaline compounds

visible hair braid

three strand that created with an underhand technique.

Backbrushing

also known as ruffing; technique used to build a soft cushion or to mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out

Velcro rollers

these can be used on dry hair only.

full-base curls

thermal curls that sit in the center of their base; strong curls with full volume 90 degrees or higher (on base)

How far can hair from the scalp be thinned?

1/2-2" depending on texture

Semipermanent colors that contain an aniline derivative ingredient require:

Predisposition or patch test

A powder lightener without buffering agents and conditioners could NOT be used for which of the following procedures?

-weaving

-partial highlights

-surface painting

-double process blond

Double-process blond

A patch test is required on permanent colors because the contain which type of derivative?

-aniline

-oxygen

-artificial

-hydrogen

Aniline

Which color products are available, but their use is discouraged?

Metallic and compound dyes

Hair color should not be applied to:

Synthetic wigs

For hair that is 30%-50% apply color that is?

One level lighter than the desired shade

When performing a virgin sodium hydroxide relaxer,apply the product...

1/2 from the scalp to the ends

Which colors coat only the surface of the hair shaft and cuticle, creating a physical change?

temporary

Temporary hair colors are usually applied to what hair condition?

Clean towel dried hair

After a permanent wave, what advice should the cosmetologist give to the client for at home maintenance to help ensure the perm does not quick relax?

-brush hair frequently during the first 3 days to even out curl pattern

-use a moisturizing conditioner

-use an acid balance shampoo followed by a acid rinse

In order to become active, a developer needs to be mixed with ammonia or:

alkaline compounds

Penetrating haircolor acts on the

cortex

rope braid

Braid created with two strands that are twisted around each other.

Ammonium thioglycolate causes the hair to..

Soften & swell

What factor along with the natural pigment and color level might influence a client's color service

Existing tone

Hair density does not always correspond to:

hair texture

The overlap (croquignole) technique produces which results?

Undulating waves and curls

Permanent hair colors are mixed with:

hydrogen peroxide

Which type of mixing bowls may cause hydrogen peroxide to weaken?

metal

chignon ( knot)

a large, smooth twist, roll, or knot of hair, worn by women at the nape of the neck or the back of the head . Like a bun

volatile alcohols

evaporate quickly and easily; for example, rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) and hairsprays (ethyl alcohol)

On which part of the shears does the little finger (pinky) rest?

Tang or finger brace