Oregon State Boards Cosmetology HAIR DESIGN

Trichology

Technical name for the study of hair

The main purposes of hair are

Adornment and protection from heat, cold and injury

Only the cells of the ___are alive.

Hair Bulb. The hair fiber or strand itself are not alive.

Hair Root

the portion of hair that is inside the hair follicle UNDER the skin's surface

Hair Fiber

Portion of the hair that extends above the skins surface

Papilla

is filled with capillaries that supply nourishment to the cells around it, called germinal matrix cells.

Germinal matrix

The area of the bulb where cell division (mitosis) takes place

Cuticle

The outer covering of the hair shaft made up of overlapping layers of transparent scales

Cortex

the second layer consisting of unique protein structures (gives hair most of its pigment and strength elasticity)

Medulla

the central core of the hair shaft, also called the pith or marrow (often absent in fine or very fine hair)

Sebum mixes with the body's perspiration to form the:

Acid Mantle

The Acid Mantle is important because:

it protects the cuticle, or outer covering, of the hair fiber and maintains the acid balance of hair and skin.

Hair pulled out from the roots will grow again unless:

The papilla (origin of hair) is destroyed

Keratinization

is a process whereby cells change their shape, dry out and form keratin protein.

Once keratinized, the cells that form the hair fiber or strand are:

no longer alive.

Hair is made up primarily of:

protein

Anagen

Active growing stage of hair

Catagen

Brief transitional stage of hair growth when all cell division stops.

Telogen

Resting phase of hair growth

In humans, the average rate of hair growth is:

1/2" (1.25cm) per month

Supercilia

technical name for the hair of the eyebrows

Capilli

technical name for the hair of the head

The diameter of coarse hair is:

much larger than fine hair

The cuticle is the protective layer of the hair shaft and is made up of:

a harder protein than the cortex

If a particular hair is 90% cortex and 10% cuticle:

then that hair behaves like the cortex *that means it has more elasticity and ability to be molded and reshaped.

If the cuticle makes up to 40% of the hair fiber:

then that hair will behave more like the cuticle and be more resistant to perms, relaxers or holding a set.

Melanin

A pigment that gives the skin and hair their color

What is produced by melanocytes, cells that exist among the dividing cells within the hair bulb?

Melanin

Genes

found in the human body and determine the amount and type of melanin produced by the melanocytes

Melanocytes

These rest near the hair bulbs nourishment center, the dermal papilla, and form bundles of a pigment protein complex called melanosomes

Melanin

is produced by melanocytes, cells that exist among the dividing cells within the hair bulb

eumelanin

is brown/black in color

pheomelanin

red/yellow in color

Albinism

Where there is a total lack of pigmentation in the hair and skin

Gray hair is caused by

Reduced color pigment, melanin, in the cortex layer of the hair

Hair porosity

The ability of the hair to absorb moisture

hair elasticity

Ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking.

Normal dry hair is capable of being stretched about how much of its length?

one-fifth 20%

Wet hair is able to be stretched to what percent of its length?

40% -50% of its length

Abraded hair

Technical term for broken hair

Wet hair is more fragile than

dry hair

Abraded cuticle

one of the most common types of cuticle damage

Fragilitis crinium

technical term for SPLIT ENDS

Trichoptilosis

Technical term for brittle hair or SPLIT ENDS

Pilica polonica

matting of the hair

Trichorrhexis nodosa

knotted hair, is characterized by the presence of lumps or swelling along the hair shaft. nodules

Canities

The name given to grayness or whiteness of the hair

ringed hair

When alternating bands of gray and dark hair exist

hypertrichosis

Also known as hirsuties; an abnormal coverage of hair on areas of the body where normally only lanugo or babyfine hair appears

Monilethrix

Beads or nodes formed on the hair shaft

Mechanical damage results from the incorrect use of

styling tools

Psoriasis

thick, crusty patches of red irritated scalp resulting from an autoimmune disease of the skin

Pityriasis

Dandruff; chronic scalp condition with excessive flaking, which accumulates on the scalp or falls to the shoulders, as well as itchiness, tightness and irritation of the scalp

Pityriasis Capitis Simplex

Dry dandruff; dry flakes attached to the scalp or on the hair which can appear translucent

Pityriasis Steatoides

greasy or waxy dandruff; oily flakes combine with sebum which stick to the scalp in clusters and can appear yellowish in color

Tinea

ringworm; red, circular patch of small blisters caused by a vegetable parasite

Tinea Capitis

ringworm of the scalp; enlarged open hair follicles that are surrounded by clusters of red spots (papules) hair is likely to break in area infected

Tinea Favosa

honeycomb ringworm; dry, yellow, encrusted areas on the scalp called scutula;may have peculiar odor

Scabies

itch mite; red and watery vesicles or pus filled areas caused by an animal parasite currowing under the skin

Pediculosis Capitis

Infestation of head lice on the scalp causing itching and eventual infection

There is an average of___ hairs to a square inch on the average head

1,000

Lanugo

baby fine, silky hair which is shed shortly after birth

Vellus Hair

Short, fine, non-pigmented hair found more abundantly on women

What is the average daily hair loss count

40-100 strands

alopecia

Excessive hair loss

androgenetic alopecia

The most common form of hair loss in both men and women

alopecia prematura

Refers to baldness that occurs early in life, beginning as early as late adolescence

Postpartum alopecia

temporary hair loss experienced at the conclusion of a pregnancy

alopecia areata

Sudden loss of hair in round or irregular patches without display of an inflamed scalp.

telogen effluvium

Premature shedding of hair in the resting phase

traction or traumatic alopecia

Hair loss due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting

the purpose of shampooing

To cleanse the scalp and hair by removing dirt, oils and product build up

massage is a scientific method of:

manipulating the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or stroking with the hands, fingers or an instrument

in general, a towel and plastic or waterproof cape is used for

shampooing, wet hair-cutting, wet styling, and chemical services

a neck strip is usually used to replace a towel

following a shampoo service if a haircutting service is going to be performed next

a cloth cape is used for

dry styling or dry haircutting services

shampoos with a high pH

can make the hair dry and brittle

for dry, brittle hair what type of shampoo would be recommended

an acid-balanced shampoo

soft water

Rainwater or chemically softened water that contains only small amounts of minerals and, therefore, allows soap and shampoo to lather freely.

hard water

Contains minerals, does not allow shampoo to lather freely

effleurage

Light gliding strokes or circular motions made with the palms of the hands or pads of the fingertips

petrissage

Light or heavy kneading and rolling of the muscles

Tapotement

A light tapping or slapping movement applied with the fingertips or partly flexed fingers

friction

circular movement with no gliding used on the scalp or with a facial when less pressure is desired

vibration

shaking movement; your arms shake as you touch the client with your figertips or palms

The head of a woman should be

1/7th of her overall body height

The head of a man should be

1/8th of his overall body height

Tall and lanky clients generally need volume and/or:

longer hair

average clients generally look best with:

a hairstyle that is short with volume on top

short and sturdy clients

need hairstyles with height and volume on top

clients with short necks should avoid

volume at the neck

clients with long necks need

mass and fullness around them

clients with wide shoulders need a hairstyle with:

a narrowing design line in the back to add elongation

clients with narrow shoulders need a hairstyle with:

design lines that imply horizontal lines or an A shape to add width

Most common facial shapes

oval, round, square, oblong, pear, diamond, heart

Which is the ideal face shape

oval

Oval face

This face shape is rounded, long and narrow rather than wide and short.

Round face

This face shape looks circular and tends to look short and wide rather than long and narrow

Square face

This face shape is short and wide, it looks angular with straight lines

Oval face shapes look good with:

almost any hairstyle, length or texture